Hi all,

Was driving around first time. The center console gauge that says temp just comes up to the first white line. Doesn't seem to move past that at all when driving for 1/2 hour or so.

Is this normal ? And if not.
How do I get it to work or function properly for what it's there for?
Talking 1973 dual carbs, 2056

Thanks!!!

Maybe try an infrared gun pointed at the sump?

Or pull the sender and drop it into boiling water

?

Could it be that the thermostat bellows part is missing and that the air flaps are always open and that is why that gauge is not working? It's not hooked up to anything?

Based on your type of gauge, if the needle were going a little past the very first/starting line, you could be approaching 180. I'm not sure how cold it is in your part of Canada right now, but I could believe that number is theoretically possible. If it is right at that line or below, ...then something is probably not right.

I'd make sure it is connected. First I would check the connection under the engine where the sender is....here:(in this pic, it may or may not have a cover on it as well)

Click to view attachment

If it is connected there, you might make sure that the gauge itself is connected and trace that back .....I THINK it is spliced into the harness a few feet from the console....but hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

When you say it goes to the white line ... does it move at all past the "key on" position?

To further explain what I believe @930cabman is telling you:

You can use a digital infrared thermometer to check temperature at the sump where the temperature sensor is located. Here's an example of one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Inf...1-IR1/313516785

These are also useful for a number of other things, such as checking for uniform brake temperature, checking for heat loss in your home heating ducts, etc...

You can pull the sensor and drop it in boiling water to see what the gauge reads. Depending upon the altitude it should read 212 degrees fahrenheit/100 degrees celsius.

This thread should help you with checking the thermostat bellows:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=350498

I am not running a thermostat and see my oil temps at 190 for a 20 minute commute daily. Sure it's proper to run the thermo, but in my experience I have had good luck without. These recent cool mornings my defrost is warm within a few minutes. An infrared gun is another tool to diagnose .....

Get flaps working 1st. Replace the thermostat bellows, cable, etc, if that is missing.

Missing thermostat and flaps that are always open are not good for the engine. They will extend warm up time significantly especially in cold weather.

- come on you know better than that. All those parts weren’t being given away because they were unnecessary.

Defrost temps have nothing to do with oil temps and proper warm up. Defrost air is coming off the exhaust heat exchangers.

190 degree oil is too cool for an air cooled engine. 190 is barely registering on oil temp gauge and is consistent with OP symptoms.

An engine running too cool is encouraging excessive wear in valve guides, piston slap / scuffing, and increased wear on bearings.

Click to view attachment

I have never been fond of lazy, but I often am guilty. Will be on the list for this winter.

Your engine will thank you!

@jackspratt

If that is where the needle is when the ignition is on you ate not gettimg any signal to the gauge.
The sender wire runs from the sender to a connector on the passenger side of the engine bay. If you ground the wire it should peg the gauge hot.
If you do not get the needle to move chevk for power and ground at the gauge.

Yes, when key goes on it goes to the first white line

Thanks, will check that area. It's 55 usa temp here on the west coast of Canada now.

thanks, ill look into this too

Mine works well (verified by infrared) and I have all the flaps etc hooked up. Takes a long time for the oil to get hot in cold weather. However, your gauge shouldn't move when cold and you turn the key on. Am I getting that right? Try grounding the wire and see how the gauge responds.

turn the key to on, ground the lead where it attaches to the main harness in front of the battery, and if it flips all of the way, try the same test at the temp plate under the car. If it does not flip the wire is broken if it does flip the temp sender has failed
usually it is the wire

Add the cover.

Is there debris caught on the face of the gauge. It looks like it. If needle gets hung up there it will not register accurately.

No, not that I can see

IIRC there is no movement when the key is in the on position.