I was in a bit of a hurry to get the car back together to drive before it got too cold. So didn't look at CV joints while the engine was out. It was warm this weekend and got some fuel systems parts together.
Drove around to prove it out... then the CV joint failed. I had wondered where the "clunk" when taking off was comming from.
So I was able to get the joints out with it in the car. Didn't have much trouble getting the spines out. But ended up splitting off the end to get it out on the driver side. The passenger side was easy since that's where it quit and the joint rode up the shaft.
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The stub axle looks almost new.
Now I'm wondering how it failed. Is this a normal wear pattern? I'm wondering if I did something wrong putting it back on the trans or something. Seems odd that it would ride up on the axle without something being terribly shreded.
Click to view attachment

I'll be separating all of them to see how many sets to order..

Spider is trashed. Looks badly spalled.

Outer housing worn with typical wear pattern.

Plan on doing all 4 CVs. By the time one is that far gone the others aren’t far behind.

Plan on replacing both wheel bearings now that you’ve pulled the stubs and allowed weight on the bearings. The rear bearing is a split race design and isn’t designed to have weight put on it without having pre-load across the bearing via the hub & CV stub being torqued up properly. The wheel bearing raceways will now be damaged and will be your next (longer term) failure if you don’t replace them now.

Click to view attachment

I never pull the stubs
Some do but you need the car on stands and can never roll the car without the stubs installed

Don't roll the car without the stub axles installed. It'll ruin your wheel bearings.

Just want to reiterate - weight alone is enough to damage the bearing - without rolling.

Weight alone will cause the races to separate and allow the bearing balls to move out of the race causing point loading and damage to the race and bearing ball.

Rolling it just causes the damage to go 360 degrees around the raceway instead of just where the bearings sit from weight alone. The bearing is not designed for this sort of point loading that is highly concentrated.

Noooo!!! We towed my roller without stub axle with just front wheels on a uhaul dolly.

Thanks all.
I would have thought wacking it with a sledghammer was something to damage the bearings rather than just sitting.

The graphic here helps me get why maybe: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...removal-11.html

Either way, I'll be putting 4 CVs and 2 rear bearings on order.

You are so lucky hub didn’t seperate out of the bearing - great way to lose a wheel.

Buy a lottery ticket - it was your lucky day.

That doesn’t help either - look up brinelling.

The entire half shaft is now a replacement item through Porsche. I bought both sides. It eased my mind but lightened the wallet

Anyone using these?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELH...htm?pn=PEL-HPAK

I had an opportunity to get a set of used ones. I am wondering what CVs they actually use.

PMB looked to have the most economical option per CV. I probably won't have any Genuine Porsche parts on this car.

I replaced my CV joints with PMB performance. You have to drill out 2 holes for the roll pins to fit.

Does nobody have OEM style replacements?

I replaced the axles as an assembly on my old '73 using the new genuine axles.

Be weary of the new genuine Porsche CV joints. When they started making them again they used the -4 part number, but used the -6 spline count for the shaft. The complete new axle assembly will bolt to the stub and trans flange, but the individual joints will NOT fit an axle splined for a 4 cylinder car.

That being said, the quality of the new genuine axles is very nice! They even came with the roll pins installed, were greased up, and totally ready to install.

EDIT: Adding a link for where I ordered mine from. Sunset Porsche has them listed on sale as of this post for $755.64 each. Complete Genuine Axle

I've heard (& read) that CV joints can be reassembled (if everything looks good) and installed reversed so the balls ride on the less worn portions in the joints' outer housings

Personally, I've never done it, but maybe someone else who has done it can chime in

I always swapped the shaft around on the same side making the inboard CV the outboard.

IIRC Ian has something on Youtube demonstrating the procedure