What is the minimum thickness of a Kennedy stage 3 clutch disk? Does this look like I should replace it while the trans is out?
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I has one of those

My thoughts are because you still have yellow patches that the wear is minimal. Kevlar is a very durable material.

Disk looks good but check the centre spline and make sure all the springs are still tight ,pressure plate is about half life due to wear on the fingers , pay to check shaft arm bearings and thrust bearing for any issues ,if all is ok use it all again,I would ,cheers.

Thanks for the replys!! I will reuse the parts. The new trans had a washer behind the ball, which messed up the clutch cable adjustment, which I think caused the pressure plate wear. I removed the washer, so its the same as the previous trans which didn't have the cable problem.
This is from my SBC car. All the bolts came loose from the stub axle with the heavy duty axles. I thought i broke a CV. Glad I checked the other side. All the bolts were also loose on that stub axle. Luckily only one bolt broke off and I was able to remove it with a screw extractor.

That v8 car had a bad TO bearing the day I rode in it, back during the Big Bear run. Explains the wear on the fingers.

@chris914n6
Curious how you could tell about the throw out bearing? I just got it back together today. The new trans i recently installed with higher 3rd, 4th and 5th had a washer behind the pivot ball and created a big mess with the clutch cable.. I pulled the trans and took out the washer. Now its the same as the original trans. The clutch disengages really close to the floor and I do not feel any free play. I will screw around with it some more tomorrow. The clutch pedal is even with the brake pedal. There's about a half inch of threads sticking out in the back of the clutch pedal arm. I am curious if I raised the clutch pedal, then it could go further into the floor and give me a little bit more travel.

Thanks everyone for the help!!

It made the noise. I thought it got replaced, it was like 5 years ago.

Clutch release spot at the pedal is done on the cable. Tighten it up, probably a 1/4 inch should do it.

sorry for the high jack, but what is the optimal point of engagement/disegagement?
If the clutch cable is clear to the floor, how far upon letting it come up should i be feeling it first grab? for me right now it feels like its only out an inch or 2, yet i only have about 2-3 threads at the end of the cable to be able to tighten this up. on a reent trip a month ago i had to get under the car and tighten it up as i couldnt shift even with pedal to the floor. I didint want to over tighten it so this is where i am now, . i was told i could also
take out or move the pedal stop to allow futher compression of the pedal.

any suggenstion/. - ps: , the cable tube does not appear to be loose

Normally for a stock 914 clutch you adjust the cable for 1/2" freeplay, by pulling the pedal towards you and back. You then have someone watch the fork move when you push the pedal down to adjust stop on the pedal board so you don't stretch the cable. This should make the clutch engage towards the middle to end of releasing the pedal. This goofy Kennedy stage 3 setup, to get it to disengage and engage with the pedal up, I have no freeplay and I think the throw out bearing is rubbing against the pressure plate which is causing premature wear on it. Its been awhile but I thought KEP used a special throwout bearing.