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orangecrate
I'm slow. I have a rebuilt engine I bought some time ago, maybe a year. I'm finally getting around to installing it and would like to prelube it before I even turn it over. Have'nt actually looked at it closely. How do you all do it? I'm assuming just get an old distributor and pull the cam drive gear and spin the pump with a drill motor or something . I have no Idea how the builder prepped the engine and REALLY WANT TO GET SOME OIL THRU IT AFTER SITTING SO LONG. Thanks Robin
914sgofast2
The distributor drive doesn’t drive the oil pump on a 914
technicalninja
Copied from another thread http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...61192&st=20

This is a way to pre-prime any engine...


I haven't had to try this on a T4 but on the very worst designed oiling system in the history of internal combustion engines this works GREAT!

Engine in question is the early "odd fire" 231 ci V6 that GM use in a bunch of stuff from the late 70s though the mid 80s.

You could change the oil and loose the "pump prime" on these.

Lots of engines were destroyed by poorly done oil changes...

Remove either the oil filter OR the oil pressure sender and apply oil under pressure into the engine.

We would remove the sender and install a hose we made up to a facet fuel pump (square box style). The inlet side of the fuel pump would get a hose that we'd put into a quart of oil. We would apply 4psi oil to the engine and then turn it backwards for 360 degrees which would prime the pump.

This was the only way that worked every single time.

Sort of a PIA but when nothing else would work this method did.

After the "set up" was created the time it required to do this was under 5 minutes.

I ALWAYS pre-pressurize a fresh motor in this manner after a build. Normally it's still on the engine stand out of the car.

After install I kill fuel/spark and rotate it with the starter motor until the gauge sees pressure.

If I can I fill oil filters before install during a normal oil change. Some designed do not allow this.
bkrantz
Another option: remove the spark plugs and spin the motor on the starter for several minutes. Ideally, the oil light will at least flicker. Then install the plugs and start up, but be ready to shut off if the oil light does not go out.
Ishley
I just did this. I have a hose installed in the oil pressure sender hole for a dual sender. Before I connected the sender I used a small catchup type bottle with a small tip. I filled it and slowly squeezed down two full bottles… roughly a quart. This forces oil into all the bearings and surfaces. It takes time. I’ve read you can also gravity feed it.
930cabman
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Nov 5 2023, 05:20 PM) *

Another option: remove the spark plugs and spin the motor on the starter for several minutes. Ideally, the oil light will at least flicker. Then install the plugs and start up, but be ready to shut off if the oil light does not go out.


agree.gif easy and effective

Might want to add an oil pressure gauge
MikeK
It doesn't hurt to remove rockers while pre-lubing. Especially with a new cam.
Plugs out, ignition disconnected, crank until the oil pressure light goes out or you have pressure at the gauge.
orangecrate
QUOTE(technicalninja @ Nov 5 2023, 12:55 PM) *

Copied from another thread http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...61192&st=20

This is a way to pre-prime any engine...


I haven't had to try this on a T4 but on the very worst designed oiling system in the history of internal combustion engines this works GREAT!

Engine in question is the early "odd fire" 231 ci V6 that GM use in a bunch of stuff from the late 70s though the mid 80s.

You could change the oil and loose the "pump prime" on these.

Lots of engines were destroyed by poorly done oil changes...

Remove either the oil filter OR the oil pressure sender and apply oil under pressure into the engine.

We would remove the sender and install a hose we made up to a facet fuel pump (square box style). The inlet side of the fuel pump would get a hose that we'd put into a quart of oil. We would apply 4psi oil to the engine and then turn it backwards for 360 degrees which would prime the pump.

This was the only way that worked every single time.

Sort of a PIA but when nothing else would work this method did.

After the "set up" was created the time it required to do this was under 5 minutes.

I ALWAYS pre-pressurize a fresh motor in this manner after a build. Normally it's still on the engine stand out of the car.

After install I kill fuel/spark and rotate it with the starter motor until the gauge sees pressure.

If I can I fill oil filters before install during a normal oil change. Some designed do not allow this.
Ya, I got off my lazy ass and went to the garage and looked at my factory manual. I'm gonna make something to feed oil thru the sender unit hole, then punp till I get oil at the lifters, turning the crank a bit at a time in the process. According to the oil flow diagram, that will give me the desired affect. Just exactly how I'm going to do that is TBD ,but that is the plan.
Dave_Darling
I do not recommend filling the filter before you start. You won't get oil pressure if you do that on a dry oil system, until you manage to squirt a bunch of oil up into the oil pickup tube.

Don't ask how I know.

--DD
VaccaRabite
Has the engine ever run since rebuild?

Zach
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