Full Version: Cooling Flaps
I am not sure my cooling flaps are operating properly. The cable connector stands straight against the spring but does not seem to move very far when pushed down. How much movement should there be? The flap mechanism is only a couple of years old and seemed to work OK. Is there a way to check position of the flaps without removing the tins? The car is running too close to the red for my comfort even for a 1976 with original type muffler and heat exchangers and I have had two thermostats overextend and "banana."
Assuming they are in working condition you should be able to see the flap bellcrank position (and test its range of motion) from the top of the engine looking from the drivers side. Just under part #36 in the illustration.
I am not sure my cooling flaps are operating properly. The cable connector stands straight against the spring but does not seem to move very far when pushed down. How much movement should there be? The flap mechanism is only a couple of years old and seemed to work OK. Is there a way to check position of the flaps without removing the tins? The car is running too close to the red for my comfort even for a 1976 with original type muffler and heat exchangers and I have had two thermostats overextend and "banana."
QUOTE(Jim C @ Nov 6 2023, 06:12 AM) 
I am not sure my cooling flaps are operating properly. The cable connector stands straight against the spring but does not seem to move very far when pushed down. How much movement should there be? The flap mechanism is only a couple of years old and seemed to work OK. Is there a way to check position of the flaps without removing the tins? The car is running too close to the red for my comfort even for a 1976 with original type muffler and heat exchangers and I have had two thermostats overextend and "banana."
Thanks. That's the "cable connector" I referred to. How much movement should there be? Perhaps I am imagining the flaps bigger than they really are and therefore expect more movement in the crank or connector.
If you're checking with the engine cold, there won't be any movement as long as the thermostat is in good condition. The thermostat holds them down.
When the engine is warmed up there should be a fair amount of movement as you push down on the lever where the cable attaches.
When the engine is warmed up there should be a fair amount of movement as you push down on the lever where the cable attaches.
Good to know. Thanks, Chris.
IIRC the thermostat fails in the open or extended position. So if it is collapsed, it should be good. You can put a heat gun on it to track movement. Start there and then see if your flaps move freely.
Thermostat failed. Have to wait for a new one.Click to view attachment
Is there no play in it now? If so that might explain the heat. If it had failed and somebody tightened down the cable in the failed state it would be just holding it closed with no movement possible.
double post
When installing with a NEW T-stat the "cable" will route under the roller wheel & be taut when attaching to the flaps rod. Note: the Rod must also be rotated down/away from impeller housing before securing, to allow its range of motion when the T-stat expands "slacking" the cable & closing the flaps.
Just finished this also, installing a new SS bike cable ($8).
Tip: first moved fine, about 60 degrees or so, then considerably less after a few cycles. Seems like the cable stretched a bit, so just lossened the torx screw, pulled the cable tight, and reset the screw. Now fine.
Tip: first moved fine, about 60 degrees or so, then considerably less after a few cycles. Seems like the cable stretched a bit, so just lossened the torx screw, pulled the cable tight, and reset the screw. Now fine.
QUOTE(Jim C @ Nov 7 2023, 03:23 AM)
Thats most likely your high temp problem as the thermostat hasn't failed in the fully open position , normally they do, when you replace it don't set it up with a tight cable ,they need to have some slack so the unit isn't strained when compressed (cold ) .
Set up and test with heat gun once you are happy it is right and flaps are fully open when the bellows is fully expanded you will be fine .
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Yes the bike cable is the way to go as besides the fact the rollers flog out on the center bush the vee in the base of pulley wears out also and the stock cable can jam for that reason,as the bike cable is a larger diameter and finds a better area to rotate on.
Many who don't run a thermostat don't understand WHY they are there , the cost new is up there so often avoided ,shame really as its a vital in good engine life .
There is a solution I found using a T1 unit ,they open 5 C earlier but don't see an issue there as better than not having one ,plenty on the Samba used for little money compared to new type 4 ones.
Cheers.
QUOTE(porschetub @ Nov 6 2023, 05:47 PM)
QUOTE(Jim C @ Nov 7 2023, 03:23 AM)
Thats most likely your high temp problem as the thermostat hasn't failed in the fully open position , normally they do, when you replace it don't set it up with a tight cable ,they need to have some slack so the unit isn't strained when compressed (cold ) .
Set up and test with heat gun once you are happy it is right and flaps are fully open when the bellows is fully expanded you will be fine .
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Yes the bike cable is the way to go as besides the fact the rollers flog out on the center bush the vee in the base of pulley wears out also and the stock cable can jam for that reason,as the bike cable is a larger diameter and finds a better area to rotate on.
Many who don't run a thermostat don't understand WHY they are there , the cost new is up there so often avoided ,shame really as its a vital in good engine life .
There is a solution I found using a T1 unit ,they open 5 C earlier but don't see an issue there as better than not having one ,plenty on the Samba used for little money compared to new type 4 ones.
Cheers.
Very helpful. Thanks!
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.