SO I went through some new clutch cables I had this afternoon. Interesting stuff because they were all completely different. Each end, tunnel cap and length varied.
I did not have an old cable to compare too. All diameters were + or - 3 mm

Gemo -4 was the shortest and largest diameter cable 3.02mm

Coffle Brand -4 was in the middle on size and length 2.98mm

Pioneer Brand -6 cable was the smallest and longest 2.95mm

last picture

Interesting

this interesting, i have been wondering bout this since i had to tighten my fairly new clutch cable 2x in 6 months, it was new this year and recently had to tighten it again.
also i replaced it due to the crimped on metal sleave that its at the tunnel came off last one, both are GEMO and i was considering getting one from porsche since someone recently said the /6 one is longer and thicker than the /4 one - is this true? and will it last longer, thicker might not be better necessarily, but a cable should not stretch that much i am looking at swapping it out again for the second time in less than 2 years!.

Phil,
The original -6 cable was thicker BUT it is hard to say with out getting one from Porsche.

Changing one now. The broken one is around .107 ish, the new one (Terry) is .125 ish. It's possible the broken one is factory.

Phil, if you're having to adjust your clutch cable more often than you think you should, it may be a symptom of the cable tube coming adrift in the center tunnel.

--DD

Between 2.95mm and 3.02mm we are talking 70 microns here, i.e. 0.003”… not a big difference really… Did you measure the same cable at different locations or angle to see the variations within?

Measured the cable on the raw ends, not plastic coating.

Guess the different lengths results in some people having to put spacers on the cable at the tranny end.

Running a Gemo cable now and seem to remember cutting about 1/4" off the pedal end to get it to fit without spacers.

Yes, that would explain the differences in some of the pictures floating around, different spacers and nut options and whether you can run a different trunion or not. Someone's answer to someone in this situation might be specific to you and your situation and may not translate to all situations.

I thought something like this would be easy.

IIRC, the original trunnion was plastic and long, with round "pegs" that fit in the throwout arm. The common 911 replacement one is metal and short, with triangular pegs. That one requires a spacer because it isn't as long as the 914 part.

The 911 was the version that everybody used for a while, because it is metal and won't wear like the plastic one does. Plus I'm guessing the fact that it's a 911 part also had some influence.

--DD

I am working on my clutch pedal right now and thought for sure my cable was going south as before....but it is not! Since I have a brand new pedal cluster on the shelf I am swapping my old one out with fingers crossed that my tunnel tube is intact.....how often does the tunnel tube fail and what are the symptoms? My current issue does sound like the pedal cluster has an issue and I sure hope so vs. trying to repair in the tunnel. How would you accomplish that anyway? I'm ascared marshall!!
gg

The original 914 6 cable is 3.5mm compared to the 4cyl ~3.0
I have Gemos in original packaging that have 914 6 part numbers but are 3.0mm
Has anyone here purchased a Porsche 6 cable recently ?
That could be interesting.
I've never measured length.
I've always used various bits at the throwout arm to gain proper
adjustment.

What about a Terry cable? Just measured mine at 3.04mm

Love these product shootout threads. Wish they could be archived Olin the parts vault thread.

I just used a Terry cable to replace a broken one, looking for a spare it seems as though Stoddard has one for $30. I ordered two.

Another issue is one I raised a few weeks before: how much slack to leave in. The spring in the pedal cluster produces constant pressure on the throw out bearing. As you tighten the darling little 11 mm nuts, you raise the pedal until it gets to the top of its range. After that, tightening the nuts will begin to move the spring on the pressure plate. I have reached the conclusion that we are always going to have some pressure on the throw out bearing. My clutch functions best when the cable is adjusted pretty tight. Just enough slack to avoid depressing the spring on the pressure plate.

You can get some idea of what's inside the tunnel here:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...nter_tunnel.htm

The last pic there shows the front of the tunnel. The tube there that has a small bracket that holds it onto the side of the tunnel is the clutch tube. If the spot-welds on the bracket fail, the tube starts moving around.

If you remove the gear shift lever, you can see the cable move side to side when you press the pedal down and let it up--if the tube is moving.

The bracket can be re-welded, either by cutting a hole in the top of the tunnel for easy access, or by drilling out where the spot-welds were that hold the bracket onto the tunnel, and doing plug welds.

People have also used U-bolts as clamps to hold the tube in place.

It is also possible for the rear tube to come loose from the firewall. This is most often caused by rust (Rust on a 914? Who'd'a thunk it?) and is more obvious if you look from the outside.

--DD

Dave,

Thanks for this reminder , i will have to take a look at it, i have not looked in the tunnel recently , not since lsat time the console all came out for update.
I hope this is not the case.

Phil

Exactly, I just got mine together and had things too loose, then too tight, now just right. Once you get it just right, she shifts perfectly.

Hey gang....anyone have any comments on the Cofle brand of clutch cable? I have one as a spare but now replacing existing which is messed up big time....I think it was a Terry...any comments on Cofle brand? My FLAPS says it is a very good brand and high quality.....what say you? Thank you very much!!
gg