I’m building a new place.
I will bring my four post lift and use it for stacking two cars now.
I’m considering installing a flush mounted floor lift in the “active” garage bay.

Use case is
Changing tires, brakes, suspension
Once or twice…engine removal from 911 and 914


Any first hand opinions on using this specific flush mounted scissor lift to do engine removals?

Check out ammo nyc detailer channel. His setup is cool and well used. Feel free to email Larry, he’s always responded to my detailing inquiries

They work great. Paul Sayegh flush mounted his before I bought it from him.

It’s easy to screw together some wooden planks to clear the scissor lift. I didn’t want to damage the concrete floor for a scissor lift.
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...lift-ramps.html

Michael / Cairo had one in his previous house. Lots of info on garage journal on how to do it and build threads of people who have done it. Biggest takeaway is to have the lift in hand to get dimensions for the hole. Don’t rely on manufacturer specifications on dimensions because they might not be true.

Mine, in the floor. Wooden cover on top to drive over and a 4 x 8 work bench comes out of the floor with a push of a button.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

It is the best money I ever spent in the garage. Made me wonder why I waited so long to do it…
Like Steve, I did not cut the concrete, I did the wood ramps. I wanted the flexibility to move the lift depending on the project, sometimes needing more room at one end than the other, based on the vehicle.

I had a BendPak mid-rise scissor lift which we installed in my garage floor of our Bay Area home (sold) when we did the garage remodel. Best thing we ever did - hands down.

We just broke ground about 3 weeks ago on a new garage, 2,000 sq. (40'x50') with a 14' ceiling. We will pour the floor with 4,300 PSI concrete and go 6" deep. We plan to install a 2-post asymmetrical arm lift, BendPak. Having a lift when you get older is the only way to go. I just am no longer comfortable sitting on the floor or kneeling on the floor to work on cars. This garage is big enough that we may also add a mid-rise scissor lift too.

Here are some pictures of my old garage:

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Cairo94507, your old garage looks great. Mark

Thank you Mark.

@Cairo94507 Oh my goodness dude. I almost wouldn’t want to work in there. Almost.
Nice job on the garage.

I liked the pop up work bench. Though at my house it would end up a pile of half finished projects waiting for parts, that goes up and down.

@shivers - Those controls are the panel that controls the lift.

very nice, dream garage !! I'm just laboring with my budget Quick Jack

Exactly how I did mine and it has worked well for several years. Only issue it does not lift quite high enough. It's a HF scissors. I have been considering a two post, but ....

If recessed in the floor you lose a couple inches

Which you can pretty much make up for by using thicker rubber blocks…

I don’t think so. While we use hockey pucks on the round pads of our two post lift, that’s only a 1” piece of rubber. I wouldn’t put 4 pucks or a 4” block on that pad. It would change the car/lift stability very quickly.

I have a “platform” mid-rise scissor lift similar to the Bendpak in my garage floor and use thicker rubber blocks without issue.

One of the U.K. “arm” mid-rise scissor lifts comes with a set of different height lift pad extensions. I agree; with that style of lift or a two post I wouldn’t just put a block in place between the pad and the car’s lift point.
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There os always this…. ????

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Mark, with mine in floor if I need more lift I use 2x6 six inch square, one to two. Reason, they fit over the round pucks and also to the seam welds....very stable in all four corners. Best, Mark L.