Full Version: spark plug
How important is the cylinder head? If very important, you might have to remove it to get the plug out without causing damage.
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Nov 25 2023, 09:18 PM) 
How important is the cylinder head? If very important, you might have to remove it to get the plug out without causing damage.
ok, thank you.
I use "pimp juice" or an essential oil on my stuck corroded fasteners.
Pimp juice is 1/2 Dexron III and acetone. Works great on ferrous to ferrous. Shake well before using as it separates.
Ferrous to alloy I use wintergreen oil. This is a health food store item.
Any essential oil should work so peppermint oil should suffice.
Drench your stuck fastener and leave overnight.
Pimp juice is 1/2 Dexron III and acetone. Works great on ferrous to ferrous. Shake well before using as it separates.
Ferrous to alloy I use wintergreen oil. This is a health food store item.
Any essential oil should work so peppermint oil should suffice.
Drench your stuck fastener and leave overnight.
When working with dissimilar metals like aluminum head and steel spark plug body - heat is your best friend.
Do the penetrating oil - pump juice thing 1st. If that fails . . .
Then use heat (lots of it). Because the aluminum head is finned and because aluminum conducts heat so well you will need flame - like MAPP gas. A heat gun isn’t going to be enough.
Heating the aluminum around the plug causes the hole to expand, breaking corrosion, and reduces the tendency to have the threads binding and galling.
Going to be a tough gig with engine tin in place / installed. But if the penetrating lube solutions don’t do it alone, heat will. Way easier to do with the head sitting on the bench.
Do the penetrating oil - pump juice thing 1st. If that fails . . .
Then use heat (lots of it). Because the aluminum head is finned and because aluminum conducts heat so well you will need flame - like MAPP gas. A heat gun isn’t going to be enough.
Heating the aluminum around the plug causes the hole to expand, breaking corrosion, and reduces the tendency to have the threads binding and galling.
Going to be a tough gig with engine tin in place / installed. But if the penetrating lube solutions don’t do it alone, heat will. Way easier to do with the head sitting on the bench.
Acetone/ATF mix is good, but only mix up what you need as the acetone evaporates fast. The best penetrating spray I’ve found is SeaFoam Deep Creep. I’d soak it for a few days. For future reference milk of magnesia is good anti seize for plugs.
Being this engine sat outside for years, does the crankshaft turn? A guy gave me a type 4 engine that sat outside and when I removed the heads the pistons were seized in the bores. Not even worth using for a boat anchor.
QUOTE(Geezer914 @ Nov 26 2023, 09:26 AM)
Being this engine sat outside for years, does the crankshaft turn? A guy gave me a type 4 engine that sat outside and when I removed the heads the pistons were seized in the bores. Not even worth using for a boat anchor.
I have purchased these before and have found there are not many salvageable parts.
QUOTE(930cabman @ Nov 26 2023, 03:19 PM)
QUOTE(Geezer914 @ Nov 26 2023, 09:26 AM)
Being this engine sat outside for years, does the crankshaft turn? A guy gave me a type 4 engine that sat outside and when I removed the heads the pistons were seized in the bores. Not even worth using for a boat anchor.
I have purchased these before and have found there are not many salvageable parts.
Some great information/options.
I will try and see what happens.
My friend/mechanic had one of these sitting outside for 10 years,
brought it in the shop changed the fuel and some other bits
and started the car, and after a few minutes was idling normal.
Maybe i will be lucky,but 4 years makes a big difference.
thank you all for your input.
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