I have one starting to make that sound and so it's time to do them all. Are there any special tools that are required to do the rears? Or for that matter the fronts?

Thanks as always for your help!

You can do a whole lot with some 1/2” all-thread, some nuts, washers, and appropriately sized disks from an inexpensive bearing press kit.

Just installed a couple this past wknd.

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Fronts are old school with replaceable wheel bearing races pressed into 1 piece rotor/hubs.

Only thing that's strange is it uses an allen keyed pinch bolt instead of a cotter pin to lock adjustment. 6mm I believe...

Rears are bang out with slide hammer, press bearing out of control arm, presse bearing back into control arrm, press hub into bearing. Bearing has a 4 bolt retainer plate holding into control arm. My 75 was pretty tight coming apart. Big hammer probably would not have worked.

I removed the control arm/hub unit from the car. This leads to more parts...

Fronts are gravy

Rears not so much...

Fronts are easy. The rears are a pain to press out. There was lots of cursing.
I wasn't able to bang them out and finally made a 'tool' using all thread and an assorted collection of washers and such to press them out. It still wasn't an easy task. I'll upload a picture of the 'tool' later in case it might help.

I also replaced them without removing the trailing arms. Thankfully, installing the new bearings was super easy. I froze them over night and they slipped right in without any effort.

http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm


This works great.

Rear bearings are not too bad to replace the bearings. I tapped out the hub from the bearing then tapped out the bearing.

To replace the new bearing, I froze the bearing and heated the rear swing arm and the bearing dropped right in. Then heated the swing arm/bearing and froze the hub. Using a 1/2 all thread just pulled the hub onto the bearing. A couple of pictures in my thread below.


Spoke's Rear Bearing Repacement

I did both over the winter on my BB. Fronts just need a simple bearing replacement kit. I removed the trailing arms on mine because I wanted to do the bushings as well. Bought a cheap Harbor Freight press and that made everything fairly simple. Ian Karr's Youtube videos were very helpful to me throughout my suspension restoration.

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There a some helpful videos on YouTube from Ian Karr and PMB Performance for both front a rear.

The first one I did (1980), the biggest problem I had was getting the stub axle out of the hub. It was really stuck. I gave the cup style bearing tool that makes removing and installing on the car easy. I’ve probably done 30-40 sets of rear bearings over the years.

Doing the rears on the car saves you from needing a rear alignment

Pulling the swing arm is easier. And allows you to address suspension bushings if you want…, but requires a new alignment also

One thing I found out with my car is,

If you take the CV axle with stub out of the car and then roll it any distance (40 feet for me) the hubs will "pop out" by themselves!!!

I was very relieved to get it back on my lift before they FELL out!

If you are having trouble getting the hub to release from the bearing, try putting the wheels back on and rolling it around.

Probably just loosening the axle nut a few turns will work fine.

My car had rotors but no calipers on it when it did its trick.

Hubs were nothing to remove after they released by themselves.

Got a tip for drive axle stuck into hub as well.

Pimp Juice, 50/50 DexronIII/acetone and time.

If I wait overnight, I've never had to fight one...

They come apart like they were "buttered".

Pimp Juice will damage plastic and paint.

Like jhynesrockmtn said, buy, beg, or borrow a hydraulic press for the rears. Every other way is, um, cheating.

My trailingarms are out, blasted, epoxycoated and painted... struggling to get those Prekom bushings in. Have ordered the 914 rubber ones which are hopefully better than the rubber prekom ones. I have a press but with the last push the bushing gets pushed out. grrrr a pain.

914 rubber has shipped them with regular post on 28th november... still waiting - postal mail is sooooo slow.

Once I have them I hope installation goes smooth(er)... new bearing and new discs are waiting on the shelf.

rgds
Dax

The epoxy coat MIGHT be causing your issues.
Powder coat ALWAYS causes issue as it is thick enough to change tolerances.
The 914rubber rear bushings appear to be on the lose side to me and might solve your problems just fine.
I always keep "coatings" out of bearing bores and rubber bushing housings. Too much BS in the past. Some powder coat is damn near impossible to remove!
The epoxy coat might be thin enough to not be an issue but if you still have trouble after the 914rubbrer parts that is where I'd look first...