Hi all,
This is not what I was expecting when I took the rear suspension out to inspect. Are these some sort of plastic bushings?
TIA
Pat

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Yea. Lots of different aftermarket bushings (and homage ones in a lathe) were made over the years.

@mepstein , Thanks!
It swings very freely. and it has no play in it. I ordered some new rubber bushings prior to this, but I really don't know if I want to change them.
Pat

edit:that was the right side. The left side has a wallowed out hole in the suspension console. I have to ponder this.

That’s a common issue and the repair has been detailed on this site.

thanks again!

After pondering the suspension console holes and their elongation, I seem to have a few options:
1 ignore it
2 find or build a jig and make new bushings in my lathe
3 put in new suspension consoles

FYI

Part of the reason your console holes are wallowed out is due to the Delrin bushings. Those bushings DRASTICALLY increase loads into the body vs rubber bushings.

You might be able to correct the ears by simply welding the holes?

You don't need a new console, you can fix the oval holes fairly simply.

I did this with my 914 race car. Of course the ovals might have happened after I filed the console holes to get more negative camber. Which might have been, um, not quite legally approved.

Anyway, it is easy to weld the long side of the oval hole and drill/file to restore the round hole.

I think I’ll make some hat bushings from some 3/4 steel tube, fix the out of round with a uni-bit, and weld in the hats. That should work.

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I would think about welding the holes up except my eyesight has gone bad in my old age and my welding is not as good as it used to be. Plus, it’s harder to drill when it’s been welded.

So, I’m guessing that the rear suspension bushings are anchored to the trailing arm and not the shaft. I’m also guessing the only way to get the old bushings out is to press them out?

I managed to get one suspension console drilled to 3/4”. Now to weld in the little 3/4 washers I made.

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I made some hat bushings for the drilled out holes, 3/4 od x 14 mm id. I made them out of 4130. Anyone know what alloy of steel the suspension consoles are? I am guessing some sort of low carbon steel. The thickness is like 5.5 mm where the carrier meets the consoles. Now, I need to weld them in.

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Left rear trailing arm was damaged once, but I think it is ok and will align just fine. Looks like the car was hit once: understeered into a wall, left front, and left rear followed. The damage was very slight. My guess is that reinforced trailing arms would compromise the suspension consoles if this happened again.

I ordered new pivots from 914rubber, which are some sort of stainless, and solid. I am hoping no galvanic corrosion occurs with the 4130 hat bushings I made. I am contemplating welding up the ends of the old pivots, and turning them back down to 14 mm in the lathe. le in the way. I’ve also put in new rubber bushings, and pressed out the Delrin bushings.

There is very little information available for the rear suspension structures for a street car. Race cars are different, probably due to the high maintenance requirements for racing. My new 100 lb Weltmeister springs are 2.5” longer than my old springs, so I’m guessing where to put the bottom support ring on the shock. Anyone know the free length of a stock spring?

Next is to do the front suspension before I put the gas tank battery back in. I can’t wait to see what that looks like.

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Can’t get at the steering coupler with that modu.

Trailing arms are back in…no more play! Rubber bushings and new 914rubber pivots. The front still has delrin in the arms. And they swivel freely.

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