https://www.facebook.com/reel/2670364306449762

Interesting

Alert: I’m always a cynic.

Great way to make poorly crimped butt connections even harder to troubleshoot and fix.

Remind me again, what problem does this solve?

On the other hand - it is an opportunity to buy a new tool.

I like the concept but could get crowded, if putting several connections in a tight space or corner. I'd def wear a thermal glove on that one hand...if you have ever experienced a hot glue gun !

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Damnit. I was just starting to get good at butt connections. Now I need a new tool.

That's total BS IMHO. Here's how you do it, followed by soldering & shrink tubing.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice

Yup.

That's a cool replacement for a basic butt splice (could be handy to have a screw hanger) but I much prefer the Western Union twist/solder/heat shrink for important stuff that I never want to have to look at ever again. Or, better yet, re-run the whole wire so there's not a junction.

I cannot express enough distaste for crimped butt connectors. I will use them at times, while holding my nose. But if I want it done right...

I've used that for decades.
I was calling it the wrong name. I called it A&P or NASA style.
They just appropriated it from someone else!

I've tested three splice spans (20,16,14) for both resistance and failure.
No difference in resistance on a Fluke 87 and they never failed at the splice when the wire was shock tested to breakage.

In 30+ years I've never had to re-do a splice done this way.
For the last 8 years I have been using type 2 heat shrink with the glue lining.

Once you get "good" your spice will look like you just added heat shrink to a wire.
Almost no diameter change.

I have been doing western union splices for years. If possible, I prefer not to have a splice. But it is not always possible.

This appears to be a waterproof splice that would hold up well. And that can be used without the metal crimp connector, just use a western union splice, solder , then put it in their contraption and you have a waterproof junction. I can't see heat shrink being waterproof.

I saw the new connectors with solder and heat-shrink in one. Just need to wind wires and hit it with a heat gun to melt the solder and heat-shrink in one step.

That seems like a better solution

I didn't take that they were claiming it's a "connector". Rather that it makes waterproof whatever sort of splice has been made.
I will say that hanger idea may have some handy applications.
But wiring-wise, I'm good with what I've been doing: crimp, DR-25 heat shrink, SCL for sealing, cable ties to secure things.
Now get off my lawn!

I've had to make similar repairs in the car due to bad factory workmanship & rodents. I remove a full 1" of insulation. I use a thermal insulation stripper. No cut or nicked strands. CW twisting for both bare wire strands & junction. All of the Porsche wiring thus far has used CW strand twisting. Rosin core solder & shrink tubing. I also use wire from an old harness, if necessary, & run whatever printing is on the wire in the same direction as what's in the car. This repair took several hours. This is hard work IMHO. CTTOI, in my 40 years of electronics work, I've only once encountered CCW strand twisting. Whatever.

Bingo Clay. Add to that it looks a damn site better than heat shrink tube. Yes, I use the Marine type but this doubles up your bet against corrosion or a leak. More especially for the one who is not well versed in electrical connections. This type seal will also will end the conversation about solder joints breaking from vibration/flexing. It would surprise me if someone looked in the engine bay and complained about one of these. I remember when they came out with PVC pipe. I was a kid and the old timers were screaming "I wouldn't use that shit if they paid me!"

I want You doing all my connections!

Your wiring harness workman ship is the best ever ever seen from an “amateur”. Right tools, right techniques.

@tygaboy .

Whe I did the Microsquirt project, I wrote:

I wanted to avoid -- if not outright eliminate -- butt connecting or splicing wires; everything should terminate inside a pin housing.

I also wrote:

oof. Had I known in advance how much brainpower and effort this was going to take...let's just say it was a lot of work.

I hate farked up wiring. Really, I do.

That was a TON of work. But I'm hoping I won't have to do it again.

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Please provide more information; brand & model?

Here you go. There aren't any labels on it. It's made by Ungar. I found it on eBay.

I thought is was rule of thumb not to use solder joints in a vehicle because of the flexing and that only crimped joints should be used.

About the waterproof hot melt method that looks like it would be good for outdoor applications. I have lighting around my pond and the connections are exposed to the weather and oxidize and tarnish easily.

Between the Western Union style splice, soldering, & shrink tubing, I don't think vibration is an issue. I've never had any problems whatsoever over several decades. If using a spade lug connector, lets say, you don't want to tin & then crimp because the tin solder will flow or deform with time & the connection will loosen. You want to crimp first & then flow solder into the crimp joint & then use heat shrink tubing. This is how Mercedes does it.