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Full Version: Weltmeister sway bar = rattle trap
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cha914
Ok, I have a 21mm welt sway bar up front that the PO had in the car. Before my last big trip ,MUSR 6, I upgraded the droplinks to the adj welt jobbies and I took the bar out and relubed the bushings and it quited down for quite a while.

However, after ~600+ miles of OK roads and more pounding here in Austin, it is making more noise than ever. In steady corners its quiet, sharp ones I hear a crack and then its good, and on bumpy roads it is horrible....crack, crack, pop, pop...etc

When I took the bar out the last time I noticed that the thrugh body bushings allowed the bar to move side to side quite a bit (like 1inch plus) so I have some new bushings that are stepped and will hopefully hold the bar in the center:

user posted image

Also, it seems like one of the heim joints on the droplinks has some play in it and has got to be making some noise, these things have maybe 2 - 3000miles on them, now I know they probably arn't the best, but this seems a little soon. What heimjoints do you guys like for replacements, where do you buy them from? or are heimjoints always goinig to be this loud?

Finally, I just got a new valance and want to attach with Dzus fastiners, were is a good place to get enough to do 6 fastiners without going broke?



And if you are still reading at this point...you rock beerchug.gif

Tony
ArtechnikA
QUOTE (cha914 @ Aug 21 2005, 04:01 PM)
Finally, I just got a new valance and want to attach with Dzus fasteners, were is a good place to get enough to do 6 fasteners without going broke?

i got my Dzus fasteners from Pegasus; a place to start.

for metric rod ends, Hirschmann are good; for American sizes, Baker is a good name, or just go with a premium rod end from McMaster-Carr...

as for the creaking - almost any non-lubricated plastic is going to do that...
cha914
Problem is these are lubed...and its not a creak, its a crack (sounds like metal to metal hit, not bushing creak), I figure most of the noise is either coming from the bar moving side to side or the loose heim joint has enough play crack as it moves from one extreme to the other?

I know alot of people are running these bars...you just put up with noise, or are they quiet for you?

Thanks Rich...will check with pegaus and others...

Quick question about dzus fasteners assembly... for the valance, I want the spring loaded tabs attached to the valance itself, then on the body I just need to drill a hole and rivit the spring on the back side of the hole and thats it? or am I missing a piece?

Thanks,

Tony
SirAndy
QUOTE (cha914 @ Aug 21 2005, 01:46 PM)
and its not a creak, its a crack (sounds like metal to metal hit, not bushing creak

i have the same thing. it's hitting the gas tank ....

wink.gif Andy
ArtechnikA
QUOTE (cha914 @ Aug 21 2005, 04:46 PM)
Quick question about dzus fasteners assembly... for the valance, I want the spring loaded tabs attached to the valance itself, then on the body I just need to drill a hole and rivit the spring on the back side of the hole and thats it? or am I missing a piece?

i think you've got it.
cha914
Rich, thanks again, just wanted to be sure before I ordered a bunch of stuff...now I just need to measure how long the fastners need to be...

Andy, are you serious about the bar hitting the tank? How the hell is that happening?
SirAndy
QUOTE (cha914 @ Aug 22 2005, 07:55 AM)
Andy, are you serious about the bar hitting the tank? How the hell is that happening?

if yours is a stock bar, it shouldn't. if someone else installed it later, they might have installed in just a bit off-center.
the clearance between the bar and the tank is *tight* and the bar can flex a bit.

in my case, the bar is a bigger OD than stock and when i removed the tank, i could see the marks where it was hitting ...
sad.gif Andy
TravisNeff
I have/had the same problem too with the gas tank. You can loosen up the strap at the top of the tank and jimmy the tank and rubber mounts around a bit to give yourself a little more clearance. However, there is not a lot of room at the top of the tank and the front lid.
cha914
Damn, never thought it could be hitting the tank, I will have to check that clearance. Its a 21mm bar and the PO installed it, so no telling...

MartyYeoman
I had a lot of noise also.
I tracked it down to a loose fit-up between the rod end and arms.
Filing new surfaces onto the arms quieted them right down.
Adjustable drop links also help to remove binding.
Get somone to sit in the driver's seat for you when you adjust them.
I also replaced the gas tank felt pads with sorbothane (.125" thick) from McMaster-Carr. (8514K61)
The stuff works great and is available in various thicknesses. Good for tank clearance adjustments.
Joe Ricard
Replace your body bushings they are worn and allowing the bar to rattle. Or do it the cheap bastard way like me and pull the bushing and wrap the bar with aluminum tape till the thing fits snug. grease it and stick it in.
IronHillRestorations
QUOTE (SirAndy @ Aug 22 2005, 10:51 AM)
in my case, the bar is a bigger OD than stock and when i removed the tank, i could see the marks where it was hitting ...
sad.gif Andy

You can cut a piece of hose (a little smaller OD than the bar) in a spiral along the length of the hose, and wrap it around the bar to give it some cushion.
Brando
I've got an adjustable 21mm welt up front... No creaks bumps or bangs. The heims and everything are good. What kind of lubrication did you use? Silicone or graphite based? I've found better creak and bind-reducing results with graphite-moly mixes. If the bar was installed right you shouldn't have clearance issues with the gas tank. To raise the tank up a bit, you can move those big rubber spacers on the sides of the tank around. Set them down further and the gas tank will sit up higher, then strap it down.
flesburg
I have been running big weltmeister bar for years with heim joint adjustable drop links.

We had a problem a few years ago. The sheet metal around the mount points in the unit body tore itself loose, and mad some noise while doing so.

We fish plated the area with a "big" plate extended along the spot welds. Check your inner fenders, and you may find the metal tearing from fatique. It pops as it tears. I did not find my problem until it was about 3/4 of the way torn loose.

The bar and drop links are still working fine.
cha914
YAHHOOO... the thing rides like a caddie smilie_pokal.gif ok...maybe a really stiff caddie with a racing suspension wink.gif

Seriously, it came down to a combination of problems. First, one of the heimjoint had really started to fail, it probably had 1/16 - 1/8 of movement between the ballbearing and the housing. Next my bushing were not holding the bar well and allowing it to slide side to side. And finally, I found that sice the PO had removed the hood springs so any small bumps would make them rattle (I thought it was the door hinge rattling for the longest time). I secured the hinges for the time being so they wouldn't rattle, the camp shocks are still on the to-order list.

Soooo, new steped bushings from pelican (shown above), and RacerPartsWholesale ROCKS, very good prices on the rod ends, and dzus fittings, and I ordered sunday night and got the parts wed afternoon beer.gif

This morning was the first drive in the car after these changes, and it is a HUGE difference, quiet and smooth...

Thanks again, for all the great ideas!

Tony driving.gif
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