i run 20W-50 oil....

when i turn the engine over, it kinda sounds like there is no oil going to the cam until i start driving and the car starts warming up. (i remember the sound on my 2.0 when i would first start the car).

is 20W too thick? or am i looking at cam problems later?
the sound kinda goes away when the engine gets warmer...sounds like rod knock when cold and a click when hot.

haven't been able to pull another person for the timing check, but does the timing affect the AFR for my progressive?

Does anybody have any 1.7 parts...I have a complete 2.0 that I *NEED* to get rid of....or rebuilt, but the $$ isnt there...so it needs to go.

i need to learn to

there is somebody local that wants to charge $700 to fix my structural issues caused by the hell-hole. is this a good price? doesn't include battery tray or engine bay metal, just repairing of supports and what-not.

jake, cap't....anybody have some insight on my "knock" issue.

i hear that a rod-knock engine doesn't last long at all, and so far this engine runs good.

i

20W-50 is the right shit IMO... if you are truly NOT getting oil, that is a big problem...

if this is truly a knocking rod... you are fuct... roayally and painfully fuct... however it *might* be valve noise... generally, from what I've seen, rod knocks only get louder as you run the engine, not quiet down...

@3000 RPMs a rod knock will sound like a hammer rattling around on the crank... LOUD as shit!

yeah i think it's valve noise then....

b/c from what I understand rod knock is not something that you just ignore....

valve adjustment scheduled then....

the oil light goes out (new sensor too) so i know oil is flowing

i also get a leak when its on, so i know oil is going around the engine...

honestly the more i think about it, it would probably be pretty hard *not* to get oil to the crankshaft and camshaft....

so valve noise then....

this is fun...talking about 914s....

I've been having similar problems.

I checked the side to side play on my rockers, and found they have about .025 so i'm guessing that may be whats causing it on mine. Just a guess though.

A mechanic down here i spoke with had mentioned the hazards of getting dirt into the valve area when adjusting the valves, and it working its way down into the lifter bores. I can only imagine what grit in the lifter bore can do. make them stick maybe?

a couple of thoughts.

b.

$700 sounds excessive. post pictures of what the welder proposes to do for 7 bills.

k

Rod knocks tend to be the worst when not under power... if you're pulling under power, then ease off the gas so everything is freewheeling, the knock will get louder and softer as you feather the throttle.

Ya know, You could buy a Honda for 700 bucks. Reliable bullet proof and chicks dig a poor kid in a Honda.

They just beg me for a real ride if the pass seat is empty while in grid.

QUOTE (brer @ Aug 21 2005, 05:33 PM)

I've been having similar problems. I checked the side to side play on my rockers, and found they have about .025 so i'm guessing that may be whats causing it on mine. Just a guess though. A mechanic down here i spoke with had mentioned the hazards of getting dirt into the valve area when adjusting the valves, and it working its way down into the lifter bores. I can only imagine what grit in the lifter bore can do. make them stick maybe? a couple of thoughts. b.

i've heard that the springs on the rocker assembly allows for too much movement, and that most in the know convert to the hydraulic t4 solid spacer.....

it could have been jake even...i've watched his DVD liek 200 times.

QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Aug 21 2005, 06:58 PM)

Ya know, You could buy a Honda for 700 bucks. Reliable bullet proof and chicks dig a poor kid in a Honda. They just beg me for a real ride if the pass seat is empty while in grid.

i get this said to me alot....

i know i could have a honda...
i could have had a saab 9000....
i could have my jeep still....
i could have had my parents' land-rover or jaguar....

i chose the 914. and i'm going to stick with it until it is done. then i'm gonna drive it

QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Aug 21 2005, 06:25 PM)

$700 sounds excessive. post pictures of what the welder proposes to do for 7 bills. k

that's what I thought....

I don't have my camera right now...i actually need to go back and talk to him about this anyway.


dont have too much of an option....do body shops do this kind of work?? I am good friends with the owner's son of a good one.

QUOTE (Rand @ Aug 21 2005, 06:29 PM)

Rod knocks tend to be the worst when not under power... if you're pulling under power, then ease off the gas so everything is freewheeling, the knock will get louder and softer as you feather the throttle.

definately not rod knock....if i drive the spit out of it...the sound blends into the rest of the contraption going on.....

it actually, upon closer listening sounds like valves...

i'm going to ask and see if i can get a adjustment done today...

a rod knock sounds like an old-ass diesel tractor when it's "not that bad yet"

and when it's bad it sounds like a bunch of hammers in a dryer... it's a terrible, terrible sound, and you'd know it if you heard it...

Would this be a valve adjustment done by yourself? We will be standing by to help fix your problems. But then again I don't trust NOBODY to set valves on my car.
Because I know what my .005 feels like which is different than the next guys .005 or what ever.
BTW Please don't put solid spacers in your solid lifter valve train. You think it is loud now???? it will be real loud then.

i dont think i know how to do that....

i doubt anybody will want to mess with it, so i might have to do it myself...

in that case, i'll need help.

thanks joe for the offer to help, might end up taking it...


im gonna put in the raby dvd...

EDIT: he did recommend the solid spacer as a replacement for the spring, as the rocker arm play was a bit too much to be okay....

okay britt, we can yalk you thru a valve adjustment. you will need a few simple things.

valve cover gaskets ( cork ones )
a set of feeler gauges
a stubby flat head
some wrenches

and last but not least the phone number of some one who can talk you thru it, it will take you about 1.5 to 2 hours the first time. if you need my number i can give it to ya

i need to get some cover gaskets....

Order extras and keep spares handy. I always keep oil filters and valve cover gaskets in stock. You can never have too many of those.

BTW, my 2.0 has sounded the same since I purchased the car. It only had about 200 miles on a rebuild when I purchased it, it's now been 6 years and still going strong. The sound is worse when the engine is cold, but as it warms up it tends to dissipate. I've been using 20w-50 for as long as I can remember.

You already have my number.

would a sound clip help??

engine sounds good, runs great, no metal flying around the engine compartment....


the only other issue i have is the "front of the engine, on top of the oil filter housing" oil leak...but i think the porsche mechanic is going to do that...i'm not up to changing oil cooler seals...i could definately do it though.

joe, i do have your number....let me get the gaskets (one week) and then i'll do this valve adjust...

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Aug 22 2005, 08:34 AM)

a rod knock sounds like an old-ass diesel tractor when it's "not that bad yet" and when it's bad it sounds like a bunch of hammers in a dryer... it's a terrible, terrible sound, and you'd know it if you heard it...

l33t i$ gr34t.

i can read it!

and im also laughing about the hammers in the dryer imagery...

For $700 buy your own welder and do your own repairs. In the end, you'll end up with a fixed car, a welder, and the welding know how. Better than just ending up with a fixed car and an empty wallet. Will take longer though . . .

What kind of metal work do you need ? I might be able to help. Or show you how.

David

hell hole rot....

holds up great, just looks ugly...

i was thinking about just some additional reinforcement in the suspension console area and perhaps a new engine shelf and battery tray (CSOB hell-hole repiar kit from engman sans tray)....

When do you want to do it. If you have to drop the motor for repairs we can do it then.
David

i'm super excited now....

i suppose the longs are good as some 250# guy jumped on my passenger door valence thingy like twelve times and the car didnt flex or anything....i would have sued him if it broke though.

let me think about it and i'll get back to you....

if you want, please pm me some contact information and I can contact you to talk things over...

well talked to my dad, and he thought it was a grand idea...

so i guess its up to you then...i go back to school this weekend, but i'll be back in town labor day weekend....