I know it’s been beat to death and going through all of the info is mind numbing and a little confusing. I recognize it might be the same here, but this way I can ask questions and hopefully get answers.

I’m thinking (again) about just rebuilding my 2.0L rather than doing a Subie conversion. I am looking to do a “basic” (ha ha) rebuild, nothing fancy. This will be a nice weather weekend car and not tracked/autocrossed. I would like to go to a 2056, but retain the factory FI. I’m not looking to spend 10K on the rebuild and I am more than capable in of the actual disassembly/reassembly process, but will sub out the machine work.

What piston/jug sets are available and work well? Not interested in Nickies as they are too rich for my blood!

Are the AA cylinder heads any good? I saw them on LN’s site and they specify “not sold in the Type IV store kit”, so just curious as to quality. i know the original heads suffer from issues due to age.

Other advice? I have most of the books on the Type IV, but realize they may be somewhat outdated?

Thanks!

AA’s seem to be fine for a stock-ish rebuild but like any replacement part, you want to measure them carefully. Don’t just assume they are ready to run.

https://www.europeanmotorworks.com/vw/type-4-engine-parts

This is a good source.

I'm planning on having old 2.0l Mahle Jugs machined to fit the pistons I chose.

I'm partial to the cast Keith Black pistons for street use.

I'll be using the "stroker" version with longer H-beams if I re-use the 2.0 crank.

That business appears to be the most capable regarding T4 machine work as well.

I'm patiently waiting for a stroker crank 78 or 78.6 to show up in the classifieds or other sources.

Three days ago, I had yet another 2.0 core "show up" that I was not expecting. It may be trash but it was CHEAP!

Having multiple cores is never a bad thing in my book...

Now, if the new core has a stroker crank I'd be super stoked!

I'd bet big money it doesn't!


The original Porsche internals are STUPID heavy. Just the KB strokers and the H-beams are nearly 4 LBS lighter than the stockers. It's the most weight I have ever removed from ANY engine I have ever built (300+) and I did not choose the very lightest parts available...
I choose "strongest" IMO. The serious weight loss was a nice by-product.

Both the stock rods and the stock pistons weigh MORE than big block Chevrolet stuff!

I believe the LN heads ARE actually AA casting. NOTHING but the aluminum casting is used. They even change the spark plug diameter and location, so the LN heads are MASSIVELY modified.
If you look on the AA website, AA themselves sell "bare" castings for just this purpose.

The fitted parts are not high enough quality for LN...

Look closely at anything Raby has posted and all of his videos.
These tidbits are GOLD in my book.

Why not go lighter and stronger than H-beam rods with Empi's rods:

https://empius.com/products/empi-pro-series...5-16-rod-bolts/

Gave up waiting and got an 80mm stroker crank with VW rod journals.

@Jack Standz

Those look cool.

I couldn't find any specs on those.

Are they available in 22mm pins?

Rod journal options?

Weight?

Found them for $400 pretty quickly.

Definitely in the budget!

Thanks for the link.

Good questions. Don't know, call Empi or see what's available on their website.

When I researched parts for our project, VW journals made for a little stronger crankshaft because they're bigger. We're using JE pistons, not sure the pin size. Journals are at least VW or Chevy, maybe other optionsmtoo, but likely not for the 2 liter cranks.

Empi's I-beam 5.5" rods for VW crank journals are 564 grams each and are $376 with free shipping here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204523163549?var=0...3ddf8351e1692fb

I built a 2056 a couple years ago with the AA 96mm pistons/cylinders, everything else stock. 8.8 CR I an running twin Weber 40 IDF's and she runs well. Considering a 78/maybe 98 in the future. The AA 96 P&C's sealed right away

As for strength the larger journals are better because of more overlap between the main journal and the rod journal.

This was a critical point in engines designed and built 50 years ago.

Modern stuff is far more forgiving, and I was surprised that there were not options available for the Type4 using Honda rods...

The high end V8 world (American stuff, NASCAR engines and the like) have all moved to the Honda rod journals at something like 1.889".

Didn't see any mention of Honda stuff until I watched a Jake Raby vid where he says "I've moved to Honda rods in all of my builds".

A tiny little blurb in his "engine case" vid that followed what I would have thought was a logical progression for rod improvements in the T4.

There is limited room inside the T4 case, the cam is too close to the crank anyway.

I'd want to install SMALLER parts if I can.

The Porsche pin diameter is 24mm and stupid heavy. They can be had but are much rarer than the 22mm versions.
The 22mm pins are "industry standard" and can be had anyway you want them.
I can order double tapered 22mm stuff where the center is thick, and the ends are thin for even more weight savings.
On a serious NA motor, I will normally go the tapered pin route.

So, I am interested in the Empi rods, they look strong and light but I'm going to want T4 journals (at the largest) and 22mm pins.

The hypereutectic KB pistons are ONLY available with 22mm pins.
Those are the ticket to "budget" engine IMO.

930cabman, Thanks for your reply

I haven't experienced trouble with modern cylinders yet but have seen too many posts where others did.
I PREFER to tell my machine shop what clearances I want, not let them (or others) make that decision for me!
Being a pin-headed bitch forces me to have my stuff machined to my specifications and usually means starting with used...

For the OP. Normally available parts should work fine. If you wish to keep the original D-Jet fuel injection staying closer to stock will be easier regarding tuning. I believe the D-jet is more capable for tuning to a bigger cam than the 1.8l L-jet stuff.

You DO NOT have to worry about cam and crank clearances nearly as much. Most stuff will just fit and work fine.

Now, this stuff has gotten expensive, and I believe it will cost more money in the long run to rebuild the 2.0 properly than mod in a used Subaru drivetrain.
You WILL NOT have the increased performance with the T4, and the Subi will be a much better platform for further mods. Subi will be MORE work! Just less money IMO.
This assumes you can handle all portions of the conversion yourself and don't have to pay labor (on either path).

If your cars really nice I'd lean towards T4. If not, I'd lean towards Subi.

I was around (as a working tech) during the Subaru "head gasket epoch" and cannot stand them as a result.
They still are a really good platform for a 914 IMO!

If I do go the 2.0L route, I’d run the factory FI with a 2056. That’s what was in my car when I first bought it, the. 2 years later spun a main bearing and wallowed one of the journals in the case 0.060” out. The engine I have now I bought from Auto Atlanta back in 2010 and it’s been sitting on my engine stand since, just down to the long block.

I realize from a performance standpoint the Subie will be better, especially since I would do the EZ30D. I am capable of doing most of the work myself, but would be learning/relearning body and welding skills. Losing part of the frunk isn’t an issue. I’m not concerned with modding as the HP and TQ of the EZ30D will be plenty enough for me in stock form. I don’t need 300+ hp; that’s too much for this chassis, IMHO. I just want it to be quick, fun, and reliable.

My car isn’t bad as the PO replaced the rockers, hell hole, and lower firewall 2 years before I bought it. I need to replace the passenger lower sail, rear portion with f the passenger long (believe it to be old damage from the hell hole issue), and part of the driver’s wheel well. Floors are great as is everything else, hence my debate.

I guess I’ll look into parts for the rebuild and go from there. I’m just looking for realistic/real world advice on stuff that’s decent/good quality and works well without breaking the bank. I’ve had this car for 25 years, most of it in storage, and would love to make it a nice driver; resale is not a factor for me, but smiles per miles is!

Really happy with my 2056 with 9530 cam running LH heads and stock Djet. Had to have the MPS tweaked, and it takes about 10 seconds to idle smoothly, but definitely an improvement in low end torque. Gonna experiment with the resistance s on the FI CHT and see if that improves.Oil pressure is great with 26mm modified pump and CHTs never get above 375 on long mountain passes. 8.5 CR and .40 DH using KB pistons.

I did a AA Performance 2056 build on my 1.7 engine over the winter. I replaced everything except the case and crank sprocket. I used all AA parts except the cam which is a Webcam 73. Basically a stock cam with a little higher lift. I purchased AA heads with 42X36 valve and 4 bolt intake runners. I used these heads for keep my existing intake manifolds with a modest improvement in flow over the stock 1.7 heads. Engine was setup for 8.8 CR

A few notes about the AA kit I bought.

Whenever I called about issues... they kept telling me it was a bus kit. There seems to be some internal confusion about the kits they sell.

The heads (ordered separate) came without the Cylinder Head Temp drilled and tapped. You can't run FI without this bung tapped in the right place. They ended up sending me a new one that they machined and tapped. Unfortunately the tapped the hole the wrong size... even after I told them the correct tap size. It was weeks of wasted time shipping everything back and forth. They did fix it... which was good... just a lot of wasted time. I did not drill the heads for ventilation ports. Seems fine so far. I also installed custom length chrome molly push rods. Engine is quieter.

They sent me the wrong Flywheel... it was for a bus even though I specifically ordered the 914 flywheel. Again... more wasted time.

I ordered different bolts for the cam gear as I didn't like the clearance for the Oil pump. I was worried it would eventually interfere.

The Gasket kit is sub standard in my opinion..The kit was for a 2.0 with 3 bolt intake. I had to order the 4 bolt intake gaskets separate and it was extra. I ended up doing a whole different o-ring system on the push rod tubes... because I had a lot of leaks... and I was extremely careful installing it. I still have leaks coming from the front of the engine and I will likely drop the engine next winter and fix. I think the front crank seal is leaking and possibly the oil pump. I thought I did everything right... but those seals are weak. I had already changed the rear seal to a better one... and I wish I had done the front seal before I installed the engine.

I had a hard time getting the correct end play shimmed up... as it was a little tight to begin with. Again... more time ordering shims and waiting to get it all right.

I upgraded the injectors to 2.0 ones. Mine were shot anyhow.

I painted the jugs and heads with black ceramic paint from Cerekote. We haven't had hot enough weather yet to really see how well it dissipates heat... but so far it's running nice and cool.

Car runs good... and pulls strong. I've driven at least 10 stock FI cars... and this one is the strongest one I've driven... but is also the freshest engine. I only have about 300 miles on it... as the weather is just now starting to turn here in the Midwest. Starts easy and runs well. I did add an Air Fuel Ratio gauge and O2 sensor... and I've been tweaking / tuning the MPS myself.