I’m installing an aftermarket antenna and am a little confused on the provided instructions picture.. my issue is with the red wire from the antenna. The picture shows a direct connection between it and the battery - and I do have a free wire thru the tunnel back to the battery. But the issue is that the pic also shows a connection to switched power (?). What’s the best way to make that happen ? I can bring switched off of fuse8 and 9 I think. The only thing I’m imagining is a double spade connector at the red antenna wire and have both types of power connected to it… is that the proper non-ghetto technique or is there a better option ?

IIRC, just the radio turns on the antenna. The diagram is wrong. The radio should have a switched power output line.

You sure ‘bout that? So how would the red wire from the antenna get hooked up, only to switched power?


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I've got a powered antenna sitting on the shelf.

It depends on the radio. I've installed some very expensive audio systems in my cars over a span of 20 years or so, but quite awhile ago. I haven't had to do it recently because the stock systems are so good now. Both of my Toyotas have factory JBL systems.

You turn on the radio & up pops the antenna. If your radio doesn't have this feature (a switched output power line or connection), then I would just connect the antenna to the same fuse that powers the radio assuming this is switched by the ignition key & the fuse is big enough to handle the additional current draw. It needs to be switched either way & only switched by preferably one circuit.

Is there any alternator noise in your sound system? If so, ask me about PI filters.

P.S. Sony used to make some really awesome car radio/cassette decks & power amplifiers. They kicked Blaupunkt's ass big time.

I have put in a few.
Two wires requires black to ground, red to switch power from stereo head unit, typically blue
Three wire would be
Black to ground
Red to live power, fused
Other reddish to switched blue wire at stereo

Im using a Blaupunkt stereo with 4 wires: yellow (direct to battery), black to ground, red (to switched power) and blue (power antenna lead).

Then the antenna itself has a blue (to blue antenna lead on back of radio) and a red (for power) [besides coax and ground]. Diagram shows both direct and switched for the antenna’s red.

I wouldn’t want the antenna to be up if the car is turned off but power was left on at the radio head unit. I’m wondering if that’s the reason for both power sources to the antenna?

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If the radio is off, then the antenna should be down. Yes?

The yellow wire draws the current for the internal power amplifier. It should be fused. The red wire trips an internal relay that turns the rig on. The blue wire feeds the antenna motor.

Again the diagram is wrong. Your post is correct.

"Diagram shows both direct and switched for the antenna’s red." Isn't this going to "keep it up" all the time even without Viagra?

That upside down "L" trace should connect after the key to the switched trace.

This is typical aftermarket documentation BS.



Back to those damn emoticons.

CTTOI, all those connections should be fused & given your radio's connections, the antenna should only be connected to the blue wire & not the key switched power.

Ok gonna give this a try like you’re suggesting.. but if my car burns down, it’s



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Your red wire to batt is used to maintain clock, preset stations, etc. IOW memory items. Switched is for radio/stereo power so you don't inadvertently leave it on and drain the batt. Your call as to how you feed the switched side.

I'm losing it. I guess it's my age. I forgot about the clock & station presets. In addition to the blue control line, the antenna needs power too. Sorry for the incomplete info.

I'm wrong again. The diagram is correct. It shows switched power to the radio & direct unswitched power to the antenna. Both the ignition switch & the antenna are connected to the + terminal of the battery. This should work just fine provided the antenna isn't constantly drawing current from the battery even when the car isn't running.

I'm going to blame the small screen on my cell phone. It's a poor excuse.

You're talking about the radio's red wire = memory stuff ... that wire is yellow on my blaupunkt as stated above. But this still does not address the red wire from the antenna (not from the radio).

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Actually it shows both switched and unswitch to the antenna (as stated in my original post). And the question I asked in the original post :
"The only thing I’m imagining is a double spade connector at the red antenna wire and have both types of power connected to it… is that the proper non-ghetto technique or is there a better option ?"

PM sent. Call me. Why have both types of power connected? The switched power will be redundant. The unswitched power will always be turned on & the antenna will always have power regardless of the switched feed. I think I'm missing something here.

I think I'm missing something - why would the antenna need anything but switched power? It has no need for memory and yeah battery drain is a potential concern. Think I'm gonna hook to switched power and see. I can always change it up if need be. I'll report back on it eventually in case anyone else comes across this question. Thanks for the help.

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I would go with switched power too. Now if both the radio & antenna are connected to unswitched power, then you could listen to your system without a key in the ignition. Whatever.

I knew the answer when I read post 1. The drawing is correct. Then I read to the end and doubted myself. Kind of like debating with the wife. Had to read another topic and come back.

The drawing is correct. Red lead to unswitched power. If it was on switched power, then antenna would not fully retract when you shut the car down. Antenna motor draws current on demand. Starter and solenoid operation would be analogous.

Good point. You nailed it.

Ok, if the drawing is correct then that's to say red is not JUST to unswitched power. Drawing shows both, so gain a double spade at the red wire?

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The drawing simply shows the ignition switch & antenna fuse block wired in parallel & connected to the + terminal of the battery. That's the input to the ignition switch & not a switched output. The only thing that's switched is the fuse block going to the radio. So it's switched to the radio & unswitched to the antenna. The exact wiring arrangement is up to you.