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The car unfortunately sat on the dock in Tacoma though out a winter and that was the cause in this case. That said I am surprised that the cap allowed water to enter.

I've since removed it at cleaned all the rust of course. I'm considering either re-plating or replacing. I prefer the original look over aluminum but if others have had this issue then I might go with an aluminum unit.

Pete

Mine has been this way since almost new.

It's common.
It's not from water leaking in. It's from condensation.
Get the neck and the 54mm clamp replated.
Your cap is probably crusty too.

Ok- all good to know- thanks. This one was basically brand new when I took the car to the shipping company at Tacoma and when It got to me it looked like this. The clamp looks fine and the cap is still looking good as well but many of the parts that re-plated in 2019 looked worse for wear after shipping. I'm getting ready to tear the car apart and re-restore it.

I'll replace it and see how well it lasts.

Pete

I bet some of it is ethanol caused rust
And washes of (removed) with some carb cleaner and a scratch paf

yep

the moisture/condensation is part of the process as the oil heats up and if your breather is hooked to a vacuum source to draw that corrosive vapor it will be fine.
I learnt a lesson with the wrong filler vent set up, did a few tests and hooked up a piece of PVC clear fuel oil rated hose to the stock aircleaner , interesting how I could see small droplets of condensation heading down the hose ,had no milky sludge anymore under the filler cap now but rusty as old system caused that .
Good solution for me, could well be others, cheers.

all true.

would add. car needs to do steady state driving to pull that water vapor through the engine combustion process and needs engine/oil to be hot enough to release vapors.
(same goes for hydrocarbon impurities absorbed into crankcase oil). got to get it hot and got to drive it somewhere where you can cruise steady for extended period.
(same goes for purging the charcoal can if you still got one).

why i like to drive my 914 minimum 1/2 an hour if i take it out, preferably an hour.

getting hard to do where i live at moment but so far so good.
nice thing about a 18 L jet is the cap and filler is plastic.
but the bit below that is still metal like the D jets?

i have noticed if i don't get to drive it enough in winter occasionally i do get a slight milky residue in the top of the filler pipe below the cap. thats with all the crankase evap system intact too.

the crankcase vent system isn't open to draw fumes all the time, at least in an L jet.
i'd have to look it up again, but its only at certain times with engine vacuum conditions.
from memory its during steady state cruise when the throttle plate is open.
could be wrong but i think that is right.
the L jets have a filler cap that is actually the PCV valve and there is a diagphram in it rhat responds to inlet vacuum.

D jet could be completely different of course.

and of course with a porsche 6 - thats a huge volume of oil its got, that you got to get hot to drive the water vapor out of it.

Thanks all. Since I got the car and noticed the rust I’ve been getting it plenty warm- some say too warm- haha. There is a hose to the intake to draw all the condensation out- plenty of full throttle fun!

Pete

Pete,
Ive noticed on my too..
After a drive I always remove the cap and leave the engine grill open
to vent out all the condensation out of the Cap/Filler neck and Tank.
Just make sure put the Cap back on your next drive.
Alan/914