I was just looking at old post's about clutch job's, and saw many of you have replaced the mainshaft seal. I was wondering if it was necessary to replace this seal. I have already ordered the 20 piece clutch kit from pelican and misc other item's which should be here tomorrow. So my deliema is do I need to wait another week for this seal, or can I reassemble without replacing it?
Thanks,
Eric

Do you mean the rear main seal... or the tranny input shaft seal ??

If you mean the tranny seal.. I dont replace them unless I see them leaking or I find gear lube in the bell housing (not coming from the clutch arm pivot ball)...


What is in this 20 piece kit ??


B

I replaced it when i did mine. lucky because mine was leaking.

The kit includes things like

exhaust gasket,
pilot bearing
T/O bearing
Plate
Clutch
CV gaskets
Fork pivot cup.

and a few others things im sure

Having literally just completed that project, I can say, no you don't have to. If there is evidence of fluid loss, then yes, otherwise move along. I, too, ordered 20 piece kit from Pelican and wound up having to wait for new flywheel, rear main seal, and tranny mainshaft seal, because I had crud, oil, and fluid galore.

I asked what was in the kit.. because I just bought a complete kit from HPH for the PP price of 329$ and it came with:

Machined flywheel with known wear ( he marks the amount left for cut later
Pressure plate
911 sport disc (6 spring)
Throw out bearing
Pivot cup for clutch arm
Rear main seal
Felt washer
Lock plate for flywheel
Pilot bearing
5 Flywheel bolts
2 Muffler gaskets
2 shift rod pins (late tranny)

Now.. can somebody post the EXACT pieces in the PP kit ???LOL


B

Christ people... go look at their website.

I dont visit "their" site.. I figured if somebody had just bought the kit.. they would know what they bought. I guess not.

The 4 spring disc breaks... all it takes is a wider tire and some minor aggressive driving.

I forgot the CV gaskets on my list.

Cool.. that it comes with a pilot tool..

Thanks LB.. I knew you where good for something....


B

I'm good at lots of things... just none of them 914 related.

-Rusty

P.S. I check LOT of folks on-line catalogs out. They're good quick reference material.

That reminds me of a topic I need to start.


B

I would never do a clutch job without doing the main seal, 10 bucks is cheaper than the clutch disk, not to mention a 2nd engine R&R.

On that exchange flywheel are people resetting their endplay shims?
If not you’re just asking for trouble!

You would think huh? Then again you forgot the CV gaskets also.

Your bastard... (just kidding)

I stock the CV gaskets.. so they where NOT part of the 329.00



MarkH..

Lets chat about this endplay game.

Are you saying that it could be different per flywheel ??

I dont do a whole bunch of clutch jobs (unless its a 9146).. and I have normally just turn the customers flywheel..so not much issue there.

Talk to me.. talk to the BBS. Are they playing with fire here ??


B

I'd sure like to know. I replaced my flywheel with a new OEM one... and didn't do anything to check "endplay".

Am I going to die a horrible fiery death, like if I used SS brake lines?

-Lawrence

Brad - I just purchased the tranny gasket set from "them". I'll check it when I get home and maybe post a pic of everything if it's not labeled well. I bought the 911 clutch disc seperate since my flywheel was good.

Yep, you/they are!

Factory endplay spec is.003 to .005 for the /4 engine. No two flywheels are exactly the same and if you get an asshole like me, I true (regrind) the shim surface all the time. The tool to check this dimension is cheap and can be bought at any bug shop.

If you have a bunch of old shims in a drawer go measure them, you’ll find from .007 to .015 in .001 increments. There is a reason for this, in the manufacturing process from flywheel #1 (or/plus the crank, case, bearing etc.) to flywheel # 1000, the tooling wears therefore changing dimensions.
Never assume, measure it!

If you run too much endplay, your crank can actually hit the bearing saddles as it spins, resulting in certain early death. I can’t remember if the /6 engine endplay is set the same (I think it is, but ’97 was my last 911 full rebuild) but if it is it should be checked.

Every /4 engine will have 3 shims, anymore (never less) and you have big f’in problems.

If it’s the same fly that was on the engine to start with, your OK as long as the other guy did his job right. I don’t chance it, I always check. You would not believe the shit I’ve seen.

Does anyone have the PP tech link (sorry, I’m really too busy to look) I’d like to see what they say about this.

Glad I dont replace flywheels very often.

I have the el cheapo end play tool. Works gud.


B

That and a set of feeler gauges are all you need.

I use an expensive dial indicator set up just because it's faster but I also have the end play tool you have. I have checked them 'back to back' and they both work quite well.

I have both also... but I can easily find the feeler gauges...LOL


B