I get if you're doing valve adjustments by putting just one side of the car up but if you're on a lift (I have an EZCar Lift) it's a bit awkward for me to stop one wheel from turning (with my foot) while spinning the other to get to the next adjustment point.

Anyone use a ratchet strap or similar? Seems a floor jack under the wheel would just get pushed out of the way...

Thanks,
Brian

Not for valve adjustments, but had good luck with a block of wood in front of wheel rotation. The block tries to get sucked under the wheel and stops it.

Assuming the wheel isn't that high off the floor.

I've jammed a jack in there, really just found a valley on the jack to support both sides, there's not much torque when spinning the wheels, unless you have an lsd...

Nylon strap through the wheel and attached to something stationary.

That's what I was thinking...just make double sure it's removed when you're done...

Pull the pin on the emergency brake cable on one wheel, pull up the handle and you can spin the wheel that is not locked by the brake.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7760022

I've been using one of these for decades!

Sadly, modern cars often have no access to the starter anymore.

But modern cars often have a starter relay in the electrical junction box and with a couple of .250 spades you can get it done.

I have turned engines over via "in gear" and push the whole car but I've not turned one via the lock one wheel and turn the other wheel.

It should work fine!

I have found that if you have a vehicle that you cannot push by hand most of the time you CAN move it by rotating on the tire instead of pushing on the body.

I have moved 1-ton duallies around by myself using the "rotate the tires" trick.

For turning engines, once you've used a bump starter you never go back...

The one Greg linked to is decent and budget friendly.
I think I paid the same amount 30+ years ago!

I just used one of my ramps to stop the wheel. A cement block or 2 could be used.

Lifted the car and placed a ramp under one wheel and lowered the car until there was enough pressure on the ramp to keep the wheel from spinning. Still plenty of room to work under the car.

Exactly what I've done. Learned that technique from someone who makes their living working on vintage Porsche's. Works great, fast and easy.

I have one and use it but haven't felt it was accurate enough.
I’ll try again!

Iirc, a vice grip C clamp can be used to squeeze the parking brake lever on one caliper.

Why do you need to be that accurate?

You take both valve covers off and use a remote starter button to bump the motor until the front exhaust valve on the left side is open. Then you go adjust the front exhaust valve on the right side. Repeat until you have all the valves adjusted.

The cam only has 4 lobes, so if the valve on the left side is open, the valve on the right side is on the base circle. Right where you need it for valve adjustments.

Understood - it just always seemed that it moved in large increments. I'll try it again...

Trans in 5th gear, I just grab one wheel with one hand and spin the other.

Agree with Clay
Remote starter
Krusty method
And quick Easy.

I dislike bumping the starter when the car is on jack stands.

Finally back to where the 914 is stored and got back into the 123 install today. Found that blocking the wheel is easier than I thought and was kind of surprised how little friction was needed to stop the rotation. A cinder block did the trick.

I HATE the stop-with-one-foot method....thanks for the suggestions. My 914 is at our other place and I only get time with it for short spurts so thinking and scheming and planning takes up the off-tine.