I replaced the brake master cylinder yesterday (miserable, horrible job that requires 4 hands to get the evil grommets installed). I have to MC well seated and fully tightened to the firewall. When subsequently adjusting the pedal rod to the 1mm free play, I really had to adjust it forward. Almost to the point of running out of threads. Is this common with the 914Rubber non-easy install MC? I know everyones car is different, but this seemed a little excessive. Is this ok as along as its tightened down?

Thanks for any observations.

Did you bleed the brakes yet?

I’ve had to adjust mine 72 several times. After bleeding the brakes mine were too tight and I had several sessions with it to get it right. I had my brakes dragging the first time even with the wheels mostly free spinning. I’ll do a mid summer bleed and check it again this summer. Pop the steering wheel off to get down in there for adjustments.

Yep it’s a painful process…

Congratulations on getting the grommets in! That nearly killed me as well, but somehow after struggling with them to the point that I actually tore one, on the second go round with new grommets they popped right in with just a modicum of effort. I think the difference was that I properly lubed them up with brake fluid the second go round and by then I had figured out a way to get leverage on the top of the grommets. You may think you have already bled the brakes, but if you haven't really and thoroughly bled them you need to do that before adjusting the rod. It took three quarts of brake fluid using a Motiv pressure bleeder before I was satisfied that I had all the air out. I used a soft rubber mallet to tap on all the components, and in specific the brake pressure regulator, to dislodge any air bubbles. If I had adjusted the rod before that I probably would have been all the way out on the end of the threads. Just my experience, not sure how applicable it will be to your situation.

And just to make sure, you put the washers in under the grommets, right? I think it might have been you that asked about that in another post but if it wasn't, and you didn't put them in, you'll have to start over......

Thanks for the comments. I have fully bled the brakes (3 quarts through using a Motiv bleeder in addition to pedal pressing. Pedal is nice and firm, but I'm sure it will take a few more bleeding sessions after bubbles are shaken loose from driving. I didn't think of tapping on the pressure regulator...dang.

Pedal was adjusted after my first pass at bleeding, but good to know that it may need to be adjusted. I'll tinker with it. Pedal travel is pretty short and firm, so the brakes could very well be dragging as it's set. I still have the car up on jack stands and wheels off.

And yes, I was able to re-use my existing washers. They were in good condition and required a light cleaning to get some varnish off. One thing not mentioned by people in previous threads is that the washers need to seat in the bores. The originals were firmly fitted (but only required a little leverage to get out) and I could see there being problems trying to get the grommets in with the pipe fighting a loose washer. They were snuggly seated with a little pressure by a socket before I started the grommet battle.

Speaking of the grommets, I couldn't press on the lower shoulder with a wrench without slipping off. Pressing on the top of the grommet only deformed it. What eventually worked was to get one side in and then work the rest of it in by levering on it with an angled needle nose pliers. Brake fluid "lubrication" served to make everything slippery and difficult to hold!

No leaks so far, so fingers crossed!

Addendum to this post for future searches. After I had installed the new MC, I was concerned because when adjusting the brake pedal position, I was almost out of threads because the pedal was back so far. Well, in the process of replacing my recently broken brake light switch, I discovered that the little rubber bumper that fits in the clutch and brake pedal stop has slipped to one side. So, I had adjusted the pedal when it was in the incorrect position. The pressure of the pedal being too far back is likely what broke the brake light switch as well.
Make sure that rubber stop bumper is in place when fiddling with the pedals...

Thanks for coming back to update this thread!!!! Just another thing to add to the checklist, although I'm sure you share my sentiment that I hope never to have to do this again.

I've been fighting for good brakes on our BB for almost 4 years. Two new sets of calipers, gallons of fluid, three new regulators, and two mew MC's. First was the Rubber EZ. Chinese copy of the ATE. When all else would not produce results, I purchased a 19mm ATE from the people I bought the other stuff from. I was pretty pissed that I cut the feed lines to put the EZ in, but a buddy helped me out putting he ATE in.
That made no difference.
Now, after all this time I have another new set of restored calipers and a regulator from the same people I trusted to begin with.
Finally, after all this time, fluid, driving and other BS I was able to lock the fronts up. It took a lot of pedal effort, but hey, it sometimes it needs to happen.
Next step for me is to install the new rears. The fronts and regulator are in. Since the rears have been lockable since the second set of calipers, I'm thinking all will go well.
Before I put the rears on I did go to the pedal box and snug up the pushrod. What a pain. Now the pedal is right up top, and I'm hopeful I'll finally have brakes I can count on.
Good luck with your project!

@burlybryan

The threads of the brake rod should be near flush with the part it screws into when the rod is properly adjusted. If you are almost out of thread there is a problem with the master cylinder.

Agreed. The reason (at the time) I was almost out of threads is because I hadn't noticed that the brake pedal stop bumper had slid to the side. So I was adjusting the pedal-to-MC play with the pedal too far rearward. With the bumper back in position, I re-adjusted the pedal-to-MC shaft and the shaft threads are nearly flush with the fitting.