Would I be correct in thinking that the metal disk where ground studs are located should be bare metal?

The one in this photo is above the relay board in the engine bay. It was painted body color and I stripped it with a wire brush. I just can't imagine that thick disk behind the stud was meant to be covered in paint if that is a ground location.

Click to view attachment

P.S. After tightening these connections, is it good practice to coat them in dielectric grease?

P.P.S. Are the ground point locations the same on the 914-6 as the 914-4s? @JeffBowlsby had a nice drawing of the locations, but I think it was specific to the 4s.

Yes they need bare metal. The grease can't hurt

The grease HELPS bigtime!

Doesn't really matter what grease either.

What you are doing is "sealing" the joint from oxygen.

Vaseline will work!

Even if you get an electrolyte in the joint without oxygen you get no corrosion.

Distilled water is NOT an electrolyte.
Every other type of water is.

Rainwater is an electrolyte.

Grease repels water pretty good as well...

If my car wasn't a real live six, I'd add internal toothed washers to all of my grounds.

I want my grounds to have TEETH!

On a proper six I wouldn't.

It would be hard for me to own a real six...

I live to modify, and the six's possible value precludes modification.

I'll stay with my little baby 4-cylinder cars which I can slice and dice without remorse!

Dielectric = non conductive

Dielectric grease does not help conductivity. If you’re going to use the crap, make the ground connection 1st bare metal to bare metal.

Put dielectric grease over the top if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy.

However, I've used dielectric grease on my terminals for years without a single issue.

Doesn't make sense to me either.

I'd love to find a "pro-electric" grease that had the same life span as dielectric grease.

I AM POSITIVE that if you smear the crap out of your battery terminals with dielectric grease, to the point they're gooey and sticky, you can come back 4 years later, knock the dried hardened grease off and have perfect terminals...

It works BETTER than any other anti-corrosion product I've tried, and I believe I've tried everything.

Now, If @SuperHawk996 has a better suggestion I'm ALL EARS!!!!

Because putting a non-conductive grease on electrical shit just sounds WRONG!

You wouldn’t want “pro-electric” grease in any sort of multi-pin circuit as it would lead to current leakage between pins if any of the grease were bridged from pin to pin. This is why non-conductive dielectric grease is used.

Yes, using dielectric grease on terminals “works”. Primarily because the grease is being scraped off as the terminal pins engage. At that point it basically resides outside the electrically connected joint.

I don’t think I want to go into this much more than that.

The stuff is like a religion. Some believe and slather it in, and on everything making a mess in the process and sometimes actually making things worse believing dielectric grease is some sort of magic cure for electrical issues. For me its uses are few and far between. Worked on lots of military equipment exposed to harsh environments and it was rarely used or expressly forbidden depending on application.

I have shied away from greases with electrical connections as I feel they attract dirt and debris.

OP, yes get down to clean and tight.