Smelled gas the other day when I was about go for a little ride..

I found fuel leaking either from the line or at the drivers side I think its a fuel regulator?, silver cylinder attached to bracket with screw on top looks like a fuel filter but I'm assuming its a regulator there is also one on the passenger side near the fuel pump as well..

Its held on by a bracket that looks to be part of the engine tin, I guess I loosen the nut in my pics and slide it out so I can deal with it a little better..

Is this fuel line similar 8mm braided Fuel line like on my VW's was either going to replace the whole run of it or just trim the line and re-attach ..?
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

That looks like it is original hose, or original style hose, and very old. The original hose is not ethanol tolerant, so with today's gas you should replace that with new hose that is ethanol rated and also replace the clamps with proper EFI clamps.

An engine fire will ruin your whole day, so make sure to take care of it soon.

Thanks, do you happen to know the sizing and good source for proper fuel lines and clamps?

https://tangerineracing.com/shop/ols/search...escend_by_match

REPLACE!!! And do not use any of the “German” braided hose on the market. Use a quality SAE ethanol rated fuel hose, 5/16th ID. Gates Barricade is good. On my car I use SAE 30-R9 rated hose, though for carb SAE 30-R7 is sufficient. Also, use proper fuel injection hose clamps. Harbor freight has them. Don’t use worm gear clamps. Leak city.

The braided stuff hides dry rot and cracks in the rubber due to age/heat etc. you don’t know you have leak potential until you are in your situation with an active drip. It’s also impossible to tell what is ethanol rated or not.


Zach

I see the wrong hose clamps everywhere in your pictures. Please use clamps that are specifically designed for high pressure fuel injection hoses.

AND DO ALL OF THE RUBBER HOSES!!!!!!!

Up under the tank, all over the engine compartment, look closely at the injector rubber.

Trust NOTHING!!!!!!

If it's original it's seen BOTH NTBE and ethanol!

Both destroy old school fuel hoses in different ways.

MTBE hardens and cracks.

Ethanol turns it into marshmallow mush.

One final piece is the original plastic center tunnel tubes.

Replace with stainless or copper/nickel.

Tangerine sells nicely done pieces reasonably priced.

Some folks say the plastic tubes (which are a shitload better than the rubber) can even still be used.

I disagree highly, especially on high pressure fuel systems.

Check ALL of your fuel lines. Given what you have in the engine bay, you also need to pull the gas tank and replace the lines/clamps there, as well as the ones underneath the engine that connect to the lines in the tunnel. If you have an early car consider replacing the clear/white plastic lines in the tunnel with stainless steel lines. If you have a '75 or '76 car and have the the black plastic lines, replacing them likely isn't necessary as they are more durable.

Having experienced and engine fire in a 914, I would replace the plastic lines with stainless steel even if I had a 75 or 76. Watching your beloved 914 burn on the side of the road is nothing you ever want to experience.

I took out the late plastic lines last summer and found there was no reason to have removed them. They remained solid and flexible with zero sign of degradation. Much different than the material used for the early lines. Removing them required adding additional rubber ( additional failure points and maintenance items) since the same material also runs up through to the engine bay on late cars. Others have echoed the same experience.
YYMV.

Belmetric has real metric hose, proper rating, not just stamped metric sizes on standard hose, and all the proper hose clamps you need.

One more voice of encouragement. Replace all the rubber lines with bonafide high pressure tubing in the proper metric size, use proper OEM style hose clamps, and tighten them correctly.

Don't burn up your car!

Thanks, all good advice, the plan was to drive it until summer then drop the motor and go over everything.. I've owned a lot of VW's in my life and thank goodness I never had a fire and I certainly don't want to start with this new acquired toy, I like driving it too much..

I'll head the advice and will start going over all the as much as I can before driving it much more and hopefully can make it to late spring before dropping the motor and giving her a proper going over..

From what I have read those tunnel lines are a bit easier to change with engine out.

My 75 has low pressure (3psi) carb set up on it now with the black plastic lines.

I'll get it up and running on the plastic but am already planning a drivetrain out refurb.

I'll change my plastic then.

Note: my car definitely has 31K miles and has been stuck in hibernation for 33 years.

My black plastic lines are MINT!

No way I'll push 30+ PSI through them.

The "engine out job" will include refitting the stock L-jet.

Black plastic lines will be changed then!

I was going to toss them in the trash, but I MIGHT be able to sell them to @rjames ...

I have another suggestion for what you can do with them.

A PROPER response to my mild jab!

Well played, Sir!

I conceded the point...