Hi everyone, I’m new to this site. It’s very nice to meet all of you. I am trying to find the value of my dad’s 1970 Porsche 914–6. It is no longer in DMV‘s system. It has been sitting for 15 years in the garage it was running and driving when parked. He is the original owner to the car. I would like to know the value of the car as it sits. it’s extremely straight, a no rust California car. Also the value if I get it running, driving and cleaned up. I may even consider keeping the car it all depends. Sorry for the bad photos I took screenshots of my video.

Welcome! Post your video on YouTube and share the link. That will help. Prices are all over the map and looks like some period common changes that don't impact price too much. If rust isn't much of an issue prices could range anywhere from 45k all the way up to 100k+. A local 914 world knowledgeable member might be willing to take a look to help you with common areas of concern. If you are selling, running and driving is always better.lots of questions but looks like a good car from what you shared.

Hard to tell without a lot more pics and info. 916 front bumpers were usually installed to cover up front end damage. From what’s presented, probably $35-40k. Better documentation, running and rust evaluation, maybe $50k-ish.

Lotta “stuff” in there doesn’t look quite right - parts in trunks etc.

Missing side markers; implies wiring problems? Missing parts?

Missing little details like rear shock tower rubber covers. I’m sure there are more details we can’t see.

Non original dash? Maybe wood / simulated wood?

The Porsche reflector in back means holes drilled in sheet metal and more wiring modifications for an electric solenoid?

Peak values come from originality - which this one lacks.

Rust is the other big determinant of value and all these cars have rust - it’s just a matter of degree which can’t be seen in photos.

Engine? Original? Matching numbers?

Agree with prior post, find someone local that can put eyes on it for rust that isn’t going to be easily seen in video or photos.

Worth keeping if you ask me due to rarity and sentimental value.

None of the six cylinder engines are cheap to repair; do not attempt to start without proper prep. Research what this entails before trying to start it.

The original front bumper comes with the car. It was a style change. He did due to his taste. He also has a 1970 911 with a ducktail same kind of thing we have the original lid as well.

Always nice to see another car potentially come out from hibernation. Learn where the typical areas of rust can be found and be sure to get some pictures of those. You can't really claim a car is "rust free" until you have documented that here is no rust in the longs, the hell hole, the sail panels, the fire wall, floor pan, the door frame, the cowl, bottom of the doors, etc. Pictures are key here if you want an honest opinion. I don't think anybody can tell enough from the pictures you posted. Take a lot of pictures and put them in an accessible dropbox file and then post a link. Originality counts for most people. Original paint in good condition? Few, or reversible modifications (like the front bumper)? Records? A documented history? There is a lot of work to be done to get a car out of a 15+ year hibernation, even assuming it was put away running and not because of what might have been considered terminal issues. How much work needs to be done can significantly affect the value. Don't look at the car with rose colored glasses, take an honest look at condition without any sentimentality or preconceived notions of it's condition. Better yet, get someone with the proper fund of knowledge to come take a look at the car. In the end the value of any car really boils down to finding the right buyer. The more compelling story a car has, the more likely it is to attract buyers. The more potential buyers you attract, the more the potential value of a car. And yes, running and well sorted this is a much more valuable car.

It would be nice to be able to keep the original plates, but unfortunately since it has fallen out of the California DMV system you will not be able to keep those blue and gold plates on the car. Hang on to them though as you might be able to put them back on as year of manufacturer plates. Keep the plates with the car and keep any documentation (old registrations) that show they are the original plates. On the plus side you don't have to pay all the back years of registration plus penalties if it has fallen out of the system.

Post more photos.

Too many letters/numbers on that plate, they've been replaced at some point. Probably in the 80s

Welcome

And agreed that you would need to pull the rocker panels to know how much rust there is. It can’t be seen from the exterior

You should have the carbs rebuilt and all fuel lines replaced. The tank cleaned, etc…. Before any attempt to start it

We just had a customer come in with a 911 engine that was sitting for six years. At least one of the barrels of the cylinders has pitting. It’s getting a full rebuild. That’s ~ $30k retail. You really don’t know what you have until it’s thoroughly evaluated and even then, it’s still a bit of a gamble.

A /6 is a nice find, regardless of condition. Worth restoring to at least driver condition and possibly keeping it (I would).

Is the VIN in our database? If not you should consider adding it.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=94572

Welcome to the world. 914world that is.

Best Bob B

@Benoded
Don't throw that 916 bumper in the trash just yet.
Post a picture of the whole bumper.

If it is the real deal (factory, not aftermarket), it'll be worth some good money.


PS:

Current value, one tack is find the $$ of a completed very good condition example and work backwards adding the estimates to get her there. Wil this be a DIY?

If the VIN starts with "47x29", the car was originally a four-cylinder model that was converted to a Six at some point. I think I see a left-side ignition key location, so if that was done in a conversion it is closer to a real Six than most.

A factory 914-6 is generally worth more than a conversion, though the specifics of condition and of the conversion done affect the value significantly. The highest value is for super-clean low-mileage all-original cars. Non-running cars also lose quite a bit of value as compared to runners.

I don't have a good feel for value, but 930cabman's suggestion is a decent one.

--DD

Welcome. This is a great group of guys with a whole lot of knowledge. It will all start with some good photos as has been said above. If at all possible, get that car outside in the daylight and snap away. Post the pictures and people will start seeing what you are dealing with. I see left side ignition, hand throttle and Fuchs - good start.