Help,

This is a new development with my 1.7 D-jet..... she will "stall" @ odd times
Will not re-start .... trails white smoke & smells rich (while turning-over)
Engine will eventually start, run rough, then be fine, until the next "episode"
Dosen't happen all the time but enough to be a total "Drag" in traffic!
I changed the CHT sender, I do have petronix, but car runs sweet 95%
of the time... happens under load & just sitting @ idle ?

All advise welcome ( including carbs & new dizzy)

Thanks !

- M

this happened to my car....

i ended up toasting my engine...


b

WHHHAAAT ?

that's not good.....

- M

I've had the same issue with my blue a/xer, '73 2.0 d-jet. White smoke, rich smell, hard to start then starts runs like crap then runs like a raped ape. I'll watch this thread and see what develops.

turns out what was going on...

it's a cycle...

runs good, then lean....then not at all

i floor it while cranking, it backfired for a bit....started, ran on three cylinders or maybe even two and then ran fine.....until it happened again...

i was taking some ramps back to sears when i hear THAP! WAP WAP WAP WAP WAP WAP WAP WAP WAP....

#1 spark plug shot out of the head....excellent! third time it happened to me....engine was gone.



i *HIGHLY SEVERLY RECOMMEND* you get this checked out stat...

I started with fuel pump related stuff....didnt get to the electrical things...our very own miles hendrix mentioned checking the fuel pump relay....his turned off every few moments for a very short time...he can tell you...

definately was *NOT* the fuel filter....


b

Intermittent problems like this are often due to poor electrical connections. Check your grounds first, then unplug and re-plug all the FI connections, even (especially) the one to the brain. As you are unplugging, check to see if the connector is corroded or the wire is fraying.

I had a CHT sensor go bad, it would show a value when cold (which was correct), but once it starting warming up it would short out. I would check there first.

Thanks Guys,

I did change the CHT ... that was my thought too.... have checked for all the obvious.... we'll see how she does tomorrow?
I am not wanting to switch to carbs....but !




- M

QUOTE (wheelo @ Aug 29 2005, 08:56 PM)

I changed the CHT sender

check and double check the CHT wire as well. sometimes the insulation has come off in parts and it grounds out.

i does sound like a failing CHT even thought you said you replaced it.
Andy

Disconnect all FI connections and clean them well with a clean rag and electrical contact cleaner (do make sure that the battery is disconnected while you do all of this). Then to make sure they are dry hit the connections with some compressed air. Get yourself a digital multimeter and check for continuity on all wires that can be probed. I would also replace the cheap stuff (battery ground strap, tranny ground strap, bosch coil, cap, rotor, wires, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter). All battery connections should be cleaned with a wire brush. Also, swap out the round relays in the relay board with the ones from your headlight motors since you know that those do work. Get new fuses for the relay board and clean those connections with an emory board or fine sandpaper. You can also probe the relay board for continuity to ensure that all sodered connections are fine. If possible, swap the relay board with a known working one. The relay boards were the same for all engines with just the relay board covers being different (some accommodate a threaded rod opening which allows you to place a screw on top of the board cover).
If it's the fuel pump relay for sure and swapping the round relay for a good one doesn't help, then just run a wire from any ignition activated fuse on the fuse box to the fuel pump. Probe each fuse with the ignition off and then on to see which one becomes LIVE after you turn on the car. This is just another way of bypassing the fuel pump relay and will only turn on the pump when the ignition is turned on. In case you don't know, the fuel pump only has two connections. A brown wire goes to ground and the other wire (think it's black with a stripe) is the positive wire. Just run your wire from the fuse box to the wire that is not brown on the fuel pump and you will get it to run.
A bouncing tack will let you know that the points are pretty burnt so I'd also replace those and set the timing and dwell angle. If possible, upgrade to a pertonix or compufire. These two seem to make a lot of FI issues go away. I once had a 1.8 with erratic idling and surging/stalling that just went away when I converted to a pertronix system and installed a new bosch blue coil and wires.
Lastly, I would say to just be patient and work through the problems. Test every thing that you can and take a systematic approach. Test and rule out one thing each day/night. No sense ruling anything out just because you think that it's fine. I just finished swapping out the engines in my two 914's (a 2.0 and a 1.8) and while the 2.0 fired right up the 1.8 sat in the garage for three weeks until I figured out what it was. Check this out. The car would start and promptly die. After testing the fuel pump, swapping relays, testing the relay board itself with and without relays installed, I finally decided to just try starting fluid to see if it would start and stay on. It did. At that point I knew that the car was not getting any gas through the injectors since the pump DID work. I then traced all the fuel injectors back to the FI connections on the air/fuel meter and found the bad connection (notice I did not say loose - it connects just not tight enough). Hang in there! You can and will fix it.