So I'm about to start the tear down of the rear end to swap out the axle that has a blown CV joint.

But the issue I will have is how do I keep the axle from turning while I try to loosen the Axle bolt's out of the Transmission?

Any Tips?

I really want to make it to the ECC so I have to get this swap done as quickly as possible.

Thanks in Advance.

Yeah man, put it in gear and have someone hold the wheel on the other side.

QUOTE (nein14-6 @ Aug 30 2005, 10:32 AM)

Yeah man, put it in gear and have someone hold the wheel on the other side.

Nope, the spider gears in the differential will rotate and the flange will still spin.

Try a strap wrench on the body of the CV.

So how tight are these bolts anyway? Will someone actually be able to hold the wheel? Can you get the car up in the air high enough on one side to do the job or should the whole rear be up to get access.

Thanks

Can you put an air gun on the bolts to get them off without spinning the axle?

Will it snap off the bolts?

Should I pre soak the bolts as well?

Thanks

Torque spec is only 31 lbs. Make sure you clean all the grime out of the bolt head first so you don't strip them. Probably 12 point (triple square) but may be allen hex. Shouldn't be too hard to hold with a strap wrench or even a large pipe wrench.

The CV bolts shoud be torqued down to 31ft lbs. I don't see why you are worried about the axle or flanges turning while you remove it. I usually undo my CV's while rolling the axle, rotate untill a bolt is at the 7 o'clock position, remove, turn the axle to the next bolt at the same 7 o'clock position and on and on until it is removed. THe only indexing that needs to be worried about is the roll pins into the flanges - and you can rotate the axle, turn the wheel or turn the trans flange to get there. No secret magic required.

I've never had a problem just goin' for it. In fact, it's easier if you can rotate the axle to get it in position for each bolt as said above. Sometimes a light hand on the tire is enough to keep things still.

QUOTE (Travis Neff @ Aug 30 2005, 02:33 PM)

I don't see why you are worried about the axle or flanges turning while you remove it.

He said he's got a blown CV - I take that to mean that it will not be connected to the tire because the CV is destroyed.

Ok, but it sounds like it is still attached, no? I guess a better illustration of the damage is in order.

Put on the parking brake and put it in gear. Yeah, you can turn over the engine if you put enough torque on it, but those bolts shouldn't be that tight.

I'm getting ready to drop my motor and was wondering about using a 12pt with an impact wrench too... I'm lazy. Any problems with doing that?

-Aaron

first let me clarify the damage.

The CV joint is blown completly the ball cage is destroyed and the balls are floating around in the boot. The axle moves up down front back at the wheel joint. The reason I am worried about the bolts coming out has to do with a bad experience I once had with an 1987 Acura crankshaft bolt that caused me weeks of nightmares.

Long story short I sold that car because I could not get the bolt off to swap the timing belt. (it was an Acura not worth saving anyway)

I guess my fear is that I will not be prepared when I get under the car and I will be stuck with a seized bolt that will need to be cut off and eaZy-outed. Oh and the trans side CV's are uber greasy and I don't know if a strap wrench will hold.

Hey my luck just runs like that.

OK, what I said before for technique - go for it. As stated before holding the wheel while you loosen can help, so can ebrake and/or setting the car in gear to loosen up the bolts. However, doing it that way (locking the wheel/trans) takes a little longer as you need to rotate the axle as you undo the bolts (the 7 o'clock position gives the most room to work). Good luck, it will come out.

I guess I'm the lone ranger here, but if it were me I would remove the 30mm nut (cheater bar, partner inside with foot on the brake), disconnect inner CV at tranny, and remove axle to the bench. It is a pain to work inside the trailing arm. Last time I tried I had a half a gasket "glued" to the stub axle which was a bitch to clean off. Only caution, do not roll the car with the stub axle out of the hub or you can destroy the wheel bearing.

QUOTE (Porsche Rescue @ Aug 30 2005, 04:59 PM)

I guess I'm the lone ranger here, but if it were me I would remove the 30mm nut (cheater bar, partner inside with foot on the brake), disconnect inner CV at tranny, and remove axle to the bench. It is a pain to work inside the trailing arm. Last time I tried I had a half a gasket "glued" to the stub axle which was a bitch to clean off. Only caution, do not roll the car with the stub axle out of the hub or you can destroy the wheel bearing.

Yep, your going to have to do that to get the outer CV off the stub most likely.

And unless the trans is a limited slip, you can hold the input shaft and other axle all you want - the flange with the broken CV is still going to turn.

Don't bother....disconnect the inside CV.....remove the wheel, remove the cotter pin in the castle nut, put wheel back on, drop the car to the ground, ebrake on, in gear.....

Long 3/4 breaker bar, with cheater pipe over it.....set at nine o'clock, jump on it....crack, spin off nut, using a "suitable drift"....love that word....pound out the axle....yer done.

QUOTE (James Adams @ Aug 30 2005, 03:58 PM)

And unless the trans is a limited slip, you can hold the input shaft and other axle all you want - the flange with the broken CV is still going to turn.

Not true unless you have the transmission in neutral. So put it in gear and it will lock the broken output flange.

QUOTE (Demick @ Aug 30 2005, 06:09 PM)

Not true unless you have the transmission in neutral. So put it in gear and it will lock the broken output flange.

Yep you're right, I had both wheels off the ground situation stuck in my mind .

BTW. I use an air ratchet to remove the CV bolts. Takes them right out. But I don't think I would use any power tools unless you have had the bolts out within the last 2 or 3 years. If you've never had them out before, you don't know how hard they might be stuck - and there is no better way to strip the head than to use a power tool.

Demick

You guys are thinking too much about this problem.

Well thanks for all the advice.
I'm still waiting to hear back from a member on some axles so It might be a few days before I can do this. Hopefully I will get to the ECC in my teener.