I have a tuna can on my freshly transplanted 2.0 I got the engine used, but came with a brand new tuna can uninstalled. It leaked around the flange, I used a sump screen gasket which I think I gaskacinched in place. I swapped engines and changed the oil, while doing so I put in a new gasket and crush washer dry. It leaks pretty bad now. The mounting flange looked fine to me, clean too. Obviously I have a low spot on the tuna can, or the mounting flange is not flat.

I am going to drain out the oil and try again, but figured I would ask before I end up in the same boat.

I hate to say it but black RTV is your friend there. It's going to leak around the bolt which you cannot torque down too hard, and possibly around where it sits in the bottom of the sump.

Before I put my tunacan on, I glued some 1000 grit to a sheet of glass and sanded it down smooth. Then a new seal and a a small bit of RTV around the bolt opening and no leaks ever since.

OK, I'll give that a shot. Not leaking fromt the bolt, but the front 1/2 of the can where it mounts to the block.

DO NOT USE IT. There was a run of BAD units.

Contact Pelican or Performance to see it can get a replacment.

Ken

QUOTE (KenH @ Sep 3 2005, 02:00 PM)

DO NOT USE IT. There was a run of BAD units. Contact Pelican or Performance to see it can get a replacment. Ken

yep.

they made the spacer/pickup thing too long. impossible to seal without thick gaskets or grinding the pickup.

AA

Okey dokey, I'll check that out carefully

Yup--check that out (I wish I knew the measurements of the good & bad parts!!), and sand down the top of the Tuna Can with some wet-dry paper on a piece of glass. Then you can use the top of the Can itself as a "known flat surface" to sand the bottom of the case with--you'll have to cut out a ring of sandpaper and glue it onto the top of the can.

--DD

You could smear some valve grinding compound onto the lip, then lap it into the case, much like cylinders into the heads?

I might try that on my 1.8L I'm putting back together...

Tom

The real problenm is where the two halfs of the case mate up. It is not a flat connection for the can to seal to. I worked mine as best I cound but it a bitch to get it there. I have an oil Automotion t-can and the length is correct. I'll measure it tomorrw.

I worked the mating surface of the t-can with 1000 grit paper on a piece of glass and found it to be pretty true across the surface. I took the anodizing off pretty evenly.

I can see a big variance in mounting on the rear of the sump surface of your block, Mine most likely is at the front. I did take a flat file to the top of it being sure to cross both sides of the can when I first put it in - not much just enough to break a little of the anodizing free and to be sure it was flat as I could make it. Good info everyone!