ok, i guess i need to get used to this every third day brakedown, anyways... My clutch made a pop noise just 5 min ago and it went all the way down... Broken cable? anyone who could help me on this one?

I heard a pop while i was shifting into first at at stop light and it felt like something went out of tention or something, as you guys can see i am in need of knowledge

thanks

Generally a failure that sudden is gonna be a cable failure, although it could be the pedal roll pin or the tube coming adrift from the body. The Cap'n

Sounds like the cable to me. Other possibilities could be the pedal cluster failing (probably not), busted pressure plate or throwout arm came free from the pivot joint.

is it a major thing to get fixed? aka $$$$$$$$$

when i look underneat the car i see a cable that are "hanging" looser and further towards the ground than others....

Look underneath, you will see a cable coming about 1/2 way down the tranny attached to a pulley. If the cable is totally slack, your cable is probably busted. New cable is not too much, and is not too tough of a job DIY

ok here is the pic straight off the camera.... clutch cable?

what the arrow is pointing to is the speedo cable.....

the shiny piece just behind the kink in the picture is the clutch pulley. look at that cable....

Here's the clutch cable.

so it might not be the cluch cable? i looked at that cable and all i can see is that it has a weird curve (looks broken inside the rubber) just where it turns towards the back of the car.. anyone in san diego who wants to help and have some sunday fun under neath my car?

get a friend to watch the clutch cable at the rear of the car.

when you push the pedal, the cable should pull the clutch fork that goes into the bell housing. If it does not move then its either the cable or something in the pedal assembly.

How to replace cutch cabe directions HERE.

God luck.
Roger

Christopher,
Now the you know which is the clutch cable and which is the spedo cable you can do a simple test. Grab hold of the cable sheath where it goes into the car's chassis (center bottom of the car, forward from the engine) and give it a tug. If it pulls right out then you know the cable was broken. If it is tight then the problem is elsewhere (like the rollpin the Cap'n mentioned).

Get a Haynes manual - it will be a great resource to you for this sort of thing.

-Ben M.

i have ordered that manual but it was on low stock so i hope i'll gett it within 2 weeks.. i checkt the cable, pulled it hard a couple of times and the cable responds like it should i think... it made the clutch noise if you know what i mean..

the thing is that my CLUTCH PEDAL is loose, it seams like it broke either where the cable meets the pedal or something with the PEDAL itself.... its just dead laying fully pressed in...

that other cable is your speedo cable, if that broke you have no speedo. Sounds like your clutch cable or roll pin on your pedal cluster failed. Pull back the carpet by the pedals, remove the wooden pedal board and have a look see and report back

i will report back on that tomorrow, have to head up to LA now casue i'm a hockey coach here in San Diego... Good start not being able to drive myself.. oh well, thanks for all help for now and i'll take a look and take pictures and maybe you can help me through that way

I took away the carpet and the wood piece infront of the pedal assembly, and the clutch pedal is just "dead" anyone know from the pictures what i can do about it???

Take a look at the base of the clutch pedal, it is held onto the shaft with a roll pin, check to see if the clutch pedal moves freely of the shaft that it is on. If it seems like one piece ( like it should be) your cable has probably broken

so look at where i have my 2 arrows? the shaft is in one piece just loose from the rest of the pedals... i wish i knew more.. well, i guess im in he learning process, hope you guys have patience with me..

Sounds like the roll pin that holds the pedal to the shaft broke.

QUOTE (Headrage @ Sep 4 2005, 01:12 PM)

Sounds like the roll pin that holds the pedal to the shaft broke.

ok, Does anyone have a picture of Where the Roll pin is located? Am I able to see it from the view i have shown in my photos??

the pedal itself can function as it is supposed to, but when i have it all the way towards me it just falls all the way back to the floor...

Here is the roll pin. It is a metal pin that is pressed through the clutch pedal arm and through the shaft, check to see if the pin is broken by seeing if the shaft stays put when you move the clutch arm

QUOTE (Travis Neff @ Sep 4 2005, 01:33 PM)

if the pin is broken by seeing if the shaft stays put when you move the clutch arm

explain further please, stay put? while i'm moving the clutch it semas fine, although i can feel that its not attached to anything but a lever that can't stay in the upright position.. i tried to demonstrate that in my photos when i'm showing my arm, in the first photo i have t hold the pedal up, and then in the second i let go...

if this would be easier to explain over the phone my #: 858-353-5459

IF its "just" the Roll Pin, is it an easy fix?

THANKS

(i'm looking through MAMOTORWORKS catalog, and all i can find is RETAINING PIN, is that the same as a ROLL PIN?"

Pedal cluster rebuild kit.

I hate to tell you, you are going to have to remove the pedal cluster.. doesn't sound like you want to..

Eric Shea has rebuilt pedal clusters.. for.. I think $175 with a core.. it's in the .. here..

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...=ST&f=4&t=27994

Woo! $129!

The cable is connected, still?



M

i'm crying rivers here what can you do than laugh at it.. So how do I determaine if I should order a cluster or not?

You might be able to check for the sheered pin (#29) by moving the clutch pedel (#30) and checking for movement of the other end of the clutch rod (#34) in the tunnel.
Here's a picture...........

Yes, put one hand over on the right side of the cluster, then move the pedal.. did the arm on the other side move?

If 'no' or only 'sometimes', then you need a rebuild.

It's not hard to do, but it's more fun to make Eric work, and it'd take you as long to find the tools..



Installation can be a pain.. you have to remove the splash cover forward of the firewall, and under the car, then watch for whammys when you redo the cable connections... knots in the tunnel won't help you be happy.

Oh, and if you don't know when the last time the cables were changed, now is your chance.


M

QUOTE (redshift @ Sep 4 2005, 02:51 PM)

Yes, put one hand over on the right side of the cluster, then move the pedal.. did the arm on the other side move? If 'no' or only 'sometimes', then you need a rebuild.

It moves EVRY time, that must means that the cable is broken? Please say it must be so, and that I can do everything for about 50 bucks

i wouldnt have gotten this far without your help so lets go the full nine yards on this one... I just saw the light in the tunnel,

THANKS GUYS for helping!

On the diagram above it was #10 that bent on mine. The clevis pulled out of the pedal arm. Acted the same as you described in your first post. POP...down to the floor.

Pull the carpet off the center and look in the inspection hole at the front. That will tell you if it is disconnected there or the cable is broken. If both ends are intact. it's the cable. Broken inside.

Sounds like the cable is busted. You can get a so called upgrade cable or the stock one. I am a fan of the stock unit.

what would the cost be to replace it or how would i go about doing a task like that. i know i'm not capable of doing it myself yet, butany shop or specific ones?

anyone know about one close to Pacific Beach in San Diego.. My mechanic i usually use is 25 miles away from here so towing would be pretty expensive, since i dont know anyone who has a trailer...

It's a easy fix that you can do yourself.

Buy a replacement cable (did you check the clevis end?).

Jack up the car on the right side and put a jackstand underneath it.

Undo the nut on the trans end of the cable (measure the amount of turns the nut is from the cable end first).

Undo the nut on the wheel that the cable goes around near the trans.

Now go to the inside of the car. Where you inspected the end of the cable where it attaches to the pedal assembly. Use a screwdriver or plyers to pop the clevis off the assembly.

Pull the cable forward (measure the amount the end on the cable is screwed on to the cable) and then unscrew it.

Go to the back of the car and pull the cable towards you.

Put the new cable in the the hole where the old cable came out of and then reassemble.

Reassembly is the reverse. Screw cable end on the same amount you measured. Attach to pedal cluster (small hands needed for this part). Loop over wheel at back. Tighten nut back (same amount you measured before at the clutch lever and go for a ride.

Time 2 hrs from start to jacking to back on the ground (includes tool droping and swearing time).

Cost to do this depends on if you have a jack & jackstands and about three different mertic wrenches. If you have to buy these...total cost under $100 (includes buying replacement cable)

This is versis paying a garage $100 + an hour & shop materials, + their markup on the cable that they will be buying from the same places you will.

If you need pics of the areas I've spoken about. Just ask.

But check the clevis end first to see if it is the same problem I had.....could save you all the work (in my case if I had it would have saved me $800 in plane fare (another story)

With a set of channel locks, a pair of pliers, and a screwdriver, I can do that swap with the passenger side jacked up on the factory jack in about 45 minutes, with practice.



The cool thing is adjusting your own clutch, I like mine a little different than most, I guess.


M

Those intructions are spot on. You will pay a shop about 1 hour of labor, plus your tow charge - do it yourself. The only gotcha that I can tell you while doing it is that you can easily wrap the clutch cable around your throttle cable when feeding it through. You will know if you did this when you push in the clutch and the engine rev's up. Just detach the clutch cable at the pedal cluster unwind it from the throttle and reattach.

Really it is a pretty easy job, you'll feel some satisfaction when you get your car going by yourself after your first speed bump.

wow,
I'm so glad I ended up here! I know i feel hopeless right now but hopefully i will be able to fix my car after a couple of months here, im reading and learning new stuff everyday!

If you could show me some pics that would be great! I couldnt find the hole you were talking about, i pealed the carpet back 10cm.. (i'm swedish so i go by metric still) and all i saw was a tiny hole not bigger than fitting 2 fingers in there... and i could feel the cable attatched to the right side of the pedal cluster... I also felt the speedo cable, and hopefully i felt right??

But all the pics you can find would be helpful... if not here email them

cbenitah@home.se

but i also think this could be something more than me can learn from... or maybe i'm the only newbie here?

(forgot the most important part, WHERE do i locate a cable? all i know about is www.mamotorworks.com) and that is a little bit to long of a wait... if you have any advice let me know

www.pelicanparts.com

It's a pretty quick wait.. sorry, I don't have any pictures. The tunnel ends there, with the hole you feel.. if you can get a mirror down there, with a light, and lay in the floor *take seat out... easy as pie* you can see all the way down, and diagnose a wrapped cable easily.

Are you a chef? (I ask all Swedes)

Miles

QUOTE (redshift @ Sep 5 2005, 01:01 AM)

Are you a chef? (I ask all Swedes)

my mom is if that helps..

so how long time is the order time usually?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearc...er=B-423-401-02


what exactly do i need here

This is the link that shows the cable replacement. It's for a 911 but it's almost the same as the 914.

I have a binder that I print out articles like this one and I keep them for reference.

There is a clevis (fork) that holds the cable to the bell crank on the end of the clutch-pedal arm. The bell-crank and clevis are right next to the throttle-pedal in the center tunel. Check to make sure the clevis-ended cable is still attached to the bell-crank. I had a clevis fail once. I'd hate for you to order a new $45 cable only to find that it's the $5 clevis that is broken.

-Ben M.

QUOTE (airsix @ Sep 5 2005, 02:17 PM)

There is a clevis (fork) that holds the cable to the bell crank on the end of the clutch-pedal arm. The bell-crank and clevis are right next to the throttle-pedal in the center tunel. Check to make sure the clevis-ended cable is still attached to the bell-crank. I had a clevis fail once. I'd hate for you to order a new $45 cable only to find that it's the $5 clevis that is broken. -Ben M.

Me and my friend tried to make a go for it today, although without any new parts. But with a print out with all info i got here...

We found that the clutch cable has tention at the center tunnel and where it comes out underneath the car.. Couldnt find where the "CLEVIS" would be.. it felt like i just needed to tention the cable and then i would be fine? But i'm not sure, could it be broken and still feel like there were tention?

QUOTE (cbenitah @ Sep 5 2005, 01:26 AM)

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearc...er=B-423-401-02 what exactly do i need here

This is what you need

I4020-22865 Clutch Cable
I4020-22865 Gemo $26.83



From GPR