OK folks I've had a blonde moment here and got myself in a situation where I may have to replace the return fuel line. I've been staring at it scratching my head when I realized that the lines in the engine bay are the normal nylon but by the time we get to the front trunk they are steel. If the joint between the two of them is accessible I may be able to fix our blunder. Everything I've read and seen here says the plastic goes all the way to the front. I've had a look with an inspection mirror but can't see where the joint might be.

#1. Is this a stock config? I've owned this car since 74 and can assure you that I haven't replaced the lines. Perhap the original owner did but it seem a little far fetched to do it on a new car.

#2. If this is a familiar setup can you tell me where to look for the joint. I would suspect the firewall but don't see anything there.

#3. Just in case. The front rubber grommet - how does it come out. It looks like it wants to push out from the inside. Any hints on how to do this without buggering up the grommet.

Steve

what you are seeing IS the stock configuration. There is about 1.5 feet of steel tubing as it passes the forward firewall, it is barbed on one end where the plastic lines have been pressed on. You can get replacement lines from the dealer, others have mentioned that you can get a comparable line at McMasterCarr.com

You can get the grommet out from under the gas tank with a large flat bladed screwdriver, take your time it will come out.

Thanks Travis. That would put the joint right around the shifter - hard to get at. I'll probably have to pull the whole line out which should be interesting with the bend and all the obstructions. We have a, ahem, obstruction, stuck in the front of the line. Just out of tweezer reach. As a last ditch I may try trimming back the line a quarter inch with it still in place - then I should be able to get our probe. Going to be interesting to find the right tool though. Don't want to use the dremel on a steel gas line. I'll try nipping along the length with side cutters. See how much mess I can make.

If you can, save the original line since it's very good material.

If there is only one of them in question, you can pull it from the rear firewall, but before you need to pull the steel part (from the front access pannel) inside the center tunnel. That will spare you the grommet story.

It's not a difficult job, I had to take out the return line since it was completely blocked with varnish from old fuel.

I don't know how bad the obstruction is but what does prevent you from running fluid or air in the reverse direction like backflushing, maybe it will get the thing out.

QUOTE (mihai914 @ Sep 3 2005, 04:34 PM)

I had to take out the return line since it was completely blocked with varnish from old fuel.

yuppa. That would be the one. The used fuel pump I got from Mark developed enough pressure to pop off the return line fitting in the engine bay but didn't move the plug. Tried compressed air from the front and was able to develop about 60 psi but nothing moved.

We're sure that the plug is up in the steel line right at the firewall - we could feel it with a plastic diddle stick. Devon was working with carb cleaner and a thin coat hanger trying to dig it out when he broke the coat hanger wire off.

If I followed you right you were able to disconnect the plastic from the steel inside the tunnel? How the heck did you get your fingers in there?

BTW. I'm really impressed with your progress. Mine won't need quite that much work but I don't trust myself to do it. Will have to get a pro.

the steel terminates forward of the shifter, probably not possible to get your fingers in there. You could remove the forward grommet, then pull the lines out into the engine compartment - then work from there.

My line was plugged with stuff over several inches.

What I did is completely remove the whole line assembly (it is impossible to remove the plastic line from the metal part without cutting, note that I didn't cut anything).

Now you have good access, I used a combination of a coat hanger and compressed air at over 100 PSI to start.

See I used a sturdy coat hanger, inserted and started twisting followed by compressed air both ways.

Eventually I managed to get some air through; at that point I used a simple flushing device to flush the whole line in both directions with thinner.

If you have time, you can try and figure out some hydraulic method of popping the obstruction out or got to a hydraulic shop that may have some solution.

And BTW I'm not a pro and never did anything like it before my project, all the skills and info are available here, you just need patience and thought. If you put your mind to it you can do it also. And the only person you can trust to do the best work IS yourself, that's why it's called labor of love.

Good luck!

I'm truly in awe of what you and some of the others have done. I must admit that you guys have given me a real strong desire to do this thing right - strip it down to the bare tub. Fix every bit of rust. POR the crap out of it and send it to the best paint shop in town. Redo all the rubber - the whole enchillada.

But then reality sets in. I have a very small garage. We are working outside now so it is comfortable but soon we'll have to move inside and there is no room to do rustoration in the garage - basic work only. I have no welding equipment or experience. No compressor. We are also working on a bit time line. My son and I have talked it over and what we have agreed on goes something like this.

First priortity is to get it running. If the engine blows up then the project is dead and we pass the car on to someone with more resources. All we have done back there is fuel pump, lower fuel lines and all the air hoses.

Second priority it to get it safe. We've started doing the brakes - rebuilding calipers, new rotors, flex lines. Maybe master cylinder - haven't got that far yet. Going to need shocks/strut cartridges too - still have the originals on.

Third priority - stop the rust. Even if we run out of money with the project the car is really worth saving. We are going to get all the old sound deadening material off and POR everything we can see rust or possibility of rust on.

This winter we want to send the tub down to Mikes 914s and have him do the type of metal repair you have done. We'll do all the prep work to keep the cost down. I've spoken to a couple of guys who have used him and they all rave about his work. We'll get a paint job done, then reassemble and put her on the road this spring.

Thanks for the help with the fuel line. What we really need here is the worlds smallest rotorooter! Devon had already got about an inch of movement when he twisted the wire off so it has to be just about out. Never the less I think I'm going to bite the bullet and take the line out. Probably be less agro in the long run.

Cover me - I'm going in.

just a follow up for reference.

I didn't listen well enough to what mihai was saying - just pull the line through the grommet - don't remove the grommet. Same applies at the rear end.

There are two bendable tabs inside the tunnel. One is at about the rear end of the shifter hole. The other is just to the rear of the back most wiring harness hole. I had to pop them to pull it out the back because of the bend in the steel part of the line.

The clog was a real bear. Much better to take it out to work on it.

Here's a pic of the line

and a close up of the joint.