I have been wondering what all is involved, labor-wise, and how much of it I could sanely tackle myself with my somewhat limited tools and mechanical capabilities.

The "parts-list" has been regurgitated over and over again, but I don't recall ever seeing a detailed write-up of the actual conversion procedure. Anybody know of one? I'd like to learn more about the oil tank installation, throttle cable setup, etc.

It would take a book. There are so many variations.
I have never seen a COMPLETE write up on it.....seen some halfassed ones, tho.

As for tools. Most are fairly common.
Access to a welder is nice for certain stuff (See variations). Hole saws and a drill motor to swing em' are a must (but you know someone to borrow that stuff from). A plasma cutter works, but......

The thing to avoid (trust me) is the "while I'm here" syndrome (DWD). That is a time killer. Block off 3-4 months of all your spare time. The only way to avoid this is to have someone else do it.

don't know if you've seen this but it's at least an overview so you get an idea what's involved.http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914-6_construction_kit/914-6_info_guide.htm

"I'd like to learn more about the oil tank installation"

What type of tank are you gonna use?
Stock /6 or velios type tank in the stock location?

In that case, all the cut-outs are prestamped in engine compartment sheetmetal (driver side)
The tank has 2 studs that bolt through the sheetmetal
You need to make 2 holes for oillines, 1 for the filter console and 1 for the filler neck
The space where the tank sits between the inner and outer fender is pretty tight, so it will take you some and patience to align it into place

If you want, I can take some pics...

What else you're gonna use for your conversion

What engine mount (Rich Johnson mount is advised)?
Unless you are gonna use a 'speed bar', you can cut away the /4 engine mounts from the frame.

Are you gonna install the engine tin/sheetmetal (if not, you can grind out a lot of unneeded sheetmetal from the eng.compartment)

Errr... to much stuff, just shoot specific questions you have and I'm sure you'll get loads of info

cheers,

Jeroen

I will probably have the shop do the majority of the work, at least the stuff where plasma cutters, welders, lifts etc are needed. But I might tackle certain tasks myself. Time is more of an issue than money, overall. (Not that money isn't a big issue too). Saturday morning and anything I can squeeze in (quietly) on work nights between about 9pm-midnight is all I can possibly put in.

I acquired a Vellios bulkhead mount (weld-in type) at a good price. I'll be using a factory tank. Probably the Rich Johnson style throttle bellcrank kit and basically all the other "standard" conversion stuff. The car will be running headers and megaphones and I might leave the tin off as discussed in a previous thread. It will be carbed and conventional dizzy/coil/CDI single-plug ignition. So really it should be a pretty clean install, basically just factory-clone stuff. "Dirk Wright Syndrome" should be minimal. Replacing the fuel system (with a cell, new lines, pumps, filters etc) is about the only deviation from normal street conversions.

One reason I asked about existing write-ups is that I will plan to take a significant number of pics, video and notes if nobody's really done that kind of documentation (online) before.

I bought the booklet Auto Atlanta has on 914 6 conversion. It is not very well detailed but dose have som usful info and templates for oil tank mounting. I don't think it is worth $30.00 tho.

Jerry

Rich's throttle bellcrank setup is, as far as I can tell, an exact replica of the factoyr 914-6 setup. Pelican sells a bolt-on (no drilling and tapping required, as in the factory setup) bell-crank setup that uses the stock four-cylinder throttle cable. None of them are cheap...

--DD

If you're going to use the stock 6er tank, I can enlighten you a bit.
Oli lines are the biggest headache.
You are undoubtly gonna want an exerrnal cooler (if you don't , your engine will ). Braided lines (or maybe some of them Teflon covered jobbies) are gonna require
2 AN to metric adaptors. One on the inlet to the tank, one on the engine...scavenge side. (Otto's got em')Even if you don't put on an ex.cooler, the AN lines will allow you to break into the lines at some future date.....after the engine gets too damn hot
Summit or Racers Warehouse (Wholesale?) for lines and fittings.

The feed side is pretty straight forward. A rubber, 2 piece line is available. Tank to below the cooler...metric fittings. Otto's can do the cooler mod. The rubber line sold these days is almost the right length....just a bit long. As a result, it tends to wanna collapse/kink. Hose clamps (I use 3) will prevent this. Smart Camber sells a support to prevent this, also. You DON'T want this line to collapse durring high suction conditions.

You also wanna take a look at an exploded view of the stock tank install. There are rubber isolators at the mounting studs....also at the feed line at the bottom, which doubles as a mounting point.....don't pass these up. The exploded view also shows all the stuff needed at the oil filter console.

Vent the tank to a catch can. I put mine in the rear trunk.
The oil tank WILL pump out oil while racin'.

Peice of cake, eh?

BTW, while I have the car up in the air, are there any specific pics you want?

Tony Inae had a pretty good pictoral of the conversion process.

I don't have the URL with me but could probably dig it up.

Regarding the tube under the engine oil cooler i got mine modified by cutting the tube back and getting an AN fitting welded on to it.

Installing the engine mount, drilling the holes for the tank and installing the accel linkage on the tranny is pretty straight forward.

Here you go:
Tony Inae's site

Justin