I need to determine what oil filter is needed to do an oil change on a stock 914-6 and I came up with nothing using the search function. I am not sure if anyone else has issues with the search functions, but I never can find what I am looking for.

In summary, this is what I need:

1. Oil Filter for stock 914-6
2. Type of oil to use
3. Quick summary of how to do an oil change
4. How much does it take

And yes, I have a 914 manual but it is packed away with everything else in preparation for my move to OR.

-Britain

not sure the manual would help. (I'm looking at mine now) It does say approx 9L (9.5qts) of oil tho.

kim.

y'ok. Folks w/btdt will chime in soon I'm sure. I'm now recollecting things tho -- on a 911 you drain the oil tank (lots o'oil) and then the engine. I'm pretty sure the /6 tank doesn't have a drain in it, and you have to crack one of the hoses to drain it and my notes from the woods/anderson class mention that it can be messy cracking the hose. (no, I've never done this -- hence no real btdt info in this post :-))

No mention of the oil filter type in either set of notes.

kim.

Mine uses:

Oil Filter: Mann W-940 or equivalent
Oil: about 9-10 quarts of high quality oil

I use Shell Rotella in all my vehicles, the brand of oil you use is open to endless debate, conjecture by alleged experts etc. you wont go worong with a name brand oil.. the viscosity you use depends on temperature, and application

914/6 owners manual describes the process as follows:

1. Witht the engine warm, remove the oil drain plug. Disconnect the oil line between the oil tank and the engine (see illustration)

(Note: the illustration shows the splitting of the two oil lines where they are connected under the left hand longitudinal)

2. Drain the oil completely from the engine and the oil tank

3. Remove the oil strainer, clean and reinstall. Observe instruction carefully

4. Replace the filter element as described in the maintenance schedule (Note every 6,000 miles)

5. Clean the ol drain plug, reinstall and tighten. Connect the oil line between engine and oil tank.

6. Add 9.5 U.S. quarts of brand-name HD engine oil to the oil tank (see page 86)

7. Close the oil tank

8. Run the engine and check the oil level at idle speed as soon as the oil is warm (at least 60deg C or 140deg F). The engine must run until the oil level stabilizes (about 1/2 minute).

9. Stop the engine and add more oil if required.

1 - Mahle OC-61 as used on '65->'71 911. '72+ is different.

2 - 20W50 dino or 15W-50 synthetic

3 - using BIG drain container remove plug from sump plate. remove sump plate and strainer. examine strainer for chunks; clean, re-install using two large gaskets and new copper seal rings from the oil change kit you purchased with the oil filter. do not overtighten the 6mm fasteners lest you warp the strainer and plate or break/strip the studs. if your plate is warped by PO overtightening, the Mainely Custom By Design billet aluminum replacement is excellent. the strainers are NLA. install the drain plug using a new copper seal ring; tighten.

reposition the drain pan to below the left trailing arm. using two large (32 & 36?) open-end wrenches, disconnect the oil line fittings provided for this purpose. following the drain, reconnect the lines, taking great care not to cross-thread the aluminum fittings.

place a shop towel under the oil filter; remove. clean any spills, lightly lubricate the seal ring on the new filter, install.

4 - 9 liters with filter change.

use only Mahle, Mann, Knecht, or other quality filter. AVOID FRAM.

Rich,

use only Mahle, Mann, Knecht, or other quality filter. AVOID FRAM. ,
care to expand on this?

fram has continuously proven to suck hard....

the filters have been shown through extensive testing to have a severe shunting of oil flow within the engine....not good for those who care......The Britt

Take a look at: Oil filter study and be sure to check out the link - See this email from an Allied Signal production engineer.

QUOTE (0396 @ Sep 5 2005, 10:09 AM)

AVOID FRAM. , care to expand on this?

they're junk. they explode. the internal filter elements collapse. and they don't filter well.

also - these (Allied Signal, IIRC) are the filters sold under MANY other names.

An Oil Filter Test Page ; there are others. a search will turn up many; most reach essentially the same conclusions. (i wouldn't be surprised to find a test that said Fram is fine, but i'd be looking at a sponsorship connection if i found such a test...)

there are lots of good oil filters.

the Mobil-1 filter gets good reviews, as does (IIRC) the K&N -- but they only make filters for '72+ 911's (IOW - won't fit a 914/6 with an OEM oil tank). they may have a version that fits 914/4 - i donno, i have no reason to check it out.

Fram does a HUGE amount of marketing to sell their products, so it's no surprise they ar a highly recognised name in the area. however, testing has cosistently shown why they suck. they much be a huge profit center for Allid Signal.

interestingly, the WIX filters sold by NAPA typically test well, which may help you some cold, dark weekend when you're on the road in the middle of nowhere.

but my cars get Mahle...

When ordering from the various parts houses I usually have them toss in a few of the little hole and big hole German filters.....I have early 914/6 and later model 911 oil tanks.......

Like noted above the FRAM filters bite the weenie....gud advertising...but low quality. Plus there is the matter of the Porsche oil valve and other items....

Never trust a filter that has ten different applications for the same filter.

Oil capacity varies if have an external cooler or not.....

Best to change oil after a spirted run so that the thermostat has opened.....

Remember to replace tank and engine plugs.....fill oil tank with 7-8 quarts, warm up engine check level.....take it for a drive check again...

a slight hijack but related: anybody know what is the proper filter to use with the aluminum conversion tank (it was supplied by Patrick or GPR I think). Also, has there been a thread on installing a valve/plug or other way to drain the tank without undoing a hose?

QUOTE (goose2 @ Sep 5 2005, 12:57 PM)

anybody know what is the proper filter to use with the aluminum conversion tank (it was supplied by Patrick or GPR I think). has there been a thread on installing a valve/plug or other way to drain the tank without undoing a hose?

this came up within the last 30 days, i can't recall by who. big long thread on whether or not it was necessary to run an anti-collapse spring in the suction line.

IAC - you want the filter from a '72+ 911.

IMO - just open the line. that's why there's a connection in it. anything else is just going to be a leak point or a restriction.

i suppose if i had a tank out and available for modification, i'd add a fitting to the bottom and add a hose with an AN hose end, and use a metal AN plug - suitably safety-wired, of course...

Thanks Rich....maybe I'll pull the tank when I pull the motor for the 3.0 swap and see about installing a drain plug....I hate undoing those lines every time, bound to bugger something up eventually. Present filter is a Mahle OC-54...that sound right?

QUOTE (goose2 @ Sep 5 2005, 01:33 PM)

...Present filter is a Mahle OC-54...that sound right?

look for the earlier thread; the specific filter number was referenced.

but the early cars definitely take an OC-61 which that's not, so it's possible...

QUOTE (Britain Smith @ Sep 4 2005, 10:39 PM)

I am not sure if anyone else has issues with the search functions, but I never can find what I am looking for.

Yes, it's amazing and frustrating but I don't completely blame the search function criteria. People have all sorts of titles that are inside jokes, lead in's, attention grabbing, etc. You can try to remember who posted and search their ID (correctly spelled), use other related words, spend more "fun" hours of searching the site. Maybe 914ers are not geared to be fast and efficient.

With the GPR aluminum tanks, you can use a early or later style oil filter console, which would determine which filter you'd need.

When I plumb a car with AN fittings, I always use a T fitting instead of a union; where the two suction lines connect on the driver's side (from the bottom of the engine oil cooler to the bottom of the tank). This way you can drain the oil tank, but most oil will come out of the crankcase.

Always get the engine to operating temperature before draining the oil. As Z said, the thermostat is open, but also so any particulates will get suspended in the oil and evacuated.

I pull the 3 or 6 pin connector out of the CD box after an oil change, and crank the engine (at 20 sec intervals) until the oil pressure gauge moves a little.

I've had some good recomendations on oil, so I also have used Rotella, but the most recent recomendation is Valvoline VR straight 40 weight. I would avoid multi viscosity oils in earlier Porsches. Multi visc oils tend to break down faster than single weight. If you live in a warm climate go with 40w or more moderate average ambient temps you can use a 30w.

Just my .02, your results may vary.

ps put some masking tape over the ignition switch so you won't ever crank the engine without oil. I've never done it, but I've heard horror stories.

The Last Oil Systems Thread

Left OC-54 Right OC-61

I was changing the oil in my '98 A4 and noticed the filter looks very much like the filter on my SIX..It turns out the filter's O-ring is the same diameter and the threads are the same?

Not sure what else there is to match up but it did fit

It was a pur-oil-later for my A4

Mahle in the SIX.

Mahle OC 54

so the two filters (and consoles) have radically different threads...pretty hard to install the wrong one. the "t" on the fitting sounds like an easy solution. thanks all

Velios alum. tank is OC 54 ('72 and later 911). There is no filter console, all one piece.

So, Britian, assuming you get your rides all packed away, when is your start date up in Ronler Acres?

I will move up that way on Sept. 26th. I start at Intel Oct. 3rd. What building do you work in?

-Britain

Close to yours. I understand from your previous mail that you will be a layer owner for 1264 Ramp. I worked for TD for 18 years and now work in Components Research. I have yellow light in my background. My extension is 3-6781. Give me a call when you get settled in and we can meet in the cafe some morning...or on the factory floor earlier. Jeff.