I would like to remove my rear trailing arms without messing up my alignment when I put them back. Can it be done? Where should I mark/scribe to ensure that they wind up in the same place they started?

you best bet is to pick a ride height and start taking measurements.....once you re-install the trailing arms, go back to that ride height and try to duplicate the dimensions

the problem is that if you have a failed rubber bushing, the new replacement parts are going to make the axle located differently than before within the trialing arm...

I'm ok with that possibility. But if nothing is wrong I don't want to lose my $$ rear alignment for no reason.

2nd question, what do you recommend to drive in rear wheel bearings? I don't have any 3" sockets around.

QUOTE (jkeyzer @ Sep 6 2005, 12:18 AM)

I'm ok with that possibility. But if nothing is wrong I don't want to lose my $$ rear alignment for no reason. 2nd question, what do you recommend to drive in rear wheel bearings? I don't have any 3" sockets around.

Go to Home Depot and get a piece of pipe that is the correct diameter.

You can keep the camber, but the toe....no way.
You can do a coarse realignment with strings & things.

I've tried different ways of marking the location of the arms over the years. Pencil lines, tape, paint, measurements, but it only gets you close. And unless it was recently done, who knows it was right when you started.

I now do the string line method, it seems to work pretty well.

QUOTE (jkeyzer @ Sep 6 2005, 12:18 AM)

2nd question, what do you recommend to drive in rear wheel bearings? I don't have any 3" sockets around.

If you are not in a big hurry you can freeze the bearings over night, lay the trailing arm in the sun to heat up, then you can just drop the bearings right in.

QUOTE (pjhaun @ Sep 6 2005, 07:28 AM)

QUOTE (jkeyzer @ Sep 6 2005, 12:18 AM) 2nd question, what do you recommend to drive in rear wheel bearings?  I don't have any 3" sockets around. If you are not in a big hurry you can freeze the bearings over night, lay the trailing arm in the sun to heat up, then you can just drop the bearings right in.

I simply use a MAPP gas torch to heat the trailing arm bearing hub so that it is hot to the touch. Bearing drops right in without having to put it in the freezer. Oh, you will burn off any paint, however a quick rattle can touch up fixes that.

Andy

I put my bearings in the freezer overnight and was able to lightly tap them into the trailing arm using a plastic mallet the following day.

I just borked one of my rear bearings being overzealous trying to get the hub in though .

I have a peice of 1/2" allthread which I am using for the operation now.

The freezer thing is not new to me, but what I am looking for is the "suitable drift" to use to pound the outer races in. A piece of pipe should work, but finding one that is the exact diameter seems unlikely. I want to avoid pounding on the inner race.

Hit the perimiter of your trailing arm mount with a bit of spray paint, then you have a rough guide to get it back together. Will still need an alignment when done though.

Good idea Travis. Still weighing my options. I had a clunk in the rear of the car on accell. So I started taking things apart, found 4 heavily worn CV joints, which I think was the cause. But I am thinking about pulling the trailing arms off to take a look at the bushings and mounting ears. I have the brakes etc off so it's not much work to remove them, just trying to justify losing my $300 alignment that I just got last May... Of course realigning just the rear will be cheaper.