My rear window dropped from the adhesive that was holding it in and has a nasty rattle. How do I remove it to replace the adhesive? It looks like the padding comes out from the top and the bottom just lifts out. Also, what do you recommend to replace the damaged adhesive?

i think there is a tech article on it. i did mine recently. i took out my seats, bacpad, and the side bpillar trim pieces. pulled widow out into cockpit. getting the seal off sucks!!!!! the seal was impregnated w/ string... (30 yr old string)! not dun. search on PP for more info

You can take the old stuff off with leverage. Take time to paint any areas that chip away. I used the 3M window sealant that comes in a box at the local auto parts store. No regrets but it is a PITA to get on with getting it stuck to you. Its better done with 2 persons. Just get everything out of the way so you can install it cleanly.

Good luck!

I have done about nine rear windows and after removing the butyl adhesive on the first car, I decided to leave it in place on the next car and use an automotive adhesive from Goop. It is clear and takes about 24 hours to set. Works great and I have not a had any leaks or problems.
CCLINWORKSFORME

I misplaced the directions so here it goes from memory:
1. Remove targa top and engine lid(held on by 2 bolts underneath. Remember to mark the underside of the engine lid with tape or something so you can easily align it when reinstalling. To reinstall eng lid its easiest if the lid is in the most open possition. Otherwise there is too much torque and difficult to adjust.Remove outside weather seal along rear window.

2. Remove seats - there is a track rail underneath - push seat foward and then depress the locking pin underneath and pull out.
3. Remove center seat/storage bin
4. Remove coat hangers. Remove seat belts both upper by the targa bar and on the floor by the door.
4a. Remove the interior trim piece that the coat hangers were on.
5. Remove back bolster
a. remove screws on bottom
b. unscrew the engine lid release on the bolster by the drivers door striker
b. pull DOWN and out from the bottom - takes some manipulation because the brake is in the way.
Becarefull because the bolster is cardboard.

Now your ready to remove your glass - Refer to Daves method on that. seems like that would work best. The factory seals have a cord in them for ease of removal - youll see it in the old butyl tape - just pull on that once u get the window out.

Clean Clean Clean - both contact areas must be immaculate. touch up any areas that are bare metal.

Start at the top middle w/the tape and work around
and over lap. Have a friend help you with the window install. Make sure to use the spacers on the bottom - once the window is in place, press firmly along the edges to get a good seal.

Remember to finish off the bottom of the window with black electrical tape. Reinstall is reverse.

Using the towels behind the seats sounds like a great idea too. Let it sit for 24hrs or so.

Good luck - any questions call


__________________
Tod
75 light ivory 2.0
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....ighlight=window
Heres the PP thread -

Once all the trim is removed, the window will come out with a "little coaking" if it is already loose. Clean the window and the window frame. . Lacquer thinner, MEK, acetone,etc,etc, will cut the old adhesive. Be careful not to drip! Primer or paint all bare spots. Purchase a tube of black Urethane sealant from your local glass shop that will fit in a standard caulking gun. Run a half inch bead around the outside and reinstall glass. It will dry in half an hour. Urethane sealant is what we use in high rise commercial buildings. It will stand up to Hurricane force wind speeds. We also use it on windshields. Cost about 12 bucks for a tube.

Happy Happy!

Removing my rear window was twice as hard as any of you guys seem to have experienced. The bottom seal had a metal wire inside and the sealer that was used was hard as a rock. I managed to get a piece of cable through the top and pull it around the window edge until the window came loose. After cleaning and preping I used the same sealer used on the windshield and made sure it sealed in the corners known for leaking. Two people is highly recommended!

Jeff

PS: make sure you have the new rubber trim seal in place!

Good grief, can't anything be simple?

Actually, once you get in there, the job is fairly simple. Tod is right on with the steps removing the interior pieces - typed out it sounds harder than it is.

If you clean everything, and there are no chips or scratches, glue the glass back in place.

Complications come if you have to do rust repair. This is an excellent time to replace the seal, too.

-Rusty

I broke five wires trying to cut the seal on mine. And it had been rattling for about two years...

I used a utility knife from the engine bay side, and simply cut through the butyl tape. (Or rather, the parts that were still intact.)

--DD