I have acquired a replacement engine for the 2.7 that went Ka-Blammo last month. It will arrive in Seattle in about a week.

The engine has not been run in a number of years.

What should be done to an engine that has been in storage to get it up and running safely?


Here is my plan:

Totally draining and cleaning the oil system to ensure no debris remains from the detonation of the old piston (and who knows what else). Where can I get the oil cooler cleaned? Hydro sonic?

Remove the CIS and install the Weber 40IDA-3C carbs and Bursch headers from the old engine.

Adjust the valves and check the head studs.

Prime the oil system by using the starter to rotate the engine (with spark plugs removed).

Set the static timing.

Questions:

Should I squirt or spray lubricant in the cylinders before turning over the engine? What type of lubricant?

Should the head bolts be retorqued? Untorqued? Overtorqued?

Should the crankcase be flushed out prior to assembly?

Should the oil be changed soon after the engine is restarted? 1 hour? 10 hours?

What weight oil should be used initially? I usually use Kendall 20W50 but at about $3 a quart I hate tossing out 15 quarts after only a few minutes of running. I can get Chevron 20W50 at the FLAPS for $1 per quart.

Thanks

Eddie

QUOTE (Eddie914 @ Sep 15 2005, 04:30 PM)

What should be done to an engine that has been in storage to get it up and running safely?

i'd take it apart. at least take the heads off ...

Andy

Supposedly the engine comes with a complete engine gasket set ... including rings!

Disassemble top end?

Check valve guide clearances?

Deglaze?

Re_Ring?

Re-assemble with new valve guide seals?

Run It Hard?

Eddie

I'd say generally that any 2.7 you don't know the history on is an automatic rebuild candidate. If you're going to pull the heads off, it's a pretty short step to tearing the whole thing down and building it up again properly.

never mind

sixnotfour,

"nevermind" ??

Does that mean I should just put a stick of dynomite in the crankcase and light the fuse.

Since I'll blow it up sooner or later ... the dynomite will save me time.

Eddie

Sorry Eddie , No comment was meant shoulda just deleted post.

You wont really have a good feel for you're new motor untill you get it ,is all I think.

I agree with Jeff.
The first step would be to pop the plugs & roll it over by hand a few times...maybe squirt some oil in the holes first. Then put the plugs back in and see it if has any compression.

Get past that and you'have something of a feel.

I gotta dead tranny ya can use to hook it up to if ya got a extra starter...grab something to strap it down for a test mule.

QUOTE (Eddie914 @ Sep 15 2005, 07:30 PM)

...Where can I get the oil cooler cleaned? Hydro sonic? Remove the CIS and install the Weber 40IDA-3C carbs and Bursch headers from the old engine.

all the rest of that stuff is "your call."

you probably already know you'll need appropriate manifolds for CIS heads. i hadda swallow hard when i bought my set from PMO. BTW - the "tall" (~+1/2") "racinfg" manifolds are +$50 - $350 total...

Pacific Oil Cooler' figure $125 and a week turnaround. that's what they quoted me a couple weeks ago.

QUOTE (Eddie914 @ Sep 15 2005, 04:47 PM)

Supposedly the engine comes with a complete engine gasket set ... including rings!

This would make me a little suspicious. If the engine is/was good to go, why would you need rings and a gasket kit?

well.. the book says to put the throttle all the way down to the floor and turn the key....



(no really.... it does...)

ArtechnikA,

I already have the CIS PMO manifolds from the previous 2.7 engine. It also was a CIS engine. The intake manifold studs will need to be swapped to accomdate the thermal insulators.


Perry,

The replacement engine is an unknown quantity. I bought it from Wade in New Gloucester Maine. He got the engine as spare parts when he purchased a 914/4 years ago. The previous owner was in the process of acquiring parts to perform a six conversion. Wade restored the 914 and kept it original with the four cylinder. Supposedly the engine was a good running stock engine with cam tensioner and valve cover updates. More won't be known until the motor arrives and it's condition can be evaluated.

If all appears within spec, it may be run "as is".

If any items are suspect, it will get torn down. Parts from both engines can be used to build up a good reliable engine. Maybe J&E pistons and reground cams will be in the cards if a rebuild is needed.

What are the other piston alternatives?


Thanks

Eddie

QUOTE (Eddie914 @ Sep 16 2005, 01:39 PM)

If any items are suspect, it will get torn down. Parts from both engines can be used to build up a good reliable engine. Maybe J&E pistons and reground cams will be in the cards if a rebuild is needed. What are the other piston alternatives? Thanks Eddie

Did you see the pics of Jim's flood motor?
MM had taken Mahle CIS pistons, fly cut them for valve clearance, and stuck them in KS clys. Either the ferocoat had worn off or there never was any. BOOM !

Most CIS pistons are Alusil. They work only with ferrocoated pistons. Most were KS PCs & all of them are Alusil, but some were Mahle, could be either. If your new engine has Mahle PCs, you have a chance....but ya gotta tear it down to find if they are Nikasil. All this crap is about changing pistons to accomodate cams. Changing PCs is not cheep. Figure 2-2.5 K
including cams....unless Jeff has some stuff on a shelf.

Since JP brought up my Motormeister engine thought I would finish the story. Finally called the shop that installed it in the car before the flood. They never ran the engine, in or out of the car. Motormeister told them that they "ran it in" before shipping it. Here is the result of their work.

Ok Jim, I'll bite.. what is the thing on the left, and what is the thing on the right?




M

I love how the pic is placed on the newpaper section with the Stocks and Futures closings on it

Might as well say... look I pissed away money on an engine instead of cowbelly's