I am putting Volvo 240 four piston calipers on my 911 front end. The calipers have two inlet ports for the Volvo's diagonal braking system. Can I just block one port off or do I need to tee the two lines into the teener's single line?
Brian

got any pics....did you upgrade the master as well?

Do a search... i also have pics in my blog

Aaron,

Did you install the volvo calipers and vented roters ?

I did a search and could not find a definitive answer with "volvo calipers". How do I get to your blog pictures?

QUOTE (jim_hoyland @ Sep 16 2005, 01:34 PM)

Aaron, Did you install the volvo calipers and vented roters ?

not yet. there are several things that arent acceptable to me...
pad over hang, and having to sand/grind/clearance the caliper to fit under 15" wheels...

you could go to bigger rotors....but that opens more problems..

im seeing if the ears can be welded up and then redrilled to put the caliper further onto the rotor.


under every post, there are buttons. click the one that says BLOG under my post...and scroll down

Pics of my volvo install with vented rotors and hubs from the club store. They work very good. If you are worried about the overhang just grind it off no big deal

zzz

xxx

grind it off....yes.

but LOOK at how little of the rotor is being utilized....
bigger rotor or mount caliper deeper onto rotor to optimizee the combo

we elongated the mounting holes to bring it closer to the center.

Bernie

QUOTE (bernbomb914 @ Sep 16 2005, 09:08 PM)

we elongated the mounting holes to bring it closer to the center. Bernie

along the lines of what i was thinking.

these are cast right?
im told cast steel cant be welded....??

didn't weld anything plenty of material

Bernie

here"s mine. BMW 2002

QUOTE (bernbomb914 @ Sep 16 2005, 09:41 PM)

didn't weld anything plenty of material Bernie

weld and redrill is what i had in mind...

I got mine mounted. I used Volvo calipers from a non vented rotor 240. I used modified spacers from an early BMW 7 series to make the calipers wide enough to fit over the 911 vented rotors. I elongated my caliper mounting holes as well to move the caliper closer to the center. Then I moved my 911 front calipers to the rear. I had to elongate those holes to move the caliper out a bit to clear the 911 rear vented rotors. For now I am not going to have a parking brake but I have some ideas like some kind of a scrub parking brake on one of the tires or a foot that sticks down and presses on the ground. I don't really want to go with the 911 parking brake. For those of you who elongated your caliper ears did you do something to keep the caliper from walking on the elongated hole? Also, is there another 4 piston caliper out there that bolts on and fits a 1975 911 rotor without as much modification?
Brian

I drove my car 47 miles to work this morning, most of it on 914 roads. The new brakes feel very nice. Firmest pedal I've had on this car. It has braided steel brake hoses, too. Here are a couple of photos.

and another

and another

And one more. BTW, I have a slight pull to the right. Might be because I have different style pads on the two fronts! Also, someone asked earlier if I have trouble keeping my 2.3 turbo Ford cool. I can drive the car in bumper to bumper traffic on a 105F day in Sacramento. Not that I enjoy it. Pulling big hills under 12 psi boost gets the temp up to about 205.

DUDE!!! details on the lifted 240 volvo wagon!!!

Here's a drawing I saved that someone made of a Volvo brake like distribution block. Doesn't look very difficult to machine. Hope the file size is ok.


Andys

I have them installed on the rear with SC rotors. I resolved both issues fairly easily. First off I had the original mounting holes plugged and re-drilled to move the caliper in closer to the hub. The holes had steel bar pressed in and then machined off flush. The holes were drilled 6mm closer to the hub. Then I pulled the pistons out and drilled the caliper body to connect the piston bores together in each half. Just drill at 45 deg from the base of the bore where the bores are closest together. Do this in each bore and the holes will intersect. Put a bleeder nipple in the redundant hole. No need then for any external plumbing.

QUOTE (Howard R @ Sep 19 2005, 01:03 PM)

I have them installed on the rear with SC rotors. I resolved both issues fairly easily. First off I had the original mounting holes plugged and re-drilled to move the caliper in closer to the hub. The holes had steel bar pressed in and then machined off flush. The holes were drilled 6mm closer to the hub. Then I pulled the pistons out and drilled the caliper body to connect the piston bores together in each half. Just drill at 45 deg from the base of the bore where the bores are closest together. Do this in each bore and the holes will intersect. Put a bleeder nipple in the redundant hole. No need then for any external plumbing.

Howard R

I would LOVE to see pics of the mounting ears and the machining you did...

The Volvo is a 1975 245. It has the stock rear Dana 30. I lowered (relative to the car) the entire rear suspension 11". With the tall 265/75/16 tires it is about 14" higher than a stock 245. It has a Cherokee Dana 30 in the front. 4.10 gears. Chevy S10 700R4 auto trans and transfer case (new process). 200hp 1997 Camaro 3.8 V6. Has been driven about 200 miles since the conversion. Working out the bugs now. I started it in early June and drove it for the first time two weeks ago.
Brian