that retaining bolt was tight. no screen, crush washer, or gasket that i can see at this point. is the low torque spec for the stock cover going to do the job? should i add a gasket? i have a couple for the stock screen and cover. the last thing i need to do at this point is break something reefing down on the retaining bolt. i put some witness marks to place the can in the same orientation.

k

You tighten it tighter than the stock torque spec and you risk breaking the cam journal. You feel lucky, punk? THAT would make your day ......................... The Cap'n, who HAS seen it ...............................

the tightness is what prompted this thread . gasket? dress it down with rtv? . and NO! i do not feel lucky.

k

Use your oil screen gasket, and alumn crush washer for th big bolt. I'd probably do some RTV. Mine leaks like a mofo. I will have to drain the oil and either trim down the pickup and/or dress the mounting flange and tuna can where they meet.

K,

I worry like shit everytime I put a wrench on that thing. But a drip is better than a new case.

tiny bit of RTV around the bolt head and 0 leaks from the tunacan so far...

The pushrod tubes are a different story...

No RTV. Please buy good sealer. Put sealer around the can and gasket. Put a little on the bolt and torque to factory spec. You won't have any leaks.

RIMCO charges 70 bucks to weld the case

i'll put it on after the engine is in the car, when i can get underneath it. i wish i could undo the mod. 10-4 on the rtv . it was sort of a joke for the cap'n. what is the name of that good sealer?

k

Three-Bond, Honda-Bond, Yama-Bond. Loctite makes some good stuff I just don't know the name and number. It is the same anerobic stuff the factory uses.

three Bond 1104
white tube with yellow graphics and red letters

QUOTE (URY914 @ Sep 17 2005, 06:18 PM)

K, I worry like shit everytime I put a wrench on that thing. But a drip is better than a new case.

Wuuuuuuusssssssie!

I tighten it by hand, and then snug it on holding the end of the nut end of the wrench.. NO! THE END ON THE NUT, NOT THE END THAT..

NeVerMind!


M

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Sep 17 2005, 01:07 PM)

You tighten it tighter than the stock torque spec and you risk breaking the cam journal. You feel lucky, punk? THAT would make your day ......................... The Cap'n, who HAS seen it ...............................

I've done two "case" replacements this year alone for customers with gorilla hands...expensive boo-boo.

i think what i will do is drill and tap the can to accept a stock mag drain plug. that way, once i seal it i don't have to take it off to drain all the oil.

k

QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Sep 18 2005, 06:56 AM)

i think what i will do is drill and tap the can to accept a stock mag drain plug. that way, once i seal it i don't have to take it off to drain all the oil. k

Smart move Kevin.

QUOTE

i think what i will do is drill and tap the can to accept a stock mag drain plug. that way, once i seal it i don't have to take it off to drain all the oil.

I didn't want to put that much torque on the tunacan. Or put that much more stress on the retaining bolt/ cam boss.

What I did was to use lapping compound on my tunacan and lapped the tunacan into the case recess. I use aneroboic sealant and I use a washer with an integral "o-ring" to seal it up. Mine doesn't leak oil.

If I could just fix my exhaust leak that easily.......