Got brand new push rod seals and one new tube (previous got crushed trying to pull the SOB out!). I'm installing them dry but right now I'd just like to get ONE installed Suggestions on pushing those buggers in? Just gotta push really hard or use pliers or ???

Oil them well with motor oil. Press 'em in while turning with your fingers or a pair of pliers. Watch the outer seals carefully, they're apt to snag and tear while being pressed in. Have fun! The Cap'n

I've got a 7/8" socket on a 6" extension as that diameter "fits" the outside lip of the tube. I am then tapping the end of the extension with a rubber mallet. Got one tube in all the way and it looks okay. Gonna try the rest this way...

Just saw yer note, Capt'n. I'll lube 'em up, that should help. Just some of the manuals I've read said to install them dry. One suggested Permatex 3H (whatever that is).

I used a little permatex 3H on mine and no leaks after 600 miles.

QUOTE (Air_Cooled_Nut @ Sep 17 2005, 12:38 PM)

Just saw yer note, Capt'n. I'll lube 'em up, that should help. Just some of the manuals I've read said to install them dry. One suggested Permatex 3H (whatever that is).

NO SEALANT, EVER!!!!!!! Permatex 3H, "aviation form-a-gasket" would be one of the worst, BTW. The Cap'n

Okay, no sealant used, just a light smear of motor oil on the O-rings to help slip 'em in.

Thanks!

Oil works.....don't use RTV....you will die.....

All installed, valves adjusted, points adjusted, remaining cooling tin placed. Ready for installation!

My pulley fan had the "0" TDC mark and the red mark (27º)...but no 180º mark Huh? So I made my own mark 180º from the TDC mark and quadruple-checked it with the #2 valve train (made sure there was no movement). The rotor tip pointed exactly where it was supposed to for #2 & #4 spark routing in the dizzy.

Glad I checked the valves as #1 & #2 were VERY tight. #3 was super loose. #4 was tight on the exhaust but loose on the intake. Maybe this round I'll be able to time the ignition system better once it's in the body