Has anyone made a pattern or template of where to make slices in the rear fenders for soft flares? From what I have found each one looks custom and one off. I have seen a few that are nice and flowing and a few that are still a little too abrupt for my taste. I will make a template when it comes time to do mine so it will be available for others to use and take some of the guess work out. The shape I am interested in is something close to this.......

that looks great, how many hours go into each quarter

QUOTE (pete-stevers @ Sep 18 2005, 01:33 PM)

that looks great, how many hours go into each quarter

I guess that would depend on the tools and skill level you have. John Kelly could probably knock out a pair in an afternoon......me on the other hand

It is more simple and effective to stretch flares than to cut and weld. I don't know how that beautiful black flare was done, but that is how I would do it. See this album:

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/comm...d=9980138836765

and this picture...no welding

Kevin, I wish I could knock two out in an afternoon..two weeks is more like it unfortunately.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

Hey John,

While your here, =-)))) do you know if annealing the fenders is possible for shaping purposes.

i want to do the exact same thing to my quarters. i've softened aluminum for shaping but never steel....

yes that is a bitchin' example of great looking flares... indeed.

Hello Curt!
Here is a pic of a set of cool flares on Richard"s bad V8 914.
Nice!
Geo

John, thanks for the input! I have definitely spent some time on your site going over the steps of bangin out flares. My front flares will probably be a nice ball peen job since they do not have to stretch quite as far as the rear ones will. I must say you do know how to work magic with a hammer and leather bag!

George,
You are going to have to come back over an pick through the piles of parts I have now. LOTS to go through since I have chosen to go modern retro instead of stock.
I have pics of Richards car at work and I think there is a photo of how he sliced up his rear fender to make that flare. Is that an Oklahoma car? Almost looks like a saftey inspection sticker in the window.......

Hi Roger,

You can anneal steel but it takes more controlled environment than you can create for the metal. It is not necessary to anneal steel to shape it. The reason aluminum is annealed is to keep it soft. It work hardens. To keep steel workable, you must hammer and dolly it smooth between stretching sessions. I have heard some say that you can anneal steel with a shrinking disc. I don't know if this is technically correct, but a shrinking disc does help smooth and relax a panel. An english wheel is great for smoothing a panel back to a more workable state as well.

mrdezyne,

My rule of thumb on 914 flares is stretch anything up to about 2" wider than stock, fabricate anything larger. In case you haven't seen it, here is an album that I started for larger flares showing Felix's (neo914) flares being built:

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/comm...d=9980196113489

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

I might have to find me a scrap fender and whack on it for a while to see if I get the hang of it. It looks like a palm nailer is the way to go and would make this 10 times as fast.

This was the photo I was looking for. Not sure who's car it is, maybe Richards, but this is what I had in mind. Somehow I feels safer making matching sides going this route.

Hey Man

I relate 100%
I have a hard time looking at stretched fenders that are made to look like a "bulge". It my personal taste

The pic of the black car is my ideal flare and I don't think the strechers can get this look within a reasonal amount of time$, and even at the hands of someone with a faire bit of experience, like me, I probably would not be happy with my results. I am going the mig route.

Thanx for the pics
Let us know how it turns out.
Later

I have seen VW-rabbit flares welded on. It gave the car an agressive look, but the flares started abruptly, so I thought it looked like rabbit poo.

Hi mrdezyne,

The cut and splice method takes a lot of welding which makes a lot of shrinkage and a lot of grinding and filler required. Other than that it's fine (smile) If you do go with a palm nailer, be sure to use caution when hooking up air to the tool. Make sure there is nothing in the drive head. In other words take out the bolt or it may fly out and injure you. I demonstrate this in my video. One update: use a grade 8 bolt instead of a stainless carriage bolt. And make dies as seen in my flare album. This works better than the carriage bolt, and the bolt will not mushroom as fast.

MecGen,

There is no difference between a stretched fender shape and a cut and splice fender shape. You put the shape where you want it when stretching. The black flare above could be made by stretching a lot easier and better than by the other method. Do what you want though...just sharing my experience building flares of many different types and methods.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

John,
Certainly appreciate the input and time you take to encourage others. I'll keep you posted as I tackle these fenders.

Has anyone used the Tangerine fenders? Am I understanding the website correctly that these are weld on soft flares? I didn't find but a couple pics and a few words of information on the site....

QUOTE (mrdezyne @ Sep 20 2005, 07:30 PM)

Has anyone used the Tangerine fenders? Am I understanding the website correctly that these are weld on soft flares? I didn't find but a couple pics and a few words of information on the site....

I don't have them, but you should email Chris Foley for some more pictures. I'm sure he has more. I think that they are welded on.