Got my engine installed...and bent an injector Since working on this damn engine in its damn, tight fitting engine bay is a given, can the injector be replaced while the engine is still in the car?

Damn I hate the super-tight engine fitment

Here's the left side with the #4 injector bent:

Another view with torn hose:

Right side, how it should look:

Pull the injector out and remount it. It looks like the injector is not bent, just pulled out from its big outer rubber seal. The injectors are easily replaced without removing the engine.

Sorry Bowlsby, Navy training coming out Slightly adjusted edit to original posts made But it does really piss me off how friggin tight that four-cylinder lump has to be installed.

School of Hard Knocks taught me on 914 engine remove and reinstall to leave both injector rails off the head, flop them on top of the motor, else they can catch like you (and I) experienced.

It should be on the engine pull check list, remove injector rail before removing engine,and do not re-install until engine reinstalled.


Hope the plastic injector body ain't cracked and you have a fuel leak (that was my Hard Knock). Give them a keen eye when you first prime the fuel system.

cheers

QUOTE

can the injector be replaced while the engine is still in the car?

I just replaced my injector seals and fuel lines with engine in car. It wasn't a problem getting the injectors in and out.

QUOTE (dmenche914 @ Sep 18 2005, 03:09 PM)

School of Hard Knocks taught me on 914 engine remove and reinstall to leave both injector rails off the head, flop them on top of the motor, else they can catch like you (and I) experienced. It should be on the engine pull check list, remove injector rail before removing engine,and do not re-install until engine reinstalled. Hope the plastic injector body ain't cracked and you have a fuel leak (that was my Hard Knock). Give them a keen eye when you first prime the fuel system. cheers

Dude, excellent idea!

I was able to loosen the nut and move the injector back into position. Then locked it down and it held, yeay! I then replaced the torn fuel line.

I was thinking, what about making those lines longer so they could more easily be pushed onto the intake runners and thus clear the body tin :scratch head icon here:

QUOTE (Air_Cooled_Nut @ Sep 18 2005, 03:22 PM)

four-cylinder lump

It is a bitch...

when you're going to be working in the engine bay for a long time, remove the engine lid for a little more ease of access. it's only 2 10mm bolts

sounds like the rails got hung up on the suspension ears. next time, slide a piece of tin or an old license plate in between the engine tin and the engine shelve, at the rails. problem solved. this works for reinstalling the engine too. if you slot the 2 holes on the engine lid bracket arms, you can remove the engine lid without fully removing the bolts. it will just slide rearward. piece-o-cake putting it back in place by yourself too.

k

QUOTE (type47 @ Sep 19 2005, 04:08 AM)

when you're going to be working in the engine bay for a long time, remove the engine lid for a little more ease of access. it's only 2 10mm bolts

Yup, did that!

I guess you will get lots of experience fitting the injectors. Especially now that you have to replace the incorrect hose clamps. You are just asking for an engine fire.

QUOTE (davep @ Sep 19 2005, 08:08 AM)

I guess you will get lots of experience fitting the injectors. Especially now that you have to replace the incorrect hose clamps. You are just asking for an engine fire.

Though inexperienced at dropping the 914 motor I am experienced with the air-cooled VW motor. Never EVER a problem using the worm-style hose clamps to secure fuel lines -- both carb and FI. Your opinion and not one I share.