I have a dwell meter. Digital.

replaced my coil awhile back...been having ping problems ever since. far i know its a 12V coil(flaps special) but who knows.
gets real hot.

anyway, i'm meauring dwell....and i can't get a steady reading...jumping all over the place.

my dad sent me a box, had some candy in it and a surprise dizzy (2.0 FI) Yesss!

put it in, the timing is more accurate and more precise, BUT the ping is still there...

took out a idle jet (or maybe air correction jet labeled like 145) and ran carb cleaner through it

put it back in, nothing.

doesn't ping AS bad as before, but it's still there, and i'm still angry...

before a rebuild of the carb (which i might have to do) is there anything else I could check?

can't check dwell=timing off=carb clogged=pinging=anger=more CS stress relieving time .....


b

make sure your valves are adjusted too

okay here's the pandora's box of the WHOLE thing:

would mis-adjusted valves cause my ping condition?

they are loose, they are loud....but could this be my racheting rattling sound that makes my oil temps go through the roof?

i managed to keep it where its supposed to be, i just have to retard the timing a tad for tomorrow's trip home.....

b

You need to have your valves set to properly set your timing/dwell, as per the cap'ns advice. I doubt pinging would be from out of spec valves, but who knows.

Is your dwell set correctly? You never said if you got a decent reading.

I assume the long block is in good working order now, good compression, cam working the valves properly, etc. cooling tin and thermostat working properly.


A couple of things to check.

First, adjust the valves. then check them again, Then take a minute and be sure there set correctly.

Re-check and clean all ground connections. Don't hurry with this. Look over your cables to see if it's time to replace them. They can corrode inside the cable covering. They don't last forever. Poor grounds will cause your coil to overheat, your points will fail, etc.

Then the coil you purchased. Be sure it's grounded. Check the voltage coming out of the coil going to your points. You may have too much voltage going to the points causing the fluctuating reading. Some coils have a built in regulator I think, some don't.

Do you have a Ballest Resistor? if so, check the voltage coming from the output side of the resistor to the points. I think you want to be around 6 volts. Not over 9 volts. Too much voltage will cause the points to arch and fry. this will cause hard starting, inconsistant spark, miss firing, and possibly the pinging your experiencing.

Once you have a consistant low voltage signal to your points. pull them out, check them or replace them along with your condensor. Check the screw that holds the condensor. make sure it's snug without stripping it. Set the baseline gap with a feeler gauge. Re-install the distributor.

Set the static timing (engine off rotate and set the base timing)

THEN: check the carbs. Set them to a base line setting. Someone here should have a suggestion for you with regard to mixture screws.

If everything checks out, grounds, voltage and base line setting, base settings for the carbs, vacum lines in good working order start that bad boy up.

Now check your dwell, timing, etc.

90% of carb problems are ignition related.

One more thought. Put a vacum gauge on it and check the signal. this will be a great diagnostic tool for you. You may discover you have a vacum leak.

thanks rick.....that's a lot of helpful information that i'm going to print out and do this weekend


one thing though: where's the VR for the points....you mean the condensor?



b

VR is this thing over on the relay board

i know about that one (believe me i've been stranded many times over that silver monster) but it regulates 12V not 6V or even 9V.....

rick, you're confusing me.....

when i'm confused, angels lose thier wings.


b

Sorry.. My bad. It was early. I ment the Ballest Resistor. I went back and change my post.

Britt,
You think you are frustrated with keeping your Teener running;

Mine has not been on the road since you were over to my house ! I have a box of new parts to try and no time to get to it......Oh the distractions and obligations in life.

Good Luck on your pinging,

Have you tried higher octane gas ? or one of the cans of octane bosters yet ?

so you have a box too.

Regardless of running condition, this thing has gotta ping sputter and pink pink pink all the way to Louisville today.

I bet you're pretty upset, your car is a good looking car....next color is black for sure.....

i did try 89, but I could have thing pretty far on the retard side of timing and it still be off...the distributor sure helped though....it feels 100s times better and smoother.

i should dump a few cans of octane boost in there...but i have a gut feeling that my carb is going to need to go under the knife...

did you ever buy this book?

k

there is a section devoted to the 32/36 DGAV. the text explains how this model of carb functions.

exploded parts diagrams and numbered items make things easy to figure out.

stop chasing your tail and screwing with the carb, until you know exactly what does what. ping, ping, ping? i'm afraid you're going to be riding a skate board in the near future.

k

QUOTE

can't check dwell=timing off=carb clogged=pinging...

you don't need a fancy meter to set dwell.
use a plain ol' FLAPS feeler gauge to set your point gap to 0.016".
your dwell is now set.

you don't need a fancy meter to set timing.
static-time to 5* BTDC.

evaluate (test drive)

adjust total advance per book with the hoses disconnected - you have nothing to connect them to anyway.

sometimes it's like . britt asks for advice. seems to not like the answers. fails to heed learned opinions/experiences. pages and pages and pages of replies with results that have been less than satisfactory. well, til he springs $10 for a damn book i'm finished. he's going to lunch his engine. if your car isn't running right, you borrow a car, or bum a ride, or take the bus!

k

Single carb? 914's do not like lean conditions. bad ju ju..

i'm waiting for the update on clearing the idle jet on a sbc by reving it up to 3.5k and putting your hand on the top of the carb to suck the crap through. i want pictures too!

k

that actually helped

here's some info:

from ground to coil : 9.05V
dwell: 44.2degrees
battery: 13.9V-14.2V
coil resistance: 1.8ohm


like i said in previous posts, I went online and got information on my carb plus base=line setups...I've learned here...

thing is when its cold I can do anything ...as soon as it warms up, things start getting wierd. so i am thinking that the jets are clogged some and i will have to do a rebuild.

okay, 10 clams for the weber book,

i'll grab one from flaps....

i'll do some more homework....

i'll catch you all on sunday..

later

Oh come on- everybody wants the simple solution... Me too! You really should recheck the valve clearances I think. I had mine intentionally loose for fear of burning exhaust valves. It turned out my INTAKE valves were so loose that it was popping back pretty loudly through the carbs. The best valve adjust guide I've used is at the end of the PP valve adjust article where there is an addendum talking about which valves should be loose when others are adjusted.

see...I tried to do my own valve adjustment...problem was that it was on the ground and turning the alternator bolt with a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench got old...and i couldnt see the other side of the engine.....

I guess its easier with everything in the engine bay.....

the other thing (valve related) is the fact that the starter has a hard time cycling through the cylinders upon startup...seems to want to hang-up on a cylinder or two....so you could be right SGB....becuase although it's a loud rattle sound, it could be the carb popping real fast (which would happen driving on the highway)...

Valve clearances CAN cause a ping.. if it's too tight anyways. If the valve is not seating, it will get VERY hot and preignite the gas. (a big function of the valve cooling is its contact time with the head) I think the exhaust valve is more likely to cause it than the intake. It can also be caused by an overground valve (edges shouldn't be sharp). You MAY be able to inspect the the valves a little through the spark plug hole.

That said, I don't think that's the cause of your pinging... Get a CHT and I suspect you will find the source of your pinging.

i already know.....

saturday is work day.....