I've been pretty busy since I picked up my replacement motor. It came out of a track car which is receiving a turbo'd Saab engine (he owns a Saab garage).

The engine has newly refurbished heads (new intake seals/guides), one season on the Euro P/C's, and two seasons on the bottom end rebuild. Rods are balanced and polished. Has a webcam for carbs. It was run with a front oil cooler and has a heavy duty oil pump. On a scale of one to ten (best), he rated it a nine. I will be using my 44IDF's and Mallory Unilite with Hyfire box.

Hope it starts.

Instead of rushing around with the installation to drive it to MUSR7, I decided to cancel and instead spend the time doing some various upgrades and repairs while the engine is out.

I had to fit a new impeller fan since he had machined the back of the original one for a crank fire ignition.

I removed all the tin (nice), off the engine, and inspected the cylinder fins, cooling flaps, and checked the torque on the heads and rocker assembly bolts. Also set the end play and new seal for my flywheel.

I also installed a CHT gage and test fitted a sandwich adaptor for the remote cooler (which I will install later).

I fabricated a plate for the oil lines to pass thru so they will lay on the lower engine tin and then pass thru the rear tin. Also made some oil cooler mounts to hang under the rear trunk floor. I'm going to run the stock cooler first so I will know what the engine temps are, and then fit the lines to the remote cooler so I will know how effective the cooler is.

I installed a cut off switch in the engine bay so I could route all the electrical lines to it (these are lines that the PO had routed all the way back to the starter terminal (when he relocated the battery to the front trunk). There were so many connectors on it you could just barely get the terminal nut threaded on). Also cleaned up harnesses and moved the HyFire box into the trunk.

I fabricated a "plate" above the engine case that has the coil and oil pressure sender mounted to it.

Also installed new front & side shroud rubber seals (came with the engine). This turned out to be pretty easy to do. With working cooling flaps, the new shroud seals and complete engine tin, I'm hoping the engine temps will be better than my old motor.

I have taken my time to try and do it right. Sometimes it's even enjoyable when you don't try to rush it.

I just hope this engine is worth a shit.

Here are a few pics.

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last

that engine is a work of art...good luck with it!
Joe

Put some grommets in those through holes so the vibration doesn't cut through the oil lines.

thermostat is broken......

FYI.

looks beautiful otherwise.


b

Thanks Quarl. I've got some catepillar grommets I'll use when I fit the oil lines.

Thanks for the observation Britt.

Busted Thermostat.

Anybody have one available?

1. the rubber line to the oil pressure sender wont last - hopefully you'll catch it before it blows - btdt 2 or 3 times, finally gave up on it.

2. if that is just a coil sitting on the engine, maybe its ok. If its electronic, it wont last - btdt twice.

Sorry for your bad luck.

The line for the sender is a grease gun hose, which is known to work quite well for this application. I've not heard of one failing.

I'll let you know how the coil does. The CDI box is in the trunk.

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