A little late but I figured I might as well post this...
Running up to the event the needle didnt hit past 180.
Driving to Felix's house it was climbing to 195.
Going home back over the hills (on the way up) it climbed to 210. It was also getting pretty hot, Into the 90's I'd say. I was worried that it woudnt come down, So I told dad (he was driving at the time) to put in the clutch and let the car coast down for a little. All the way down, about 1/2 a mile, we coasted, idle was 1k. at 75mph. Obviously it will cool the engine, but to how much? bottom of the hill we were at 170. 40 degrees in 1/2 mile... And no it didnt just jump back up. but it did slowly climb up to 185 and stay there for a little through bumper to bumper traffic.
Our hypothisis is that we have to much flow to the radiator and the radiator doesnt have enough time to cool the water. Lowering the idle a little I think would also make a big difference in cooling.
(reason I think Rennegade emphasizes a trani rebuild... Hmmm)
So a different water pump might be neccesary.
Also I averaged 17mpg total, Including about 10 full throttle test runs in 4th. (we were setting the mixture and such.)
Andrew
Just a little update.
Full Version: MPG and Temp updates.
Hi Andrew,
Maybe your hypothesis is right but I'd suspect something else going on besides too much flow. Yeah, I'm sure it's possible to have too much flow as well as too little flow, and the optimum is obviously somewhere in between. But there are so many restrictions in the system (engine, thermostat, hoses, radiator) that I think these naturally will limit the maximum coolant that can be pushed through the system.
It would be easier to add some restriction in the system instead of changing the water pump. Are you running with a thermostat? Some folks install a restricting washer at the inlet to the radiator also.
I'd recheck your radiator to ensure it's not clogged up, your fan shroud and fans are good, and no air in system. Make sure the belt is not slipping on the water pump and no pinched hoses. Check them when they are still hot. Is the engine in good condition and water jackets clean? Timing OK? You've probably checked them all already but another look wouldn't hurt. Hopefully not something wrong with the engine causing it to overheat.
Maybe your hypothesis is right but I'd suspect something else going on besides too much flow. Yeah, I'm sure it's possible to have too much flow as well as too little flow, and the optimum is obviously somewhere in between. But there are so many restrictions in the system (engine, thermostat, hoses, radiator) that I think these naturally will limit the maximum coolant that can be pushed through the system.
It would be easier to add some restriction in the system instead of changing the water pump. Are you running with a thermostat? Some folks install a restricting washer at the inlet to the radiator also.
I'd recheck your radiator to ensure it's not clogged up, your fan shroud and fans are good, and no air in system. Make sure the belt is not slipping on the water pump and no pinched hoses. Check them when they are still hot. Is the engine in good condition and water jackets clean? Timing OK? You've probably checked them all already but another look wouldn't hurt. Hopefully not something wrong with the engine causing it to overheat.
Andy, you said at Hooters that your power drops off at higher RPM's. It may not be your injectors holding you back, but your timing.
A timing retarded engine wil let "still burning" fuel past the exhaust valve heating the engine excessively. Did it myself.
A timing retarded engine wil let "still burning" fuel past the exhaust valve heating the engine excessively. Did it myself.
| QUOTE |
| So a different water pump might be neccesary. |
if belt driven, how about a larger diameter pulley to slow it down?
| QUOTE (Andyrew @ Sep 29 2005, 12:07 AM) |
| A little late but I figured I might as well post this... Running up to the event the needle didnt hit past 180. Driving to Felix's house it was climbing to 195. Going home back over the hills (on the way up) it climbed to 210. It was also getting pretty hot, Into the 90's I'd say. I was worried that it woudnt come down, So I told dad (he was driving at the time) to put in the clutch and let the car coast down for a little. All the way down, about 1/2 a mile, we coasted, idle was 1k. at 75mph. Obviously it will cool the engine, but to how much? bottom of the hill we were at 170. 40 degrees in 1/2 mile... And no it didnt just jump back up. but it did slowly climb up to 185 and stay there for a little through bumper to bumper traffic. Our hypothisis is that we have to much flow to the radiator and the radiator doesnt have enough time to cool the water. Lowering the idle a little I think would also make a big difference in cooling. (reason I think Rennegade emphasizes a trani rebuild... Hmmm) So a different water pump might be neccesary. Also I averaged 17mpg total, Including about 10 full throttle test runs in 4th. (we were setting the mixture and such.) Andrew Just a little update. |
[QUOTE]Our hypothisis is that we have to much flow to the radiator and the radiator doesnt have enough time to cool the water. Lowering the idle a little I think would also make a big difference in cooling.
If you think you have to much flow, changing the pump, might be a problem, there isn't much of a variety to choose from, it would be easier to change the pump pully, a larger pulley woukd slow the pump down, cheaper and easier, would be as Guy suggested, if your running a thermostat, pull it and use washers, start with a 2" hole then 1 1/2, 1', untill you find a happy point.
HP SBC, will run warm, I had a 400 SBC it ran at 220 all the time, my 327 coastal areas 180, 190, I'd go to riverside 110 out, it run 215 220, my wife had a Pontiac Bonneville SSei with a supercharger, it ran a normal operating temp of 210.
V8 914's trying to get the exhaust to a non-ticket sound level, end up restricting the exhaust, causing more back pressure, which will make them run hotter.
185 in bumper to bumper traffic, sounds good to me, 210 under load up hills, and then cools down, I don''t see a problem, but your gas milage sucks
Does somebody here want to show me some technical paper that references that too much water running through a radiator will NOT cool the water.
This I have see.
By the way. The reason I used to put restrictors in the line for SBC race cars that ran on an oval. had nothing to do with restricting the flow to the radiator. Thats a myth.
It was because we didn't run ANY thermostat. Couldn't afford to have a stuck thermostat in a race situation.
The 5/8 hole in the washer that we put in place of the thermostat was for a differant reason entirely. has nothing to do with slowing the flow. Even though that was a byproduct of the washer.
I.E.: By placing a restrictor in the coolant passage was to force coolant into the nooks and crannys of the coolant passages of the heads. This forces coolant into steam pockets that always occur in the heads. Cause steam does not transfer heat for crap.
Lets say you and I are at the Kern river. we are watching water flow over a big boulder.
On the downhill side of the boulder you can see the water level is actually LOWER than the front. This is an eddy. Instant steam pocket..!!!
The same thing happens in a sand casting in the coolant packages in the head. Steam is created in the eddy behind each little rough, sand cast part of the coolant passage. The washer forces the coolant up against the eddy and the steam pocket gets pushed out into the coolant stream. This allows a bit more timing cause the heads were a bit cooler and less prone to detonation.
By the way. if you guys really want to learn sumpin about cooling. There was an old guy named Smoky Yunick that taught us all a little something about the SBC.
And the guy that really knows his stuff about cooling is a guy named Evans.
Try this web site and read for an hour or so... I think you will find it revealing.
Evans Cooling
Spend the time to read all through this site. if ya look hard enough. there is a lot of good stuff.
Then again... I don't know squat.
Twystd1
This I have see.
By the way. The reason I used to put restrictors in the line for SBC race cars that ran on an oval. had nothing to do with restricting the flow to the radiator. Thats a myth.
It was because we didn't run ANY thermostat. Couldn't afford to have a stuck thermostat in a race situation.
The 5/8 hole in the washer that we put in place of the thermostat was for a differant reason entirely. has nothing to do with slowing the flow. Even though that was a byproduct of the washer.
I.E.: By placing a restrictor in the coolant passage was to force coolant into the nooks and crannys of the coolant passages of the heads. This forces coolant into steam pockets that always occur in the heads. Cause steam does not transfer heat for crap.
Lets say you and I are at the Kern river. we are watching water flow over a big boulder.
On the downhill side of the boulder you can see the water level is actually LOWER than the front. This is an eddy. Instant steam pocket..!!!
The same thing happens in a sand casting in the coolant packages in the head. Steam is created in the eddy behind each little rough, sand cast part of the coolant passage. The washer forces the coolant up against the eddy and the steam pocket gets pushed out into the coolant stream. This allows a bit more timing cause the heads were a bit cooler and less prone to detonation.
By the way. if you guys really want to learn sumpin about cooling. There was an old guy named Smoky Yunick that taught us all a little something about the SBC.
And the guy that really knows his stuff about cooling is a guy named Evans.
Try this web site and read for an hour or so... I think you will find it revealing.
Evans Cooling
Spend the time to read all through this site. if ya look hard enough. there is a lot of good stuff.
Then again... I don't know squat.
Twystd1
I've read very creditable information from various authorities on cooling that more volume is indeed better for cooling. The whole " doesn't stay in the radiator long enough" theory just doesn't hold water.
The temp. differential before and after the radiator is typically only 15 degrees or so. It is the cumulative effect of repeated cycles through the radiator that results in effective cooling.
The temp. differential before and after the radiator is typically only 15 degrees or so. It is the cumulative effect of repeated cycles through the radiator that results in effective cooling.
Seems to me that any change in the flow rate would affect the whole system.. if you slow down the coolant, it will have more time in the radiator to cool down, but more time in the engine to warm up. If you speed it up, it will have less time in the radiator, but also less time in the engine.
I would think that faster would be better, as the faster the coolant is moving, the less differrence between the engine inlet and outlet temps. This would mean the temp gradient inside the engine is less, which is probably a good thing.
I would think that faster would be better, as the faster the coolant is moving, the less differrence between the engine inlet and outlet temps. This would mean the temp gradient inside the engine is less, which is probably a good thing.
Andrew,
I know with my V-8 car i had to burp it ALOT until all the air was out of the system. before that i had a temp spike problem.
It doesn't sound like you are that far off though.
I know with my V-8 car i had to burp it ALOT until all the air was out of the system. before that i had a temp spike problem.
It doesn't sound like you are that far off though.
Ok, couple points,
Radiator is not plugged, its had all of 1k miles on it with a new engine, and its a new radiator. All jackets are good (new engine)
I doubt the belt is slipping. But I will check.
Mike that is a good point, I will look into a larger pully.
Rogger, Power drop off in higher rpm was a little to do with timing, but primarily my a/f ratio. I know because I was looking at 15-16 on throttle. Durring cruse, its perfect. 14.6-14.8.
My engine is no where a "high performance" engine, it has a cam, headers, and some new stuff...
Also exhaust is NOT restrictive... lol... header and a magnaflow...
Ok then, is it possibly my air outlet? I suspect that I need to duct it, and I will.
Also, If there is little likelyhood that more flow is worse, then I could need more.. I have it setup like renegades, not much different.
I know 210 isnt bad.. but still.
I'll be installing an oil cooler next month.. so I suspect a 10 degree drop in high rpm temps. Just my guestamate/goal...
Andrew
Radiator is not plugged, its had all of 1k miles on it with a new engine, and its a new radiator. All jackets are good (new engine)
I doubt the belt is slipping. But I will check.
Mike that is a good point, I will look into a larger pully.
Rogger, Power drop off in higher rpm was a little to do with timing, but primarily my a/f ratio. I know because I was looking at 15-16 on throttle. Durring cruse, its perfect. 14.6-14.8.
My engine is no where a "high performance" engine, it has a cam, headers, and some new stuff...
Also exhaust is NOT restrictive... lol... header and a magnaflow...
Ok then, is it possibly my air outlet? I suspect that I need to duct it, and I will.
Also, If there is little likelyhood that more flow is worse, then I could need more.. I have it setup like renegades, not much different.
I know 210 isnt bad.. but still.
I'll be installing an oil cooler next month.. so I suspect a 10 degree drop in high rpm temps. Just my guestamate/goal...
Andrew
Oil temps and coolant temp ARE NOT necasarily in the same ball park.
I have cooked engines from overheated oil in an engine running under 230 degree water temps.
And I hqave overheated coolant levels with a cold oil temp.
By the way.. On a round "D" round course. Engines often run over 230 F water temp and sometimes over 250 for short races. Engine still stays together. (most of the time)
Then again... You can overcool the oil. That makes for problems too.... Oil doesn't really work to it's max effeciancy when it is cold... Then again it depends on the oil used. Viscosity, synth or dino, heat, and other attributes, affect the proper running temp ranges.
Oil Temp and coolant temp should be mitigated seperatly. Not as a whole
That my .02 worth of data...
Twystd1
I have cooked engines from overheated oil in an engine running under 230 degree water temps.
And I hqave overheated coolant levels with a cold oil temp.
By the way.. On a round "D" round course. Engines often run over 230 F water temp and sometimes over 250 for short races. Engine still stays together. (most of the time)
Then again... You can overcool the oil. That makes for problems too.... Oil doesn't really work to it's max effeciancy when it is cold... Then again it depends on the oil used. Viscosity, synth or dino, heat, and other attributes, affect the proper running temp ranges.
Oil Temp and coolant temp should be mitigated seperatly. Not as a whole
That my .02 worth of data...
Twystd1
Yes, I suspect that my oil temps will drop 30 degrees or more on track days.
A cooler oil jacket and such makes for a cooler engine which will make for a cooler water temp....
I understand they are two different things.
A cooler oil jacket and such makes for a cooler engine which will make for a cooler water temp....
I understand they are two different things.
| QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Sep 29 2005, 08:42 AM) |
| Andy, you said at Hooters that your power drops off at higher RPM's. It may not be your injectors holding you back, but your timing. A timing retarded engine wil let "still burning" fuel past the exhaust valve heating the engine excessively. Did it myself. |
Andyrew,
I would strongly suggest you eliminate the points that rogergrubb has posted, before tearing into and reconfiguring your cooling system. A little lack of timing, or a little lack of jetting, or a combination of both can easily creat overheating problems in a heart beat. With a carb, the tuning could be lacking in more than one of the circuits, even the idle circuit, yet not reveal itself until more throttle is applied. Or, over-compensating jetting for poor timing. If you have EFI, then some dyno work to dial things' in. Oh, do check for vacuum leaks as well. Much of this has been my experience supported by many an occasion where the cooling system was not the culprit (to the chagrin of many). Get it dialed in first; if it still runs too hot, by all means, play with the cooling system. IMHO.
Andys
| QUOTE (Mueller @ Sep 29 2005, 09:51 AM) | ||
if belt driven, how about a larger diameter pulley to slow it down? |
That's a racer trick there Mike
Roger, I agree with you and the others on the timing issue. We need to try the obious things first. The A/F seems ok, but we still have some tuning to do on that. Possibly going uphill we may need to richen it up a bit.
So, a couple real questions for the tuners out there..
What are "Correct" air/fuel readings? I'll throw some out and you guys can chew it up...
Idle, 14.5
Crusing 14.5
Very Slight Acceleration 14
Mid Acceleration 13.5
Full Acceleration 12.5
Deceleration 22.whatever
Question #2.
Does anyone have a trick for setting timing on their V8 conversion? We're having a real problem getting this exact with the timing mark hidden like it is.
I've resorted to timing by ear and I'm not convinced that my ear is working.
Cooling restriction...
Right or wrong, the slowing down of the water does work. A couple guys on the V8 boards have done nothing more than add a restriction to their hose systems and cured long time overheating problems. I can't give any scientific facts as to why it works, but for them, it worked. I'm not saying this is Andrews problem, (he doesn't really have a problem with overheating) but it may be part of it.
So, a couple real questions for the tuners out there..
What are "Correct" air/fuel readings? I'll throw some out and you guys can chew it up...
Idle, 14.5
Crusing 14.5
Very Slight Acceleration 14
Mid Acceleration 13.5
Full Acceleration 12.5
Deceleration 22.whatever
Question #2.
Does anyone have a trick for setting timing on their V8 conversion? We're having a real problem getting this exact with the timing mark hidden like it is.
I've resorted to timing by ear and I'm not convinced that my ear is working.
Cooling restriction...
Right or wrong, the slowing down of the water does work. A couple guys on the V8 boards have done nothing more than add a restriction to their hose systems and cured long time overheating problems. I can't give any scientific facts as to why it works, but for them, it worked. I'm not saying this is Andrews problem, (he doesn't really have a problem with overheating) but it may be part of it.
| QUOTE |
> Gentleman and fellow armchair engineers: > > I've been reading this string with great interest, given that I have, > for 7 years, been driving my '73 5.7 whose only fault (besides going > through 5-901 trannys) has been a chronic overheating problem when > pressed to work in a high temperature environment. > > So after reading all your various takes on the problems of cooling > these beasts, I whip out a pair of 3" Vise-grip needle nose pliers, > locate the only rubber section in my entire cooling system, which > happens to be the OUTLET of my Fluidyne racing radiator I bought from > Rod Simpson in 1997, and close it off to about 15% of its original > diameter. I then drive from my home on the california coast (62 > degrees) over the hill to where it's hot (94 degrees). I let the car > idle for a long time - I can't believe my eyes, the temp never exceeds > 185!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > Seven years of suffering for want of a little restriction - every > advance I made to the system was to increase flow! > > I'm no engineer, but I do have my solution! Best group tech effort > I've seen on this board, by the way. Thanks! |
Ok,
My old school thinking tells me you NEVER need to slow a water pump down
UNLESS.
You have an odd ball pulley size that is no where close to stock. And you are already over spinning (cavitating) the water pump at normal engine RPMs.
OR:
You are consistently running 6000 RPM and higher continously....
Not likely on this conversion.
I would think that slowing the pump down would be fruitless.
I would be more worried about under driving the water pump and not having enough flow from the pump to the engine and the cooling circuit to and from the radiator.
By da way... Are you running a reverse cooling system that cools the heads first? or a old school system....
I think I spent too many years chasing down what works on SBC based cooling systems to not chime in here....
Don't mind me... I always think I know somehting.... Heeee.. Heeeee
Hell.. i just ask Skline to look at your pictures and tell me whaZzzz up.
Twystd1
My old school thinking tells me you NEVER need to slow a water pump down
UNLESS.
You have an odd ball pulley size that is no where close to stock. And you are already over spinning (cavitating) the water pump at normal engine RPMs.
OR:
You are consistently running 6000 RPM and higher continously....
Not likely on this conversion.
I would think that slowing the pump down would be fruitless.
I would be more worried about under driving the water pump and not having enough flow from the pump to the engine and the cooling circuit to and from the radiator.
By da way... Are you running a reverse cooling system that cools the heads first? or a old school system....
I think I spent too many years chasing down what works on SBC based cooling systems to not chime in here....
Don't mind me... I always think I know somehting.... Heeee.. Heeeee
Hell.. i just ask Skline to look at your pictures and tell me whaZzzz up.
Twystd1
dan10101
Hey Dan, Nice meetin you the other day.
I have a fully mechanical Mallory dual point right now on my SBC. Vac advance is disconnected. Temporarily.
To adjust timing my old Auto shop teacher told us to take our car and find a long stretch, punch it and hold it to the floor across the whole RPM band.
If it does not ping, advance it a couple of degrees and start the process again.
When an ever so slight ping is detected, back the timing off a degree or 2 and clamp it down.
I've used this method on all my SBC's with full mechanical advance. Zero problems. Even the ones with weaker springs for quicker advance. (recurved). =-) Damn I miss that Chevelle.....
| QUOTE |
| Sep 29 2005, 06:08 PM] Roger, I agree with you and the others on the timing issue. We need to try the obious things first. The A/F seems ok, but we still have some tuning to do on that. Possibly going uphill we may need to richen it up a bit. . Does anyone have a trick for setting timing on their V8 conversion? We're having a real problem getting this exact with the timing mark hidden like it is. I've resorted to timing by ear and I'm not convinced that my ear is working. |
Hey Dan, Nice meetin you the other day.
I have a fully mechanical Mallory dual point right now on my SBC. Vac advance is disconnected. Temporarily.
To adjust timing my old Auto shop teacher told us to take our car and find a long stretch, punch it and hold it to the floor across the whole RPM band.
If it does not ping, advance it a couple of degrees and start the process again.
When an ever so slight ping is detected, back the timing off a degree or 2 and clamp it down.
I've used this method on all my SBC's with full mechanical advance. Zero problems. Even the ones with weaker springs for quicker advance. (recurved). =-) Damn I miss that Chevelle.....
My engine temps would creep higher at highway speeds, just like yours. I found that if you clutched in and blipped the throttle, the thing would drop back to 180. I tried swapping jets in the carb, timing, etc. thinking it was lean. . .
Then I noticed that I was going from almost empty in the recovery tank when cold to over the full mark when hot. Yep she just need a good belch. The tip off to air is that it will expand alot and cause wild fluctuations in the overflow tank.
check for a pinched hose, put small holes in your t-stat. and burp -
180 - 190 no problem.
If you are worried about lean or late timing, run for a while at night at the speed where it heats up. Pull over quick and see if you have cherry headers, one side of my carb was clogged, and one set of headders where bright orange.
Then I noticed that I was going from almost empty in the recovery tank when cold to over the full mark when hot. Yep she just need a good belch. The tip off to air is that it will expand alot and cause wild fluctuations in the overflow tank.
check for a pinched hose, put small holes in your t-stat. and burp -
180 - 190 no problem.
If you are worried about lean or late timing, run for a while at night at the speed where it heats up. Pull over quick and see if you have cherry headers, one side of my carb was clogged, and one set of headders where bright orange.
| QUOTE |
| I've used this method on all my SBC's with full mechanical advance. Zero problems. Even the ones with weaker springs for quicker advance. (recurved). =-) Damn I miss that Chevelle..... |
That's my method as well. Starting by adjusting it at idle as it keeps raising the idle speed and then retarding it a bit and doing the method you describe.
Mine was a 68 Camero with a tilt fiberglass front end...
Twystd1, I'm not really ready to slow down the pump. But I can attest that it pumps out REAL good. Been there, done that, have the wet t-shirt to prove it.
Where did this conventional wisdom of anything over 180 is over heating come from?
Well I can answer that, Renegade.
I have a Suburban, with a small block v8, that constantly runs at 195 and does not overheat until well above 230.
Why does a 914 have to run at 180?
Andrew relax and enjoy the car, 195 is not too hot !!
George
Well I can answer that, Renegade.
I have a Suburban, with a small block v8, that constantly runs at 195 and does not overheat until well above 230.
Why does a 914 have to run at 180?
Andrew relax and enjoy the car, 195 is not too hot !!
George
| QUOTE (tesserra @ Sep 29 2005, 05:39 PM) |
| Where did this conventional wisdom of anything over 180 is over heating come from? Well I can answer that, Renegade. I have a Suburban, with a small block v8, that constantly runs at 195 and does not overheat until well above 230. Why does a 914 have to run at 180? Andrew relax and enjoy the car, 195 is not too hot !! George |
It only buged me because it ran so stable at other times 0mph-60 and 80-100 but would climb higher 60-80. Till it burped out that last bit of air.
Little note of interest..
Contrary to what you usually read...
We ran a bunch o dyno tests on high horsepower small blocks during the early 90s.
They always made more HP when the water temp was 160 or so. the moment the water temp went to 180 or greater... the HP would slowly fall off.
This is the opposite of what is written in most magazines.
And yes, the engine would produce prodigous unburned gas and CO rankings on the exaust gas analyzer. (Horiba)
By da way... if ya have aluminum heads... They like hotter water temps.. Like 195-210 constant. They don't care... just makes for a bit less HP and cleaner exhaust.
By the way... (for most engines) Where to time an engine is in part directly related to what operating temperature the engine is typically run at. The hotter an engine runs. The less spark advance can be dialed in.... before bad things happen...!!
Twystd1
Contrary to what you usually read...
We ran a bunch o dyno tests on high horsepower small blocks during the early 90s.
They always made more HP when the water temp was 160 or so. the moment the water temp went to 180 or greater... the HP would slowly fall off.
This is the opposite of what is written in most magazines.
And yes, the engine would produce prodigous unburned gas and CO rankings on the exaust gas analyzer. (Horiba)
By da way... if ya have aluminum heads... They like hotter water temps.. Like 195-210 constant. They don't care... just makes for a bit less HP and cleaner exhaust.
By the way... (for most engines) Where to time an engine is in part directly related to what operating temperature the engine is typically run at. The hotter an engine runs. The less spark advance can be dialed in.... before bad things happen...!!
Twystd1
| QUOTE (tesserra @ Sep 29 2005, 05:39 PM) |
| Where did this conventional wisdom of anything over 180 is over heating come from? Well I can answer that, Renegade. I have a Suburban, with a small block v8, that constantly runs at 195 and does not overheat until well above 230. Why does a 914 have to run at 180? Andrew relax and enjoy the car, 195 is not too hot !! George |
George,
When are we going to see your ride? Do we have to have a meet in Lafayette?
My 283 914 runs around 180 and gets up to 215 when flogged. Seems fine to me. I am running one of those thermostat housings with the radiator cap on top and it makes it easy to fill and purge. If there is an air bubble it will tend to overheat a bit. If your rad cap is not at the top of the system the air can't escape.
It sounds like you are not actually having a problem though. Don't do this...
Alex
It sounds like you are not actually having a problem though. Don't do this...
Alex
Let me stop yall and say that im not saying 195 or even 210 is overheating...
I was giving everyone a temp update because I know some people who want to know how home built radiator systems work... It was climbing slowly and I thought that from some observations, I could make it a little more efficent with cooling. Like if I ever ran on a 120 degree day (god forbid)
Another thing to note is that my radiator was in direct sunlight all the way (open hood). and my hood is black.
Andrew.
I was giving everyone a temp update because I know some people who want to know how home built radiator systems work... It was climbing slowly and I thought that from some observations, I could make it a little more efficent with cooling. Like if I ever ran on a 120 degree day (god forbid)
Another thing to note is that my radiator was in direct sunlight all the way (open hood). and my hood is black.
Andrew.
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