As I'm digging into my rust repair job, I'm wondering how much I should repair. From what I've seen so far, I need to replace the following:
Rear of inner rocker panel
Passenger suspension console
Passenger Engine Shelf
Lower passenger firewall
Rear Passenger floor
Both engine area jack points
Various holes here and there.

I've definitely decided to keep this tub, so replacing it with a rust free roller is not an option. My original intent was to at least replace the suspension console and fix the longitudinal. But, as I was looking at pics and slide shows on the Restoration Design site, I couldn't help but get the feeling that it wasn't right to just do part of it. However, to do it right, I'd want to take out the interior, probably pull off the rear fender, and then probably do body work and get a new paint job. I'm currently renting a duplex with a single car garage, which doesn't lend itself well to doing all of that work. We do plan on buying a house within the next couple of years, which will definitely have a two car garage. Also, there's not room in the budget for all that work right now. Considering that I've only driven my car around the block, I'm afraid that I won't have the motivation to complete the restoration without having driven it for awhile.
So, here's my question. Given the above circumstances, would I be better off coming up with a temporary fix for the things need fixing? Seeing as how a lot the pieces will need to be removed when I do a complete restoration, what about using some metal welded on over the longs to fix that, and perhaps coming up with a way to temporarily fix my suspension ear? I know that in the long run it's not good to just weld new metal on over rusty metal, but I would think for a year or two, it would suffice. When I have the space, money, and sufficient motivation to finish, I could remove the temporary patches when I do the complete restoration. Is this a stupid idea? Sorry for the long post, just wanted to give a complete description of my dilemma.

Here's the two areas that need fixing to make it driveable:
The suspension ear:



The long:


applescotty

Not to be harsh, but common sense would dictate to fix the items that could affect your Saftey while driving the car

So that would be:

Passenger suspension console

Next would be the longitudals where they meet up with the engine compartment shelf, if this area is not in good shape as well, your car could fold in half

Geez, that rust is ugly. Temp fixes may be just as costly as biting the bullet depending on your skill. You also want to consider the safety factor. When my Dad's 914 was DNR, the bodyshop told me it would likely begin to come apart if I drove it for any length of time.

Good luck.

I definitely agree on the safety aspect. That's why I want to get the suspension console and long repaired. But, the fix them safely, do I need to replace them, or is it possible to weld some pieces onto the long to strengthen it, and perhaps weld up the crack on the suspension ear, along with maybe another piece of metal to provide it with more strength?

do yourself a favor and get a good console and longs from a rust-free donor-car. cut them out and put the whole crapola in your car.

talk to Jenny, she'll have a rust-free roller for sale by monday.

you'll save yourself a ton of time and money and headaches ....

Andy

the new parts aren't really expensive either, it's the labor that costs $$. So, if you can do that yourself, it's not a big expense.

cut out the rusted crap and weld in new pieces
don't go welding pieces of sheet metal to cover rusted areas (it won't last)

cheers,

Jeroen

You guys aren't telling me what I want to hear.

I understand that any 'patches' I make aren't going to last. But, will they last for a few years, until I have the time and money to fix it right? Realigning the broken pieces, welding them together, and then welding some sheet metal on top of that to reinforce it has got to be faster and cheaper than replacing the parts completely.

Nope. Not cheaper. I can cut and weld in everything you have shown for 1500$. It will take you longer to try and weld over rust than it would to cut it out and replace with virgin metal.


You know you will get the steel for nearly free...

I can bring the pieces too you when I deliver Seans car to him in a month or so.


B

Did I understand you correctly when you said you were gonna deliver Sean's car in a month or so? Seanery Sean? I may have to put in an order for some goodies too!

Take ya out to Hooters or something for your troubles.

You wouldn't happen to have a visit with Geoff Bleyseng planned between now and then? He's got a FI Brain I'm buying from him....just start taking orders now from all of us poor saps out here in the Midwest and fill 'em with nice rust free parts from the sunny west coast. Exactly how much room are you gonna have in your truck?

I may pick it up...don't get too excited.

Awww, man!

In addition, you will never be able to weld anything over that inner suspension console ear. That appears to be blobs of brazing filler on that--and welding over brazing is... Well, let's just say it is unlikely to work correctly...

If you're definitely keeping the tub and fixing the car, then fix it. Don't do a bunch of half-fast patch-up jobs. If you want the "cheap and easy" fix, replace the tub.

--DD

From TWEEKS catalog:

1970-76 Suspension Console icluding trailing arm mount item # 400-124 $199


others have them as well.