First off, some info. 1970 914-6 Chassis. Acid dipped. Left outside last winter (not by me). Getting a 993 non-VarioRam 3.6, Wevo 915, GT Flares, all the fun bits.

And the first order of business is sorting out the chassis. Starting with the rear trunk. These are some freaky looking reinforcement plates poorly welded in. I'm guessing they were for a rear sway bar.

And cut...

And weld...

Stay tuned...

schweet, "Blackie" is finally getting the attention she deserves !!!

Andy

PS: btw. was that "timing" freaky or what? remember when we talked about the car?

Mark,

I'll make a prediction right now...I bet you're done with that 3.6 914 before mine is done.....

ouch...

Bill P.

Time to address the front passenger side headlight area. Lots of rust holes up here.

Cut out the old brace piece for replacement as well as access to the area behind it. More rusty sections.

Without the flash you can really see how much swiss chesse it's got.

The front section ready to be replaced.

And just like that... *POOF* ... it's done.

Inner wheelhousing swiss cheese.

Bada-Bing. Bada-Boom. Nice new metal.

And finally, drop the new brace into place and ZAAAAAAAAAP.

All the patch pieces were from another car, bead blasted, and cut to fit.

QUOTE (McMark @ Oct 6 2005, 11:46 AM)

Without the flash you can really see how much swiss chesse it's got.

another reason I don't want mine dipped...

Are you going to add reinforcements and Engman kit?

Nice work BTW...

I'll probably add the Engman kit. I'm not sure anything else is worth it.

Nice work indeed

I'll be watching this thread closely.

Looks good!!

That is some lovely welding skillz!!

QUOTE (neo914-6 @ Oct 6 2005, 01:02 PM)

another reason I don't want mine dipped...

yes, but the rustholes are *not* from the dipping, they were in there before. the dipping just made them show up better.

also, the surface rust you see now is due to the fact that the tub had been sitting *outside* for a year after it was dipped ...
not good by any stretch ...

Andy

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Oct 6 2005, 03:03 PM)

QUOTE (neo914-6 @ Oct 6 2005, 01:02 PM) another reason I don't want mine dipped... yes, but the rustholes are *not* from the dipping, they were in there before. the dipping just made them show up better. also, the surface rust you see now is due to the fact that the tub had been sitting *outside* for a year after it was dipped ... not good by any stretch ... Andy

I know about this car, that was just my sarcasm of not wanting to know what "may" be there...

I'm relying on your expert eye when you patched the "big" ones, of course it just takes time and more neglect on my part to grow more holes...

Mark,

Do you metal finish both sides or just the "visible" side?

How do you deal with the surfaces you can't spray paint? I like the idea of dipping to get everything down to metal but it seems you'd also need to dip the whole car in paint to coat every nook & cranny...

I didn't metal work both sides because the project doesn't allow for it ($). I don't believe that acid dipping and a normal thorough paint job will lead to a more rust prone car than anything the factory did. Dip it, paint it, done.

Just got a PM. The sender will remain anonymous. Just wanted to clarify a few things.

The rust you see on the 3.6 I'm working on is caused by two factors.

1. The car was painted with sealer by the people who did the acid dipping. These people are obviously not painters so they didn't do a very good job. Had they covered the car more thoroughly there wouldn't have been a problem. Even with factor #2.

2. The car was left outside in the rain for over a year. All the areas that got poor sealer coverage have started rusting. There are areas where you can obviously see the poor spray pattern outlined in rust.

I'm not out to convince everyone to acid dip their cars, but for me, I believe 100%.

If you want to debate dipping vs blasting, please start a new thread.

QUOTE (McMark @ Oct 7 2005, 09:02 PM)

I'm not out to convince everyone to acid dip their cars, but for me, I believe 100%.

do a search here for before and after pictures of this car regarding the acid dip ...

this car had been sitting *outside*, completely stripped to the bare metal with just a coat of primer for over a year, for a complete raining season, before mark got it in his shop.

i actually think the shell looks remarkably good all things considered ...
Andy

ok, now i'm getting in the middle of this as well ...

here's my response to "you know who":

============================================
yes, there certainly is a problem now and we have been pondering on how to fix it. the initial idea was to have it dipped again, but the owner doesn't want to spent the money.
there is rust coming out of all the seams now because that's where the primer didn't get in very well but the rain water could.
i just want to make clear that this is *not* the leftover acid seeping out of the cracks, the whole car was soaked in a neutralizing bath for a day after the dipping.

our best bet at this point is to soak all the seams in Metal-Ready for a few days ...
============================================

Andy

Rear firewall had some nice rot.

This was a challenging piece to put in because it's the firewall section as well as engine shelf.

There were a couple gaps which were larger than I like, but it all worked out okay.

Here it is from the other side.

Also, a nice bit in the drivers footwell.

I cut out the patch piece and then traced it and then cut it out.

Works pretty well.

QUOTE (McMark @ Oct 13 2005, 09:12 PM)

This picture will be replaced with a picture from the engine side of things.

hey, not sure how crazy you want to get on this car, but watching my friend raffi bring old sportscars back to live, one thing they do with those pitted areas that had surface rust but are not actually rusted through,
they fill them in with brass ...

i guess that's one of the reasons why he gets big $$$ for his cars, they always spent TONS of hours making them perfect ...
Andy

Unfortunately it's not in the budget. But it's a great idea. I would think lead or body filler/glaze would work just as well. I think we'll end up just covering them with carpet.

QUOTE (McMark @ Oct 13 2005, 09:19 PM)

Unfortunately it's not in the budget. But it's a great idea. I would think lead or body filler/glaze would work just as well. I think we'll end up just covering them with carpet.

yeah, lead would kill 'ya quick too !

too bad it's not in the budget. if i ever end up doing a car "right" that will be one of the things i won't cheap out on ...
Andy

New updates finally.
Rusty inner fender.

All fixed.

Pedal cluster was rusted out. Notice the cluster mounting studs are sheared off.

New metal, new studs. I just used plain sheet metal here since it'll be hidden under the cluster.

New rear floor pans. I hate doing floor pans.

While I was in there I repaired the clutch tube and made sure everything was a-okay while I had access. Nice new solid floor pans.

The 3.6 install in this car is actually a little unique. Since it's an original six it's not as easy as welding in an aftermarket six mount setup. Further complicating the install was the fact that this car is going to have air conditioning. So this required a custom mount to be fabricated. A stock six mount will bolt up, but would require a custom AC mounting setup. I decided to modify the stock 3.6 mount to be a hybrid 3.6/914-6 mount.

Here is an image of a stock six engine mount.

Here is an animated GIF which flip flops between a stock 914-6 mount and a stock 3.6 mount with my welding jig.

Finally, here's the finished product. Now I'm ready to test fit the motor in the car.

Another angle.

wow, that's purdy.

McMark, you've got skills man.

Is it going to fit with the extra pulley/dampner? I removed those items on my 3.6.

I had to use the stock pulley system because of the AC setup. It's all there and bolted up.

This project is finally under way again. We had some stopping and stalling by both me and my customer. But regardless, fun stuff is happening.

I started out by thoroughly cleaning the car and using Por-15 Metal Ready liberally. All the rust is converted and the whole chassis will be scuffed with 80 grit and Metal Ready re-applied just before paint. The white coating on things is the protective zinc left behind by the Metal Ready. It will be cleaned up before paint.

I got the 31 mm SMART Racing front sway bar installed. No big deal, the instructions are very clear and the process is very straight forward. For the inner reinforcement plates I drilled a few holes and then used a file to open it up to the correct size. This made a very clean hole that is just the right size and has nice square corners.

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I'm using a stock 993 fuel pump to feed the motor. They're really cheap (~$125) and I know it's the correct flow rate, volume, pressure, etc. I took quite awhile to decide where to mount it. I wanted it close to the tank since the pump isn't meant to suck, it's meant to push. And I wanted it accessible without removing the tank. I'm satisfied with my final location. It will address both my needs and will be completely hidden.

I cut a hole in the passenger compartment. This location goes right into the area where the fuel lines sit.
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Here is the gigantic pump mounted to the first piece of the cover. I'll add some side plates to completely seal this area off from water or fuel vapor.
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This is what it looks like in place. I will add four 6 mm x 1.0 bolts to hold it in place.
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And here's what it looks like from the other side.
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