What might cause this, oh mighty 914world.com brain trust?

I feel like i'm talking to the Wizard in the wizard of oz. =-)

Thanks,
Roger

Did they previously?

Check grounds up there... make sure the fuse is in place... look at a dot on a wall for 9 hours..

Oh yeah! FIRE! Check voltage at relay, under cover of the light... hahaha... I make a Strolling Bones funny..



M

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Oct 1 2005, 03:22 PM)

What might cause this, oh mighty 914world.com brain trust? I feel like i'm talking to the Wizard in the wizard of oz. =-) Thanks, Roger

Mine motor but do not illuminate, must be headlight day.....

Fuses seem obvious, (mine are okay, by the way)

Roger between the two of us we would have one functioning car!

John

P.S. Where is James (lapuwali) when he is really needed?

QUOTE (Flat VW @ Oct 1 2005, 04:33 PM)

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Oct 1 2005, 03:22 PM) What might cause this, oh mighty 914world.com brain trust?    :lol: I feel like i'm talking to the Wizard in the wizard of oz.  =-) Thanks, Roger Mine motor but do not illuminate, must be headlight day..... Fuses seem obvious, (mine are okay, by the way) Roger between the two of us we would have one functioning car! John P.S. Where is James (lapuwali) when he is really needed?

Yea' really. Lapuali is way up there when it comes to 914 brain power.

I was thinking the lights didn't come on until the headlights went up. Isn't that right?

Yes, before my little 914 wiener roast the headlight did work nicely.

Check out this link in the classics thread section How your headlight motors work.


It may help you out.

The usual cause of both headlights refusing to pop up while both lights turn on is a defective Light Switch. Usually, pin 56k burns out. But, to be on the safe side, check for voltage on pin 56k, a gray wire attached there. If there ain't no volts there with the Light Switch pulled all the way out, then either your Light Switch or your Ignition Switch is defective. No fuses are involved.

Good luck at it,

Phil

There is one green and one gray wire that control the up and down motion.

QUOTE (94teener @ Oct 1 2005, 06:07 PM)

The usual cause of both headlights refusing to pop up while both lights turn on is a defective Light Switch. Usually, pin 56k burns out. But, to be on the safe side, check for voltage on pin 56k, a gray wire attached there. If there ain't no volts there with the Light Switch pulled all the way out, then either your Light Switch or your Ignition Switch is defective. No fuses are involved. Good luck at it, Phil

Cool.

Looks like my light and ignition switches are toast. No juice at pin 56. Musta been a heck of a short behind the dash, but as i'm going through each circuit individually, so far i havent seen any other shorts.

She'll be back on the road soon enough.

Mark, Clay, and Phil, Thanks!


I ended up finding a new marine grade, 12 fuse, blade style, fuse block.

Still want to procure some marine rocker switches to finish her off with.

Like this.

Oh yea, and this looks like the replacement fuse block.

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Oct 1 2005, 09:24 PM)

Oh yea, and this looks like the replacement fuse block.

In my best "Tony Montana" voice; (discussing adding fog lights to a 928)

"Hey, yeah that's a good idea, in case I get caught in a swamp!"

Once you get over the heart attack from the price of the replacement headlight switch, cruise over to a Bug shop and look at the switch for a Beetle or Type 3. They look identical externally, but only have 6 or 8 terminals instead of 10. They also cost about 10% as much as what the 914 switch costs. It's obviously not a direct swap, and I haven't (yet) worked out the details on what wiring changes need to be made to swap switches, but it *should* be possible to make the cheaper switches work.

The switch needs to only have 4 terminals: power in, dimmer out (for gauges), parking out (switch pulled out one stop), low beam out (switch pulled out two stops). I haven't even figured out why the Bug switch has 6 terminals, let alone why the 914 switch has 10...

For the ignition switch, the electrical part is fairly cheap still ($14), and can be easily separated from the key portion.

So, on that marine fuse box, you think you'll really need the depth sounder? Should we just call you the U-boat commander?