Hello! I have had slight popping noise from my exhaust while I was downshifting and in between shifts. I think I narrowed it down to a possible exhaust leak after searching this forum. Well, I pullled off the exhaust. All the nuts were tight but not that tight. After gettig the heat exchangers off, I noticed that one of the flanges (if that is what you call them) that attach to the head was covered with black soot. Problem?? So anyway, I have new seals and was wondering what torque they need to be. The Haynes manual does not specify. I sure don't want to break an exhaust stud!!! How can I tell if they are properly seated. Any advice/experience would be much appreciated. Thanks!

heat those copper gaskets red hot then quench them in water....unlike ferrous metals, quenched copper is softer than its original strength...

Thanks, any thing else I should be aware of before I break an exhaust stud?

After you ger the HE's off, make sure the tops are flat with each other. Mark the tops of the pipes with a permanent marker. Using a large flat file, carefully file the tops flat. Make sure the file covers BOTH pipes at the same time. don't do them one at a time or they will not be even with each other. Go slow and easy. The marker will let you know where you are fileing and when they are flat and even with each other.

Mark

Any time I pull the exhaust off I always use new copper gaskets. I also put a little copper RTV on them to hold in place and seems to help seal too. I also use the correct copper alloy exhaust nuts. New ones work gooder.
Just about every order from Pelican has 4 new exhaust gaskets and nuts in the order.

Got to figure out a good use for them stickers they always send. My tool box is covered.

Hey Britt you learn that in school? The proccess you should be referring to is Anealing and you don't want to quench the copper. Just let it cool slowly.

nope it's reverse for copper.....

look it up...


b

QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Oct 4 2005, 09:57 AM)

Any time I pull the exhaust off I always use new copper gaskets. I also put a little copper RTV on them to hold in place and seems to help seal too. I also use the correct copper alloy exhaust nuts. New ones work gooder. Just about every order from Pelican has 4 new exhaust gaskets and nuts in the order. Got to figure out a good use for them stickers they always send. My tool box is covered. Hey Britt you learn that in school? The proccess you should be referring to is Anealing and you don't want to quench the copper. Just let it cool slowly.

believe it or not, Britt is correct on this one

only problem with re-using the gaskets is that once used, they are now thinner due to being compressed....they are cheap enough that new ones should be bought, but they can be re-used if one so decides to.

and yes joe, I did learn that in school.....



b

Hmm, Maybe I should go back and learn something.

Hey ya'll chaulk one up for Britt. WANNA RACE?

i dont race.

Nobody has said this yet:
DON"T OVERTORQUE THOSE EXHAUST STUD NUTS

There. I feel betterer.
I'm pretty sure you will find a torque spec on Pelican's site. I know ITS NOT MUCH. Like 8 lbs. Maybe 13, but not much. Those studs will spin right outa there pretty EZ.

Hand tight... not upper body tight!




M

I went through this entire process about a year ago. Had a popping noise and thought it must be an exhaust leak, so removed and replaced seals on heat exchangers and re-torqued. When I was done, still had the popping.

Turns out it was old fuel injectors. Replaced them and car runs like a fine tuned machine! Just something to check later, if required.

Yea but he said that there wer tell tale signs of the gaskets not sealing.
Yes popping in the exhaust can be caused my too rich a mixture. Injectors not spraying fuel in fine mist do that too. Good catch.

Did some one say race? Yes please

Ok, I reinstalled my exhaust but it is still popping upon decel. I used all new copper rings and I tried to square up everything by evening up the exposed threads. I just don't think they are sealing all the way, at least not all of them. I checked that the flanges were square before I put them on, they looked good. I have also checked everything else prior to pulling the exhaust; timing, mixture (Ihave carbs) and have checked the plugs, they also looked good. The car idles perfect and runs great except for the popping. Any suggestions???? thanks

You could always use 2 copper gaskets on each pipe with lost of copper rtv. I know that is probably SO wrong but it was the only way for me to get mine sealed.
Are you running carbs or fi? If carbs you may be rich if FI you mey be rich. In other words after sealing the pipes to the best of your ability check your intake. Also what muffler are you using? How are those gaskets? I found that I had more leaks with my MONZA than with my Bursch. I still love the way it sounded I just wish it actually allower the exhaust to get out
good luck

If you removed the heat exchangers, did you pull the exhaust all the way out as well, or just leave it hanging in place ? I had popping and some audible exhaust noise, and I didn't locate the cause until I pulled the exhaust out from under the car and looked at it. Someone backed the car into something solid and put a dent in the rear side of the muffler. further around towards the front, a slight fold resulted, which had a little crack in it. Around the crack was a little bit of black soot (okay, I was running rich...) Anyway, I brazed this shut and it made a world of improvement.