Hey all--
Smelling fuel and noticing fluid leaks under the 914 and had a mechanic inspect. Said I need to repair/recondition my fuel tank and my master cylinder is leaking fluid.
Regarding the tank--would it be better to have him repair this (send away and a 3-4 week project--don't know price yet), replce with NOS if available or try to recondition on my own??
Not sure on the Master Cylinder leaks--safe to drive or could my brakes fail at any time??
Also said 3 of my 4 wheels (custome Forgeline alloys) are bent and need fixed/reconditioned and then need to balance/align before repairing brakes--expected costs? Recomendations?
Thanks--John
Full Version: Fuel Tank and Master Cylinder Leaks--HELP!!
ouch...sounds like some money going out the door soon 
tank= depends "why" it is leaking..if hoses, it's an easy cheap fix to DIY, if the tank has holes, then a replacement is better, figure a few hundred to find a tank and you might as well clean it and get it perfect before installing it
mastercylinder= not too bad to replace, figure a newbie, a few hours plus bleeding the brakes
bent rims= there are places that'll fix them, look on-line or I know I've seen ads in Car and Driver or those type magazines
good luck and post some pictures of your car
tank= depends "why" it is leaking..if hoses, it's an easy cheap fix to DIY, if the tank has holes, then a replacement is better, figure a few hundred to find a tank and you might as well clean it and get it perfect before installing it
mastercylinder= not too bad to replace, figure a newbie, a few hours plus bleeding the brakes
bent rims= there are places that'll fix them, look on-line or I know I've seen ads in Car and Driver or those type magazines
good luck and post some pictures of your car
Hey man
Pulling the tank is a good job for you...check it yourself.
Its a real good idea if you wash out your tank anyways, you would be surprised what collects after 30 years. Por15 makes a great cleaning/sealer kit, but if it is realy leaking...junk it. IMHO sealers are good for once in a lifetime maintenance not for a repair.
If the tank checks out, I would suspect the lines. Any type of a fuel smell is a red flag for a "once over" anyways, considering the reputation the 914 has
Replacing these lines are often done by the owners, but we are a handy bunch.
For the master cyl, look into the bigger/better 911 cyl. Its not expensive, and coupled with steel flex lines make for a hell of a better stop.
Of course this all depends $$$$, but maybe a close club member wants to help out?
Anyways good luck with it, play safe.
welcome aboard, and where the pics ?
later
Pulling the tank is a good job for you...check it yourself.
Its a real good idea if you wash out your tank anyways, you would be surprised what collects after 30 years. Por15 makes a great cleaning/sealer kit, but if it is realy leaking...junk it. IMHO sealers are good for once in a lifetime maintenance not for a repair.
If the tank checks out, I would suspect the lines. Any type of a fuel smell is a red flag for a "once over" anyways, considering the reputation the 914 has
Replacing these lines are often done by the owners, but we are a handy bunch.
For the master cyl, look into the bigger/better 911 cyl. Its not expensive, and coupled with steel flex lines make for a hell of a better stop.
Of course this all depends $$$$, but maybe a close club member wants to help out?
Anyways good luck with it, play safe.
welcome aboard, and where the pics ?
later
| QUOTE (2pointOH @ Oct 5 2005, 03:36 PM) |
| Recomendations? |
i wouldn't drive it ...
tank:
two things to look for. it could be just the fuel lines where they connect to the tank at the bottom. i'd check that first, easy fix.
second, the tanks like to rust right in the center near the fresh air box where they sit on a piece of padding that acts like a sponge when wet.
you'll have to remove the tank to check for that. often, i just looks like surface rust but you get the micro-holes and when the tank is full, gas seeps through ...
brake MC:
fix it now! do not drive the car! seriously, a new MC is not all that expensive ...
Andy
Gawd!!! a few hundered for a tank!!!! I parted with one not too long ago for about $60, nice one too, sender and everything.
leaky master means don't drive the car until it is resolved.
Gas tank may or may not be bad, you need to raise the car, remove the two small, and two large bolts, ans drop the coverplate. This will expose the hoses and bottom of the tank. You also can get a very good very of the inside of the tank by removing the filler assembly, just remove the half dozen or so little bolts around the filler hole, (and remove the expansion tank) and you get a big four inch or so opening to look into, also you can look inside thru the float gage hole.
when messing with the hoses, under tank, do it outside, not in the garage, or near any source of flame/spark Wrong tug or bend on the possibly Brittle plastic lines that the rubber hoses hook too, and the entire tank starts pouring out ont eh floor, not pretty in the garage with a water heater! You can't even push the car out cause its up on stands! FIRE.
leaky master means don't drive the car until it is resolved.
Gas tank may or may not be bad, you need to raise the car, remove the two small, and two large bolts, ans drop the coverplate. This will expose the hoses and bottom of the tank. You also can get a very good very of the inside of the tank by removing the filler assembly, just remove the half dozen or so little bolts around the filler hole, (and remove the expansion tank) and you get a big four inch or so opening to look into, also you can look inside thru the float gage hole.
when messing with the hoses, under tank, do it outside, not in the garage, or near any source of flame/spark Wrong tug or bend on the possibly Brittle plastic lines that the rubber hoses hook too, and the entire tank starts pouring out ont eh floor, not pretty in the garage with a water heater! You can't even push the car out cause its up on stands! FIRE.
Both the MC and the gas tank could turn into bigger problems. Also could lead to DWD. If your MC is leaking you need to replace it. If the brake lines are corroded you will most likely be replacing more then the MC, it all depends if they break free or just plain break. You wont know whats going on with the gas tank untill you inspect more. If its a good tank you may just have to replace some seals. Its a good time to replace the sock/filter inside the tank and get it cleaned for about $50. If you need a replacement tank just look around here or ebay they always pop up. Cheap too.
John,
If you're going to tackle these projects on your own I'd first try to better understand what the problems are. Is the master cylinder leaking from around where it's bolted to the body? If so, then it definitely requires a rebuild or replacement. I think new 19mm MCs run about $175. If it looks like the brake fluid is coming from the top of the MC, it's probably the rubber grommets on the reservoir lines are old or the lines need to be reseated into the top of the MC. Another possibility is the fluid is running down the reservoir lines from higher up. Check the reservoir and make sure it was not overfilled and spilling over, and that the two short rubber hoses are in good condition and the clamps are tight.
Gas odor is common on these cars so check on the vapor recovery tank hoses and make sure they are all attached and in good condition. Look or feel under the tank through the access hole and see if there's gas actually leaking underneath. If you're going to pull it I would syphon or pump as much gas as you can into 5 gal gas cans. If it needs repair you can check a local radiator shop and they can boil them out and fix the holes - unless it's really rusted out. Check the threaded fittings under the tank and reseal them as they will seep gas after 30 years. Replace the rubber fuel lines. They connect to steel lines under the tank before they transition to plastic further into the tunnel. Good luck and be careful around the gas.
If you're going to tackle these projects on your own I'd first try to better understand what the problems are. Is the master cylinder leaking from around where it's bolted to the body? If so, then it definitely requires a rebuild or replacement. I think new 19mm MCs run about $175. If it looks like the brake fluid is coming from the top of the MC, it's probably the rubber grommets on the reservoir lines are old or the lines need to be reseated into the top of the MC. Another possibility is the fluid is running down the reservoir lines from higher up. Check the reservoir and make sure it was not overfilled and spilling over, and that the two short rubber hoses are in good condition and the clamps are tight.
Gas odor is common on these cars so check on the vapor recovery tank hoses and make sure they are all attached and in good condition. Look or feel under the tank through the access hole and see if there's gas actually leaking underneath. If you're going to pull it I would syphon or pump as much gas as you can into 5 gal gas cans. If it needs repair you can check a local radiator shop and they can boil them out and fix the holes - unless it's really rusted out. Check the threaded fittings under the tank and reseal them as they will seep gas after 30 years. Replace the rubber fuel lines. They connect to steel lines under the tank before they transition to plastic further into the tunnel. Good luck and be careful around the gas.
| QUOTE (dmenche914 @ Oct 5 2005, 07:01 PM) |
| Gas tank may or may not be bad, you need to raise the car, remove the two small, and two large bolts, ans drop the coverplate. This will expose the hoses and bottom of the tank. |
This may depend on the year. On my 1976 2.0 L, when I remove that plate from beneath the car, all I see is steering and brake stuff. The access to the fuel pump and filter is double top secret. In case your car is like mine, here's what to do. In the front trunk there is a fairly vertical panel behind the spare tire well. Pull the carpet up from the drivers side bottom of this panel to reveal an inoccuous looking black panel held on by screws. Undo the screws and the exposed two bolts (that hold the pump to the panel) and remove. Pull the fuel pump and filter out (I dare you not to think about intestines...) and you'll be able to check out some of the fuel lines (and replace the filter while you're at it). One of my hoses was so brittle that just flexing it caused it to start leaking pretty heavily. DO make sure you're in a safe outdoor place before you start.
Master cylinder is fairly straightforward, but if you haven't done it before, you should know that bleeding the brakes afterwards (a neccesity) can be a real PITA. It's possible with just a small piece of tubing and a helper, but I'd strongly recommend that you buy (or borrow from a 914 club member) a pressure brake bleeder by Motive Products. Just pump it up and bleeding is simple to do, even alone. And on a 914, for some reason, you've got to bleed the brakes several (many ?) times until the braking response gets back to its normal, still kinda spongy feel.
me and Al (dralf) had to bleed my brakes three or four times before I lost my spongy feeling.....
that was so scary though....pedal to floor, no brake......
that was so scary though....pedal to floor, no brake......
Got a fairly new 19mm MC. If interested PM me for details.
If your fuel tank is leaking or has pin holes. Get it done at an authorized Gas Tank Renu dealer. I wouldn't get the outside done, which will give you a two year guarantee vrs lifetime if you get the outside coated. It just won't look right to get the outside coated, which in reality is for a tank mounted under a car not in the front trunk. It will last as long as you own the car.
Like the others have said though, check the fuel lines, as that is probably the culprit.
I wouldn't buy another used fuel tank vrs getting yours treated. If you buy another tank, you'll just have another used fuel tank. If you get it treated with the Gas Tank Renu system, it will be fixed right.
Like the others have said though, check the fuel lines, as that is probably the culprit.
I wouldn't buy another used fuel tank vrs getting yours treated. If you buy another tank, you'll just have another used fuel tank. If you get it treated with the Gas Tank Renu system, it will be fixed right.
| QUOTE (2pointOH @ Oct 5 2005, 02:36 PM) |
| Smelling fuel and noticing fluid leaks under the 914 and had a mechanic inspect. Said I need to repair/recondition my fuel tank and my master cylinder is leaking fluid. |
[QUOTE]
You can tell a gas leak from a brake fluid leak, no? One smells like gas (on your finger tip) and the other feels like thin oil (on your finger tip).
Gas leak, drive it to your house to fix it,
brake fluid leak, have it towed to your house to fix it.
IMHO
if its you braking system, please please don't chance anything......
i dont want to see a 914r get hurt.....
b
i dont want to see a 914r get hurt.....
b
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.