Car drove great yesterday. 80 miles round trip to brians engine party...., ran like a top. front oil cooler works great....rennshift is superb....

Hop in car today. Click the start....lights right up... handbrake is on. i NOTICE my handbrake warning light is spazzing... (on off realllll fast)
i figure a dying relay (like turn signal relays fail...) pull out after car is warmed up....

drive down the street in 1st.... waaaaa oooooommmmmmm and decel to a stop. 1000 ft downhill from my house. I say wtf.
pop engine lid.... and behold... POSITIVE battery terminal is off. Key is off... hook it back up.

go to start car... and it cranks, and everything else works fine...

Hyfirebox Diagnostic LED works... so the CDI is fine. blinks 3x when it sees switched + (ignition to ON)
and is supposed to blink when motor is cranking (see's trigger from unilite and senses starter load)

behold... no trigger signal from unilite. oh joy.
checked all wires... used VOM meter to exhaust all possibilites....

NO SIGNAL FROM GREEN TRIGGER WIRE ON UNILITE>>>>

oh boy..... lets see how much one of these cost.....
i think herr mueller fried one also....



just wanted to drive my f-in car to the store.....

im ready to say F U to the car......

bummer.....

mine fried due to bad wiring on my part....

$70 or so from Summit Racing for a new one.

Do you have the "spike" protector on yours that I mentioned a while back??

Don't throw the modual away, it can be repaired.

QUOTE (Mueller @ Oct 9 2005, 02:24 PM)

bummer..... mine fried due to bad wiring on my part.... $70 or so from Summit Racing for a new one. Do you have the "spike" protector on yours that I mentioned a while back?? Don't throw the modual away, it can be repaired.

no active power filter.....

Repaired?
century wants 90 for a new one....


fried a transistor?

QUOTE

Voltage always stays below 3.0 Volts. This means that the module has been spiked by high voltage or amperage, the lack of a ballast resistor, or it was improperly wired

mine never saw above 3V...

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Oct 9 2005, 02:18 PM)

im ready to say F U to the car......

Say it!!!

But get it fixed...

Bummer.

if it makes you feel better, a tree fell on my car a couple of weeks ago....

what IRKS me is that i *JUST* got the intermittant misfire sorted (

QUOTE

hyfire works with any coil

BS!! i had to buy a mallory super low impedance coil to make it work)

and it ran like a raped ape yesterday....

and today.. back to square one....

Hey Aaron

Unfortunatly your car did spike past 12+ volts. When a battery cable get loose, the voltage will spike very high, very fast. How much of that spikes gets back to the module depaends on, where and how it is hooked to the power supply. I have seen many old timer mechanics checking a charging system, disconnecting the battery when the car is running. This is playing Russian Rollette, with the chips in a modern day alternator.
I imagine thats what happened if I understand that the cable popped off on the road, a capacitor will help.
90$ could be worse, you would figure that we would eventually get used to it.....goota love em

Any ways, heres some positive Karma your way
Later

Be glad that thing broke and stopped your engine before your alternator diodes fried... Which is easier to change?

ive been getting deal after deal lately..... so maybe this is karma

Miles said he ordered a hit on the module quote

QUOTE

"He knew too much, and wasnt benefiacl to keep around"

Mike - how do you repair them?
MecGen - a capacitor inline to the switched power to the CDI box/Dizzy?

QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 9 2005, 03:13 PM)

Be glad that thing broke and stopped your engine before your alternator diodes fried... Which is easier to change?

whats more expensive to change...

after much reading, I am leaning towards replacing mine with a VR type instead of IR/LED

QUOTE

Mike - how do you repair them?

you have to figure out what fried...it's about $5 worth of parts inside if you replaced everything..don't you have some geeky electrical engineering buddies down there (Bondo???)

QUOTE (Mueller @ Oct 9 2005, 04:03 PM)

after much reading, I am leaning towards replacing mine with a VR type instead of IR/LED QUOTE Mike - how do you repair them? you have to figure out what fried...it's about $5 worth of parts inside if you replaced everything..don't you have some geeky electrical engineering buddies down there (Bondo???)

or my dad... masters in electrical engineering...

new one on ebay...cheaper than everywhere else....

94 bucks later... how much lighter is my wallet? how much faster am i now....

ill fix the old one incase i fry this one too....

that fuching sucks dood.

If it would have came from me I would pay for the replacement module....

QUOTE (Jake Raby @ Oct 9 2005, 08:03 PM)

If it would have came from me I would pay for the replacement module....

really? stupid car owner mistakes are covered?

you got my business....

ill be ordering some decked 1.7 rockers and swivel feet from ya.... and pushrods i guess too ...
soon Jake...

Man, I would really be pissed at the moron who didn't tighten the battery terminal!! Point him out and I'll kick his ass for ya.

Elliot

your mechanic stinks arron.

k

QUOTE (Elliot Cannon @ Oct 9 2005, 10:00 PM)

Man, I would really be pissed at the moron who didn't tighten the battery terminal!! Point him out and I'll kick his ass for ya. Elliot

that would be me.... dont get a hernia while throwing fists...

QUOTE

your mechanic stinks arron.

yup.... as the led zep song goes "Nobody's falt but mine..."

Don't worry - I did the same thing to my Unilite. It's a mistake you only make once...



Tom

QUOTE (Tom Perso @ Oct 10 2005, 08:05 AM)

Don't worry - I did the same thing to my Unilite. It's a mistake you only make once... Tom

cheap lesson at under 100 bucks

couldve been worse....