I got the MOMO wheel from Dougc and am going to recover it. I have got the leather coming. Is there anyplace to learn a baseball stich?

Its an easy stick to learn, but I don't know how to explain how to do it. I recovered the wheel in my dad's 911 (first time i had ever sewn leather) and it turned out great.

Did you get a leather recovering kit, or just a piece of leather?

I got a hide that is about 4' X2' I figure I can mess up a couple of times that way.

All I know is it's really hard on the hands! I think you'll need to use 2 needles & threads, and overlap(?). That's the only way my feeble little mind can see how to do it. I'd get a decent pair of gloves, and cut the tips of the fingers off, to protect your hands. I sliced mine pretty good doing my first one.

You are in luck today Larry.......go buy a lotto ticket!

I just took a break from installing a new AGLA cover on a leather wheel I'm doing for a door prize at the FFC. And since I'm in the process of actually doing the stitch you mentioned, I'll post a series of pics ('cause I'm too 'puter stupid to do it in one post ), so...

First let me say that you will go completely insane if you do this with raw, unpunched leather, it's bad enough with a kit......but if "crazy" is just a short walk from where you're at, and you have nothing but time...I applaud you!

Now the "stitch". I'm not sure how many spokes your MOMO has, but you'll want to do it in sections. Pull off 4 times as much thread as you think you'll need for each section....example of the amount of thread you'll use doing this stitch - I cut 30" of thread to do the small area between the spokes on a standard leather 914 steering wheel, and only had 6" to spare when I finished the section, so extra is better, it would suck to have to make a splice in the middle of the stitch.

Here we go...

A pic of where I stopped a few minutes ago...I use one needle, tried two, big PITA with two. Then I move the needle from one thread to the other (not a problem, big eye in the needle). The first pic shows the thread to your right, threaded approx. 3" through the needle, looped around to the opposite side to the next open hole below the thread on your left-hand side, then across to the open hole below the thread being pulled....hope that makes sense.

Thread pulled through to the right...

Left-hand thread entering the same hole that you just pulled the right-hand thread through, and out through the open hole below the origin of the thread...

Another pic showing the routing of the left-hand thread...(note that the left-hand thread enters the same hole as the right-hand thread exited...and then out through the open hole below the origin.)

pull them both tight...

Repeat the process.....

After about five or six successful stitches, I use the eye end of the needle to pull the stitches tighter in the direction of the stitch, and tuck any puckers in the leather inward.

Patients and good lighting are essential. If you need me to clarify any of the steps, let me know....good luck!


Oh, I almost forgot! When you're ending a section, back track 3 complete stitches, and then forward again to lock the thread in place. Tie the ends off with a double granny, and tuck in the loose ends (I'd show you a pic, but I haven't got that far on this particular wheel yet )

I think I understand all but the last part about backing up 3 stitches. When you get to that point, I'd appreciate a pic.

Thanks for the explanation!

I hereby nominate this for the Classics section.

Hello, sorry for bringing back a old thread. Does anyone have more tips on the subject. I got an AGLA kit and seems like the thread was kinda thin, almost like a fish wire ? Is this right ? Second does anyone have more pics on the sewing process. I got lost over the pics previously posted.

Thanks in Advance.

Yeah... Google "Dallas Custom Steering Wheel"

I did one years ago. I'd say get a hammer and hit yourself on both knees. If you like that, you should go for it. If you didn't like the pain then send it out.

I restitched the original leather on my steering wheel this weekend. I thought I'd share a few details that I couldn't find beforehand.

I couldn't find waxed nylon thread but did find waxed cotton. it was a little thicker than the original (or what was left of the original). It feels great now.

Since I still had the old leather on I didn't bother with the stitching guide, I was able to just follow the impressions in the leather and figure it out. I believe it was a cross stitch.

The big sections took about 84 inches of thread and the small sections about 30. This was an original bow-tie steering wheel. Of course that's the amount of thread used, you need more for making the final pulls and tying the knot. I bought 9 yards. You absolutely do not want to run out of thread, so buy extra just to be sure. I used 2 curved needles. not sure why SpecialK felt that 1 needle was easier.

I'm embarrassed to say how many hours this took, at least 10. I'm glad I did it, but I will never do it again. The comment about hammering your knees makes a lot more sense now.

110%

Nice info! I need to get my Mazda 3 steering wheel recovered. POS is already faded at 40k miles.

I would buy the pre punched and cut kit even if you get better thread. I have always used two needles. I had a little trouble wearing the thread where the needles are pulling on it. I usually just watch tv while I'm working on it. I would rather do a steering wheel than scrape undercoating or sound deadening or remove rust, at least it's under ac.

Dallas just recovered a wheel for me and restored a horn pad as well. They do beautiul work.
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You can re-dye the leather if it is still in good condition.