Got this oil leak that drips on the exhaust and does smoke. I have the valve cover gaskets, and wonder if the pushrod tubes are hard to change or fix? This could be the problem also. I 'm wonder about the tubes because the oil leak seems to be getting worse. Thanks for you ideas. Larry .....

Replace the gaskets & tube seals.

QUOTE (lbreen @ Nov 6 2005, 01:02 PM)

Thanks for you ideas.

what side of the motor? new leak or something that has been around for a while? thermostat removed?

Andy

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Nov 6 2005, 02:08 PM)

QUOTE (lbreen @ Nov 6 2005, 01:02 PM) Thanks for you ideas. what side of the motor? new leak or something that has been around for a while? thermostat removed? Andy

andy - curious. what does thermostat removed impact oil leaks?

curious. may be my problem

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 6 2005, 02:10 PM)

andy - curious. what does thermostat removed impact oil leaks?

if you remove the thermostat and remove the pulley wheel as well and don't put a bolt back in that thread you'll have a nice oil-leak as the threads for that bolt go all the way *through* the case ...

Andy

PS: seen it more than once ...

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Nov 6 2005, 02:28 PM)

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 6 2005, 02:10 PM) andy - curious. what does thermostat removed impact oil leaks? if you remove the thermostat and remove the pulley wheel as well and don't put a bolt back in that thread you'll have a nice oil-leak as the threads for that bolt go all the way *through* the case ... Andy PS: seen it more than once ...

oh duh . nope. i have that bolt in.

i get a lil puddle of oil on my right side engine tin....leaks out the back and lands on the hot exhaust.

ive put a hose clamp at THAT head's breather....
cant figure it out....

I've got a case opened up here on my bench and the studs for the thermo dont go all the way through. I can see the cast indentation for the stud(s) inside the case below the flange that the windge tray attaches.

did different case's have different holes?

QUOTE (bottomend @ Nov 6 2005, 08:57 PM)

I've got a case opened up here on my bench and the studs for the thermo dont go all the way through.

the wheel, my friend. the wheel ...

Andy

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Nov 6 2005, 09:02 PM)

QUOTE (bottomend @ Nov 6 2005, 08:57 PM) I've got a  case opened up here on my bench and the studs for the thermo dont go all the way through. the wheel, my friend. the wheel ... Andy

the PIVOT for the PULLEY i thnk is a through bolt

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 6 2005, 09:03 PM)

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Nov 6 2005, 09:02 PM) QUOTE (bottomend @ Nov 6 2005, 08:57 PM) I've got a  case opened up here on my bench and the studs for the thermo dont go all the way through. the wheel, my friend. the wheel ... Andy the PIVOT for the PULLEY i thnk is a through bolt

isn't that what i just said ???

Andy

yes - im trying to iterate your point to jeff

Push rod tube seals are not hard to replace. You don't have to remove the engine--some tubes slide all the way out, while others only slide halfway out. Those, you replace the seals while the tube is hanging from the cylinder head bore.

The ugliest part is getting the rocker stands bolted down again. I find that I need to set the engine up to TDC for each cylinder to do that one cylinder, so both rocker arms have slack. The 10 lb-ft is very low, and if one valve is open the valve springs will keep the rocker shaft from even seating on the head by the time you get to 10 lb-ft! And it can be a chore to get the pushrods to seat in the cup in the end of the lifter. It's very doable, but sometimes it's difficult.

Swinging the torque wrench around in that very confined area is also a bit of a pain, but you really do not want to over-torque the rocker stand nuts.

--DD