Well, the 914 "was" going to be my new daily driver for sunny days...now with the twins on the way, a larger car will have to do.....
My father-in-law gave me a '75 Volvo 242 (2-door brick) that needs a new engine. Current motor is(was) a 140hp 2100cc four banger.
I'm going to need at least 200hp I think to make it somewhat enjoyable during my commute....
Popular choices for more hp are:
---Turbocharge existing engine (needs a rebuild)
---Install newer 4 banger Volvo turbo engine (probebly best choice for ease and most support)
--install 5 or 6 cylinder volvo from new generation cars...we have a turbo 5 cylinder (247hp) in my wifes volvo, but they are more difficult to install I believe.
---of course there is also the small block Ford or Chevy...both engines can be installed with kits ready to purchase.
---A new generation TDI Diesel GTi/Jetta engine seems neat, but I don't know what kind of performance people have been able to squeeze out of them.
Full Version: OT:Engine choice for my Volvo 242??
Subaru conversion.
I cant beleve it needs a rebuild. those engines run forever my son has had two and everything else fell apart but the motor was still good. How many miles does it have on the engine?
Bernie
Bernie
Get a replacement engine and turbo it a-la turbobricks. Leave the existing engine in until your new one comes off the dyno and is a weekend drop-in.
Check out the "pinky lifter" thread. There's a Volvo with a SBF w/picture.
Hey mike,
How about a nice low milage LS1 from a new camaro, all aluminum 350+hp and better milage than the volvo (mine gets 18 mpg - all stop and go). Small ford with a T-5 is the easiest swap by far.
I want a 75' wagon to drop a small ford into. If I could find one of these my whole "fleet" would be smog exempt.
PS Bricks don't have 140 hp stock more like 104 or 98.
How about a nice low milage LS1 from a new camaro, all aluminum 350+hp and better milage than the volvo (mine gets 18 mpg - all stop and go). Small ford with a T-5 is the easiest swap by far.
I want a 75' wagon to drop a small ford into. If I could find one of these my whole "fleet" would be smog exempt.
PS Bricks don't have 140 hp stock more like 104 or 98.
we have like 250k on our 86 GL wagon.
it didnt pass smog in o4 so it is resting....
id like to get it running and put a big motor in it also....
it didnt pass smog in o4 so it is resting....
id like to get it running and put a big motor in it also....
How about a type IV? 
Seriously though.. those cars are heavy.. drop in V8, upgrade the suspension and brakes, and have the ultimate sleeper. Get a vroom box and set it on "vespa scooter"
Seriously though.. those cars are heavy.. drop in V8, upgrade the suspension and brakes, and have the ultimate sleeper. Get a vroom box and set it on "vespa scooter"
| QUOTE (Mueller @ Nov 16 2005, 09:24 AM) |
| Well, the 914 "was" going to be my new daily driver for sunny days...now with the twins on the way, a larger car will have to do..... My father-in-law gave me a '75 Volvo 242 (2-door brick) that needs a new engine. Current motor is(was) a 140hp 2100cc four banger. I'm going to need at least 200hp I think to make it somewhat enjoyable during my commute.... Popular choices for more hp are: ---Turbocharge existing engine (needs a rebuild) ---Install newer 4 banger Volvo turbo engine (probebly best choice for ease and most support) --install 5 or 6 cylinder volvo from new generation cars...we have a turbo 5 cylinder (247hp) in my wifes volvo, but they are more difficult to install I believe. ---of course there is also the small block Ford or Chevy...both engines can be installed with kits ready to purchase. ---A new generation TDI Diesel GTi/Jetta engine seems neat, but I don't know what kind of performance people have been able to squeeze out of them. |
A 1975? Hardly worth the effort, Mike. I wouldn't even THINK of throwing bux at a 75. They have none of the development of the early 80s cars. There are a couple of companies making nice conversion kits, though. The original kit guy is all over SBFs, and the more recent market entry is all about SBCs. Both will tell you their engine choise is the only one you should consider, and are willing to swamp you with reasons. How about a nice Quantum syncro wagon with an I5 turbo? I just happen to have one in the works.
BTW, the 850 is FWD, the 240 is RWD, and I doubt you have the time, money, or inclination to do THAT swap! The Cap'n
| QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 16 2005, 01:39 PM) |
| A 1975? Hardly worth the effort, Mike. I wouldn't even THINK of throwing bux at a 75. They have none of the development of the early 80s cars. |
It's all about the pre-smog.. An SBC or SBF is a much better development than any of the stock 80s volvo developments.
Of course you COULD do an engine swap in a later one, but then you have to use an engine that's the same year or newer, and keep all the smog equipment, do extra paperwork, and you'll STILL have to smog it! That's all extra money that to me would make it no longer worth the trouble.
I had a 79 242 that I tricked out with IPD suspension and put a later Intercooled 242 Turbo motor. The acceloration of the early 242(light) body with the newer Intercooler Turbo was awsome and relyable as hell!
We have also gotten 310hp from a 242 motor with a later, modified head, side draft webbers and crank fire ignition. But it wont last as long!
PS: if you want development info on Volvos, I can put you in touch with "the man" He has been racing IT, GT2 and GT3 since I was in high school (now in my mid 40's)! All of them in a Volvo 242.
We have also gotten 310hp from a 242 motor with a later, modified head, side draft webbers and crank fire ignition. But it wont last as long!
PS: if you want development info on Volvos, I can put you in touch with "the man" He has been racing IT, GT2 and GT3 since I was in high school (now in my mid 40's)! All of them in a Volvo 242.
I put a ford 5.0 HO in our 83 245 about 10 years ago--it's been just about bullet-proof since then. PM me for additional details. If you decide to go SBC, "Jags That Run" had a book outlining that option . . . .
Also, you may want to check out the "turbobricks" site for instructions on turbocharging a normally aspirated Volvo engine. There's also a wealth of info at "brickboard.com"--check out both the RWD and V8 forums (fora?). Another good source for ideas is Dave Barton's 245 page--he's done some great stuff ("big-bore" 4 cyl turbo, T5 trans, custom-valved bilsteins, double rear sway bars, etc, etc).
If you go back to stock Volvo, the going rate for a running "red block" engine was around $250 in SE VA about a year ago.
Hope this helps
Also, you may want to check out the "turbobricks" site for instructions on turbocharging a normally aspirated Volvo engine. There's also a wealth of info at "brickboard.com"--check out both the RWD and V8 forums (fora?). Another good source for ideas is Dave Barton's 245 page--he's done some great stuff ("big-bore" 4 cyl turbo, T5 trans, custom-valved bilsteins, double rear sway bars, etc, etc).
If you go back to stock Volvo, the going rate for a running "red block" engine was around $250 in SE VA about a year ago.
Hope this helps
well......just bought an '85 B230FT engine w/120K (factory turbo'd 4 banger)...I found out the car is really a '76 so it'll have to be smogged, at least with the '85 motor it shouldn't be too hard to get it to pass with the LH fuel injection.....
who knows, by the time I get around to getting the car running '76 model cars will be smog exempt, hahahha
who knows, by the time I get around to getting the car running '76 model cars will be smog exempt, hahahha
www.vclassics.com
www.brickboard.com
www.ipdusa.com
Good luck.
www.brickboard.com
www.ipdusa.com
Good luck.
Mike,
Good luck with the motor. You should find plenty of tips on the various Volvo boards as already posted above.
Take a good look at the engine wiring harness--the swedes were using a "biodegradable" insulation around that time and it tends to flake away pretty badly. There are new (and "new used") harnesses available--may be a good idea to replace the harness while the engine is still out of the car.
Also, if you don't know the engine's history, a timing belt, front seals, etc, might be a good idea while the engine is still out . . . oh, and (while you're in there) a rear main seal too . . . .
Good luck with the "new" brick!
Good luck with the motor. You should find plenty of tips on the various Volvo boards as already posted above.
Take a good look at the engine wiring harness--the swedes were using a "biodegradable" insulation around that time and it tends to flake away pretty badly. There are new (and "new used") harnesses available--may be a good idea to replace the harness while the engine is still out of the car.
Also, if you don't know the engine's history, a timing belt, front seals, etc, might be a good idea while the engine is still out . . . oh, and (while you're in there) a rear main seal too . . . .
Good luck with the "new" brick!
| QUOTE |
| ake a good look at the engine wiring harness--the swedes were using a "biodegradable" insulation around that time and it tends to flake away pretty badly. There are new (and "new used") harnesses available--may be a good idea to replace the harness while the engine is still out of the car. |
thanks...I had a 1988 765 (same turbo motor) about 8 years ago that had the same crappy wiring..
great motor...a real tank.
If you think an old 914 leaks....the B230FT pisses oil.
Make sure while its out to change all the seals, get a new oil filler cap gasket at every tune up.
Clean and replace oil lines.
And volvo automatics need the fluid changed very often...
IPD sell a nice simple kits for this...
I would also say check your cam/valve clearances...
There is a rubber washer under the spacer that dries up and causes the valves to make alot of noise...
The fix is new cheap rubber washers...
It sucks to do this in the car...the dizzy is right against the firewall and the whole process is a pain...
While its out do all that, and any other work you want to do on the dizzy end of the motor...
There is a reason the hood can go straight up on a 7/9 series ...cause it needs to..
Rich
If you think an old 914 leaks....the B230FT pisses oil.
Make sure while its out to change all the seals, get a new oil filler cap gasket at every tune up.
Clean and replace oil lines.
And volvo automatics need the fluid changed very often...
IPD sell a nice simple kits for this...
I would also say check your cam/valve clearances...
There is a rubber washer under the spacer that dries up and causes the valves to make alot of noise...
The fix is new cheap rubber washers...
It sucks to do this in the car...the dizzy is right against the firewall and the whole process is a pain...
While its out do all that, and any other work you want to do on the dizzy end of the motor...
There is a reason the hood can go straight up on a 7/9 series ...cause it needs to..
Rich
so when is the LINK EFI kit coming for the volovo mike?
when is the dyno day?
do they make carbon fiber hoods for volvo 2 series?
when is the dyno day?
do they make carbon fiber hoods for volvo 2 series?
| QUOTE |
| do they make carbon fiber hoods for volvo 2 series? |
No experience with them, but they're out there . . .
Hey Mike,
Congrats on the twins ! I hope the twins and the Volvo don't distract you too much from the 914 world. I sure like seeing your, um, alternative ideas.
Jeff
Congrats on the twins ! I hope the twins and the Volvo don't distract you too much from the 914 world. I sure like seeing your, um, alternative ideas.
Jeff
Good luck with that engine swap.
Just picked up a 89 GL Wagon for cheap, great cruising car. It's a little low when there is a few inches of new snow on the roads.
That 4 banger in there seems like a great engine, I love all the room under the hood.
Just picked up a 89 GL Wagon for cheap, great cruising car. It's a little low when there is a few inches of new snow on the roads.
That 4 banger in there seems like a great engine, I love all the room under the hood.
Mike,
Add IPD Sway bars front and rear. Makes the handling from good to great!
That little car has GREAT suspension for a live axle car. 3 Point linkage, 2 trailing arms, 1 torque arm, and a Panhard bar. No axle hop at all and smooth almost neutral in the corners (I had an 87 wagon where the higher rear weight helped the handling balance).
Light weight car (low 3000lbs) and built very very stiff.
Problems... you've already been warned about the engine harness.. Fried 2 Mass Air Meters before I found the problem at $350 a pop.
Interior plastic is crap and rots in the sun. Swedes never learned how to engineer plastics as well as their American counterparts.
I would have kept my wagon if I didn't have the wiring problems. I was too pissed off by the time I was selling it to calm down when a potential buyer told me I could have fixed all this issue by spending $70 for a replacement harness.........
Turbobricks is a great resource.
Best price in parts I found to be in Groton CT (even after shipping).
http://www.fcpgroton.com/
I just unloaded a case of oil filters from my '86 240 on my brother who drives a '97 850... same MANN p/n.....
Add IPD Sway bars front and rear. Makes the handling from good to great!
That little car has GREAT suspension for a live axle car. 3 Point linkage, 2 trailing arms, 1 torque arm, and a Panhard bar. No axle hop at all and smooth almost neutral in the corners (I had an 87 wagon where the higher rear weight helped the handling balance).
Light weight car (low 3000lbs) and built very very stiff.
Problems... you've already been warned about the engine harness.. Fried 2 Mass Air Meters before I found the problem at $350 a pop.
Interior plastic is crap and rots in the sun. Swedes never learned how to engineer plastics as well as their American counterparts.
I would have kept my wagon if I didn't have the wiring problems. I was too pissed off by the time I was selling it to calm down when a potential buyer told me I could have fixed all this issue by spending $70 for a replacement harness.........
Turbobricks is a great resource.
Best price in parts I found to be in Groton CT (even after shipping).
http://www.fcpgroton.com/
I just unloaded a case of oil filters from my '86 240 on my brother who drives a '97 850... same MANN p/n.....
Michael,
One other thing to watch for . . . . you guessed it . . . .rust. The old 240s tend to rust from the inside out. Usually associated with a plugged ac drain tube, or a leak in the lower seam of the HVAC unit below the blower motor. The condensate from the ac gets under the carpet then goes to work on the floors, so you'll want to check them once in a while. I went overseas for a year and one of the rear footwells was just about gone when I got back.
And congratulations on the news of twins--you and yours need to rest up. Old proverb: one like none, two like ten.
One other thing to watch for . . . . you guessed it . . . .rust. The old 240s tend to rust from the inside out. Usually associated with a plugged ac drain tube, or a leak in the lower seam of the HVAC unit below the blower motor. The condensate from the ac gets under the carpet then goes to work on the floors, so you'll want to check them once in a while. I went overseas for a year and one of the rear footwells was just about gone when I got back.
And congratulations on the news of twins--you and yours need to rest up. Old proverb: one like none, two like ten.
*chant* Rotary! Rotary! Rotary! *end chant*
Congrats on the twins Mike. Out of curiosity wouldn't it be cheaper to sell the Volvo and buy a turbo model instead of doing a swap?
Jeff: Good proverb but my friends with triplets want to know how it applies to them.
Congrats on the twins Mike. Out of curiosity wouldn't it be cheaper to sell the Volvo and buy a turbo model instead of doing a swap?
Jeff: Good proverb but my friends with triplets want to know how it applies to them.
Too bad on not getting the exempt year but "oh well"... 
I was seriously considering the brick for a SBC conversion before the 914.
They have so many hi-po options.
also saw these links.
Note the stage III for around town...
http://www.mcbrooms.com/volvo/fast700.htm
http://www.turbobricks.org/mods.php
http://www.swedishbricks.net/faq/turbo.html
http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=48264
and a little sumthin sumpthin you may enjoy....
http://www.sdsefi.com
Did I hear, "Twins"???? Holy cow. Life as you know it will cease to exist.
"Thanks for all the fish".... I just saw Hitchhikers Guide for the first time last night.... GREAT!
Roger
I was seriously considering the brick for a SBC conversion before the 914.
They have so many hi-po options.
also saw these links.
Note the stage III for around town...
http://www.mcbrooms.com/volvo/fast700.htm
http://www.turbobricks.org/mods.php
http://www.swedishbricks.net/faq/turbo.html
http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=48264
and a little sumthin sumpthin you may enjoy....
http://www.sdsefi.com
Did I hear, "Twins"???? Holy cow. Life as you know it will cease to exist.
"Thanks for all the fish".... I just saw Hitchhikers Guide for the first time last night.... GREAT!
Roger
Call me crazy, but when my wife and I have a little one, I'm thinking about selling the E30 and doing a Volvo 740 wagon with an LT1/LS1, 5-speed, and FI.
If you're gonna haul ass, haul all you can...
I'd get a plate that said "HEMIBTR"
Of course, in reference to the Hemi Magnums...
Tom
If you're gonna haul ass, haul all you can...
I'd get a plate that said "HEMIBTR"
Of course, in reference to the Hemi Magnums...
Tom
| QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 16 2005, 01:39 PM) |
| BTW, the 850 is FWD, the 240 is RWD, and I doubt you have the time, money, or inclination to do THAT swap! The Cap'n |
hey John....
not that I've been looking into it or anything
but it appears that the transmission from a RWD 960 will bolt onto the FWD engines....or one could do what this guy did...this is a FWD 6 cylinder used in the S60 or S80s.... it's a Mustang Cobra 6-speed with new aluminum bellhousing
better view of bell housing adapter....
mike ,
From what I understand the weak link is the rear end design....
Look at replacing bearing etc back there or listen for some whining...
The mustang tranny is the less expensive way to go...
I have been thinking hard about the FWD /5 into a p1800.
Rich
From what I understand the weak link is the rear end design....
Look at replacing bearing etc back there or listen for some whining...
The mustang tranny is the less expensive way to go...
I have been thinking hard about the FWD /5 into a p1800.
Rich
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