Trying to put new brake hoses in car drivers side back is a ...... any help would be Oh yea some things may be out fo my ablity any one know any one how could help in the Portland Oregon area???

I love days off work...

An other pic

I replaced the fronts recently.

But the rears seem impossible with the motor in the car. Maybe someone else can help here, but I decided to wait till the next time I had the motor and tranny out.

Wow, you must be related to Sire Ahndie, the club mentor...your photos are more out of focus than his

tubing wrenches will help.

I have heard, but not attempted, that its achieveable if you remove the rain tray flex tubes (under the funnels, and go through the engine shelf tray hole with a 'crows foot' wrench. I think you use an extension on this wrench which looks like the end of an open box wrench with the handle cut off. Sears has them.

I removed my old ones by cutting them and then using a socket and braker bar... not that I could tell what you meant from your pictures

Got the hose off but the damm clip is stuck on like a
did some one notice that the pic's are Out of what?
Oh focuass...Point and shoot got to love them...

Thank's for the advise

OCT

This car will run again
Or ?

here is a pic OT

Grab clip with Vise-grips, pull, pry or beat on the grips with a hammer. If you had brakes I would invite you over and we could give it a go while on my lift. Lots easier when you are standing up.

Thats some balled up pic's. Probably a good way to never have any prompt you to

Vice grips as Jim says Or try a hammer & punch to inch the little blighter out. Alternatively try a flat blade screwdriver.

Where in PDX are you?

I went through this about a year ago. It took me 3 weeks (couple of hours per weekend) trying to get it done since I had a hard time sticking my hands in there, especially the driver's side. Once I got the right plan of attack, it took me 30 minutes to replace both rear hoses.

The trick for me (others may disagree) was to cut the hose as close to the junction as possible using a utility knife. Then I secured the top nut in place using an open end/brake wrench. Finally, I used a deep socket with a 3/8 ratchet drive and extension from the bottom, and it was out in no time flat.

Again, this is how *I* did it... other people have had great results with other tools.

Good luck!

C.

When all else fails, soak the clip with WD-40 or what every you like. I tap the end of the clip with a hammer to make sure it will move in either direction up or down. Leave clip in place UNTIL you break the fittings loose using metric flare nut wrenches. I you remove the clip it only makes it harder to break the hose from the solid line.

I did this a few months ago. I remove the clip from the top by inserting a long screw driver through the rain tray tube and pried the clip off.

I then applied some heat via propane torch from the bottom (carefully) of the car, directly to the nut on the hose. I used two open ended wrenches and the hoses came of in no time.

Dan

Sunday I will attack this problem with pic's .
Rough_Rider I am in gladstone ... Is there a club in pdx you know of?


OCT

Going to soak clips tonight if it's not to cold...

No club except Oregon PCA where a few of us autocross 914's.
You are only a short drive from Camp 914, very near Clackamas CC off Myers Road. If you're a 914 guy give Craig a call and drop in for a visit. You'll be welcome (and you might find some parts you need).

The pic was out of focus?? I better put the Guinness down. This would be a good time to start the Braided stainless or new rubber hose question. I will be putting the Batmobile up on Jacks to cure a variety of ills. One on the list is brake hoses. The hoses on look good, but should I take the opportunity to "make the change"?? an inquisitive but mechanically uninformed MSG L

If the rubber hoses are old looking, replace them. The deterioration is on the inside. They swell internally and restrict fluid flow, especially back out of the caliper, causing pads to stick. I am not a big fan of the stainless hoses. Not sure they are worth the extra $. The OE rubber last for a long time.

i did this. yes, driver side rear is a Pain In The Ass!!

i ended up having to replace the metal break lines from the T-junction. replaced both rear lines, thats what i recommend, just bend new ones, you dont need tube bender. you do, however, need to learn how to make buble flares tho (all the tools can be rented).

Sunday is comming ready for the big event with great pic's FYII I use to be a wedding photographer....